One of us did it to his HL battery last year. I took this picture for you. The socket is damaged here too but this time by a different route.
Batteries Charging Routine
- Thread starter Az.
- Start date
Of course you can short out the socket with any metal object that will fit in there. What's that got to do with a key? How does it follow that you can get a key in there because you can get a tiny screwdriver in?
They're your bikes and it's you that has to pay for the repairs and your customeres that are going to end up unhappy, and it's you that's going to have to explain to the authorities when one of your customers tells them, in the climate of ebike fire hysteria, that there was a massive flash and bang that might have set fire to their house when they pulled their charge jack out. It's not my problem. Do what you want.
I don't know why you think there will be a flash and bang when they pull the charging plug out. Where does that idea come from?
Accidents happen when people don't look where they put their key in and forget to close the socket cover after they finished with charging or they absentmindedly put the key in instead of the charging jack. They accept their mistake and there is no need to make it worse. There is no thermal runaway. They can't start a fire with this kind of accidents. There is no need for making it sound like a general occurence or an additional danger. There are not that many of this kind of acciendents in percentages, a couple a years per thousand users.
Batteries are very good since wide adoption of cylindrical cells and glued up packs. You can't harvest cells from them. The exceptions are those on the flimsy e-scooters and self balancing wheels because the stupidly low price they are selling them at leaves nothing for quality control.
Accidents happen when people don't look where they put their key in and forget to close the socket cover after they finished with charging or they absentmindedly put the key in instead of the charging jack. They accept their mistake and there is no need to make it worse. There is no thermal runaway. They can't start a fire with this kind of accidents. There is no need for making it sound like a general occurence or an additional danger. There are not that many of this kind of acciendents in percentages, a couple a years per thousand users.
Batteries are very good since wide adoption of cylindrical cells and glued up packs. You can't harvest cells from them. The exceptions are those on the flimsy e-scooters and self balancing wheels because the stupidly low price they are selling them at leaves nothing for quality control.
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I really don't like 5.5 mm jacks and sockets being used for this sort of thing. They are only ok for up to a few amps, so if anything goes wrong the result is not good. I am surprised there isn't a blocking diode on the charge port to stop this kind of thing. On an e-scooter I borrowed recently the 5.5 mm had a blocking diode so there was no voltage visible at the port.
It's true. I agree that there should be reverse current protection.
it's meant to run up to 2A-3A only.
People read instruction manuals?
As a friend in photographic retail used to add when showing a customer that all in the camera's box was complete:
"and this is the instruction manual you read after you've broken the camera".
His attempt to prevent that happening of course.
.
I know, but it doesn't give much margin for error. Good design 1) prevents people from doing something daft 2) builds in sufficient margin so if something bad happens the consequences are minimised.
These 5.5 mm plugs might be ok for small appliances like lap tops etc, but not for bike batteries. If I get a charger with such a connector, I cut it off and fit something better.
Jacks are easy to use. My HP laptop has a 19.5V 45W charger and uses a jack. The current is about the same but such accident would not happen because I don't have a key for my laptop.
An intelligent protection placed inside the BMS and the charger against reverse current is a better solution.
I already told you in many threads, whenever somebody mentions the procedure for charging. The charger must be switched on when you connect it to a live battery socket, otherwise you get inrush when the charger's capacitors charge up. The blade welds itself to the sleeve of the jack, only a little bit but that's enough. When you pull the jack out it pulls the blade onto the pin and you get massive sparks flying as the metal vapourises. Even if it doesn't weld, the inrush spark burns the blade and compromises the connection.
For years now, they don't spark anymore. I'll make a video to show you later.
Also, quality of connectors has improved over the year.
I have not seen a single damaged charging socket in normal use.
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My cheap 5 A charger review/mod is up now for those who are interested...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
5A 36V charger, evaluation and modding
If you have a larger pack (15 Ah or bigger), charging at 2A can take quite a long time. On some occasions this this can be far longer than desirable. So if you need to refill your pack a little quicker, what are the options for doing this in a safe way? 3A chargers are available and I have used...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
The 7.4mm diameter one with the thinnest central pin I have ever seen in a power jack.
@Woosh, this is the setup I am thinking of for moving my eBrompton battery\controller bag from a handlebar bag to one on the Brompton block;
Is there a plate or connector that could be fitted to that angled bracket to provide the connections for a Bosch power tool battery, they do a 36V 6Ahr one.
not that I know of but then again, I have not searched the net for it in the last two years.
This is my adapter which I 3D printed:
I was going to use a ready made charger box similar to yours but they wanted me to buy at least 500 pcs so I designed my own.
this is the Bosch tool battery adapter I was going to use until they told me MOQ is 500:
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