Battery power:

[billyx22]

Just one more thing.
As I mentioned much earlier I got this wheel off ebay cheap, new but cheap.
Just looking at the of wiring coming from the motor, it appears very thin, compared to even my cyclomatic 24v bike.
That includes the phase wires and the sensor wires, any thoughts?

This is just another question I have been wondering about.
What equipment would be required to test a motor/wheel to see if it even spins ........ also equipment needed to attach a controller etc, sort of like as seen on utube videos to have everything running but not attached to the bike, if you know what I mean?
It all looks very interesting.
Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You don't have to worry about the wires being too thin. They can carry upto 30 amps.

 

[billyx22]

Ok
What about when they connect to the controller, the wires on even that are thicker?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It's a different type of wire. The ones to the motor are high-grade PTFE insulated.

 

[billyx22]

Right thanks.
As to earlier.
Is there any way I can test this new wheel before I start paying out for parts to match it, just to see if it even turns.
I have my cyclomatic 24v bike could i use the battery from that just to test, bearing in mind what connections I would need.
Or any other way to test it.

 

[Alan Quay]

Right thanks.
As to earlier.
Is there any way I can test this new wheel before I start paying out for parts to match it, just to see if it even turns.
I have my cyclomatic 24v bike could i use the battery from that just to test, bearing in mind what connections I would need.
Or any other way to test it.

Not without a controller. The motor is not really DC, so you can't just hook up a battery to it an expect it to work. It won't.

Also, I think you are getting confused between a controller and a BMS (usually found within the battery).

Some batteries DO include a controller, but those will have many more than two wires.

Hope that helps.

 

[billyx22]

That does help yes, the DC part, thanks.
I have a controller, would I then be able to test with my24v battery on my bike, or would I need more parts?

I was not getting confused, just mistaken, I thought frog batteries had the controller in the casing with the battery, I was wrong.
Thanks again.

 

[freddofrog]

As it's a front electric wheel it will be easy to test. Get the donor bike that you want to put the wheel in, turn the bike upside down, and see if the new wheel fits. You might find that, although the wheel is the same size, the diameter of the axle might be slightly too big for the forks.

Assuming that the wheel diameter and axle diameter of the electric wheel are the same as the wheel being replaced, you can test the electric wheel in the donor bike upside down.

Connect the wires from the hub to the controller, as you described in #36, using the connectors if they fit, or any other way you fancy if they don't fit (remember, the bike isn't going anywhere because it's upside down LOL).

Then connect the battery to the controller, again any way you fancy (because the bike isn't going anywhere) but make sure you get the polarity correct.

Finally, if the controller has a connection for a throttle control, and if you have a throttle, connect the throttle. If you don't have a throttle then things will not be simple any longer, because you'll have to use the PAS sensor. You might be able to improvise some sort of rotation by hand.


That should do it. Summary
1. put wheel in donor bike with bike upside down. If everything fits, go to 2, if not, then stop.
2. connect the hub wires to the controller as you described in #36
3. connect a battery to the controller, but make sure you get the polarity correct
4. connect a throttle to the throttle inputs on the controller. If you don't have a throttle, use the PAS sensor.

 

[billyx22]

The controller has all those things yes, throttle etc.
I had thought of doing something like that to be honest but it's a front wheel motor my bike is rear wheel motor so no that will work.
That's why I was asking is there any way to test "off bike" I have another spare controller, 36v
Actually while i'm at it lol is there a way to test a controller "off bike"

 

[freddofrog]

The controller has all those things yes, throttle etc.
I had thought of doing something like that to be honest but it's a front wheel motor my bike is rear wheel motor so no that will work.
That's why I was asking is there any way to test "off bike" I have another spare controller, 36v
Actually while i'm at it lol is there a way to test a controller "off bike"

but hang on a minute, you want to test your new wheel, and it's a front wheel, so what's that got to do with you having a bike with a rear wheel motor ?

and the simplest and most practical way to test a wheel or a controller is by using both in a bike that's upside down

 

[billyx22]

Be kind.... I am still learning!
Right so if I disconnect the wires from my rear wheel in my bike controller,
put the new wheel on the front and connect the controller to that it should test it?

 

[freddofrog]

Be kind.... I am still learning!
Right so if I disconnect the wires from my rear wheel in my bike controller,
put the new wheel on the front and connect the controller to that it should test it?

yep, that is a very good idea !!

Earlier in this thread (or another thread) you did mention the idea of having both wheels powered, and the possibility of using one battery and one controller. You cannot use one controller on both wheels, and even one battery on two controllers is not a good idea, although it is possible.

So if that is the plan (i.e. you are fitting the new front wheel into an existing rear-wheel-powered ebike), then yes, to test the front wheel, you can connect the new front wheel into the existing controller and its battery ..without the rear wheel wired into the controller. But this is not a permanent solution, you will need another controller for the second wheel.

As I say, your biggest problem might be the diameter of the axle.

 

[billyx22]

Me...... I think not...... but I have been known tgo be wrong before lol
Power both wheels, i'm having trouble figuring out how to power one wheel!

All i intend doing is just to test the new wheel to see if it works, after that I can go about seeing what I battery and controller I need to go with it to put on another bike.......... easy right...for some.

 

[freddofrog]

ok, it was someone else then LOL ...I found it here http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/1-controller-operate-2-wheels.20741/

right let's get the facts correct
A. you have an e-bike at the moment with a rear wheel motor
B. it has a controller in it that works ?
C. it has a battery in it, what voltage is it?
D. you have a spare controller
E. you have bought a new front 36v wheel 9.5 amp 250 watt
F. you have another bike that you want to put it in (not the same as the bike A)

if the controller B works, then I would turn the bike A upside down (with its battery C), remove the front wheel, put the wheel E in the forks, then change the wiring from the rear wheel to the front wheel, then test the wheel using the throttle (with the bike still upside down)

if the controller B does not work, then I would turn the bike F upside down, remove the front wheel, put the wheel E in the forks, wire the controller D to the wheel, take the throttle and battery C from the bike A and connect them to the controller D which should be lying on the floor (making sure you observe the battery polarity), then test the wheel and controller using the throttle (with the bike still upside down)

 

[billyx22]

Nearly there with your help... I think.

My bike is 24v motor and battery.
What I was thinking in my madness is this...
Disconnect everything on my bike controller, just leave the battery and throttle connected.
Rest the wheel on something close to the battery, something that would let it spin for a few seconds.
Connect the wires from it to my controller and see if it spins, save changing wheels etc.
What you think about that, am I a genius or not!
I know you will say not but never mind, shows I am trying!

 

[flecc]

Don't do that, you could tear out the cables from the spindle centre. You have to anchor the wheel spindle firmly into frame or forks to ensure that doesn't happen.
.

 

[freddofrog]

is your 24V ebike still working ok ?

what size wheels are in the 24V ebike ?

what size wheels are in the other bike ?

what size is the 36V wheel that you've bought ?

 

[billyx22]

It works fine yes...why?
I am just attempting to put a 36v motor, battery, controller ebike together, only to see if it would work, more of a hobby project, no rush etc.


To flecc ok so I am not a genius and I won't do that lol

 

[freddofrog]

well you keep moving the goal posts

either
do you want to test the new wheel
or
do you want to get on with building the new ebike

 

[billyx22]

Sorry, i must be a right pain.
As I have said previously I bought the wheel new but cheap off ebay so before I go any further I just want to see if it works and am unclear how to go about that.