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battery charge

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I have a new battery 36 volt 15ah which will only take 39.5 volts when fully charged, this is measured at the output pins of the battery, have tried to charge more but charger shows green, charger output 42 volts.

anyone know what is wrong, I read that it should charge to 42 volts.

ROB

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BMS in the battery shut off possibly. Try to charge it overnight to see if it helps. If not, you might need to open the battery case to check each cell.

 

How old is the battery btw?

 

Pat

Could we have some details of what battery it is? A link would help.

I would check your meter is accurate before going further, I've been led astray by faulty measuring equipment in the past.

Apologies if you've done this already.

  • Author

information on battery : 36 volt 15 ah external fuse on handle,

Diamond Power LI-ION BATTERY

International Development Ltd

dpowercar@gmail.com

batteries 5 in a row blue colour with barcode 7 cm long

ROB

information on battery : 36 volt 15 ah external fuse on handle,

Diamond Power LI-ION BATTERY

International Development Ltd

dpowercar@gmail.com

batteries 5 in a row blue colour with barcode 7 cm long

ROB

if you want some help give us a 'kin link to the thing.

I think Dave means where did you buy it from, paste the link in so we can do a little investigation. Some pictures of the pack might help as well.

I would start by measuring the voltage from the battery and the charger with the same voltmeter. Please report the two results here.

 

Without a picture of the battery, it's very difficult to give you exact help, but the next test would be to measure the battery voltage at the charge socket.

  • Author

charger output 42.2 volts

battery output pins 39.1 volts

at battery charging socket 38.6 volts

ROB

OK, You now have to open the case, Remove the top (4 screws) and let it dangle while you look at the cell-pack. You need to locate the Multi-pin connector that joins the cell-pack to the BMS. Sometimes, it's there staring you in the face. Other times, its covered by heat-shrink. If you cut the heat-shrink in the four corners, you can peel it back. underneath is often a a square of GRP or cardboard stuck to the top of the BMS with double sided tape. The bond can be very strong so you might need some force to lever it off. Just be careful if you use a metal lever not to touch the BMS PCB to cause a short. Now the BMS should be exposed. It might be a PCB or a box.

If it's too far down to get access, you have to slide up the whole cell-pack, which means that you have to unscrew the bottom piece. Then you turn it sideways on, stand the pack on it and pull the case down. it should push the pack up through the case. you only need to move it an inch or so. Now you should be able unplug the 10, 11 or 12 pin connector and measure the individual cell voltages. Put your voltmeter probe on one end of the connector, and work your other probe along each position of the connector until you have 10 readings. They should increase in sreps of approximately 4v, i,e, 0v, 4v, 8v,......, 39.1v.

 

Please post the results here.

 

If you have any problems, or it doesn't work out like above. Please post a photo of where your problem is.

  • Author

is it attached to a ribbon type cable, if it is it has a type of steel plate thing screwed to it , similar to the brass studs you fix a motherboard to a computer case, can1t see any where to test yet .the ribbon type cable has,1 red wire, 9 white wires, and one black wire, if I pulled it off, it might be hard to get back on

ROB

Edited by robdon

Photos please!
  • Author

I will post a photo tomorrow, going to bed, I do not think I should do this when I am tired.

thank you for all your help

ROB

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