Battery power:

[freddofrog]

that's what I thought

so
1. turn the 24 V ebike upside down with its battery in it, but battery switched off
2. remove the front wheel from the forks
3. put the 36 V wheel in the forks
4. change the wiring from the rear wheel to the front wheel
5. turn the battery on
6. test the wheel using the throttle (with the bike still upside down)

 

[freddofrog]

^ note that if you cannot do that, then you won't be able to build the new ebike

 

[billyx22]

If I cannot do that, do you mean if I am not capable myself of doing that?

 

[freddofrog]

an interesting philosophical question LOL

what I mean is, you've bought a wheel but not as part of a kit, so things will not be "plug and play"

this means that if you want to test the wheel before doing anything else, and even if you went ahead and started the build, since you are unlikely to have matching connectors throughout the build, then you are going to be doing a lot of matching of colours and extending wire lengths, so testing the wheel in the existing bike (upside down) is going to be a basic test

 

[billyx22]

I know but at this point that's all I want.
Philosophy I will leave for another time, i'm busy using my brain on an ebike.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

One point that nobody seems to have picked up. I'm going ftom memory, but IIRC your motor has the flat hall connector, while as the Cyclomatic has a block type, so you'd have to make an adapter or adapt it somehow before you can test it.

Assuming you make the correct connector arrangement, to test it, you only have to take the side off the controller compartment, pull out the controller and swap the motor connectors over. Hold the axle in a strong pair of mole-grips and open the throttle gently. If you can make it spin slowly, it'll be OK.

If it's a 36v motor, ar 24v from your Cyclamatic, it'll spin at 2/3 its normal speed.

 

[billyx22]

Yes you are right and you also pointed it out a few posts back, I will also, if you recall said I would need to get an motor extension cable, so it's new connectors all round then when I get a battery and suitable controller would probably have to change them again.

Your idea about testing with controller motor connectors is a modified improvement on my own suggestion on the previous page.

So now, after a bit of thought I think it best to get a battery+controller+cable and see where I stand with connections then do it all at once.
Thanks.

 

[billyx22]

Could anyone tell me what this guy has done.
Some of you may already have watched it, I would just like to knowif what he has done would work, is it safe etc.
It's a bit long winded, if you watch from four minutes in to six minutes you will get the idea.

Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

He's added a lipo booster battery. Motor speed is proportional to voltage, so if you add a 2S battery in series with your existing 10S one, voltage goes fromm 36v to 44v and you get a 20% increase in speed and power. You only get the increase in maximum speed if your bike is not restricted by software.

The guy doesn't explain about the extra controls you need to monitor the battery. The low voltage control in the controller will be too low for the higher voltage battery, so you need to monitor it yourself, especially the lipos, because they will be ruined if they go too low.

The principle of a booster battery is simple: Find one of the wires from your battery to the controller, cut it and join some 14g wire to the ends, and run them up to a convenient position for your booster pack. Add a male and female connector so that they can be joined back together. Put matching connectors on a 2S booster pack so that you can connect it in or out.

 

[billyx22]

I must not have been paying attention.
I never heard him mention anything about booster packs.
Thought he had done something crazy by just adding more wires to the battery.

 

[freddofrog]

I must not have been paying attention.
I never heard him mention anything about booster packs.
Thought he had done something crazy by just adding more wires to the battery.

no he does mention a booster pack and he also says that the software in the controller had to be modded, but he doesn't spell it out as clearly as d8veh does

 

[billyx22]

You don't have to worry about the wires being too thin. They can carry upto 30 amps.

I have no intention of doing this but does that mean they could handle a souped up controller?
Have been doing a bit of reading on electricbike.com regarding souped up bikes, this caught my eye "one of the first steps is to replace the thin wires going into the motor with as thick of wire as you can manage to fit inside the axle"
Any comments... just trying to learn as I go...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You don't have to beef up the motor wires. IIRC, the only way to speed up a BH Emotion Neo is to replace the controller.

 

[billyx22]

I was talking generally, not about that specific bike.
Just as an example, if you had a 36v motor 250watt, 36v battery, what controller could get the most out of that setup... not for me just theoretical.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Most cooking 36v 250w ebikes have controllers around 14 or 15 amps. You can probably go to 48v and 18 amps as long as you don't have long steep hills.

 

[billyx22]

So is it the case that most of these mods that are done are purely for speed?
What if you wanted one specifically for hills, could a bike be made to do that or would it require a massive battery.

 

[flecc]

What if you wanted one specifically for hills, could a bike be made to do that or would it require a massive battery.

Yes, by increasing the controller current rating. In the case of a bike with a 36 volt 15 Amp controller, changing that to 36 volt 20 Amps would leave the speed unchanged but increase hill climbing capability. The battery would need to be able to deliver that 20 Amps current, but good 36 volt ones of 10 Ah or more can.

The limit on increasing the controller's Amperage capability is motor heat and long term reliability. A 30 Amp controller is possible, but very long hill climbs could result in serious motor overheating.
.

 

[billyx22]

So you would not modify an existing controller to get the 20 amps but rather buy one capable of 20 amps then use with your existing 36v 250 watt motor and 36v 10 ah battery, is that right, or can you modify a controller.

 

[flecc]

It wouldn't be worth trying to modify since new ones are not expensive.
.

 

[Nealh]

A shunt mod can be done to controller by adding some solder along one of the shunt legs which is about 25- 30% the mod can be verified by a watt meter if you want to be spot on, If you over cook it and blow it then you are back to buyng a new one.
Have a look in the search area for controller mods.