BAFANG BBSO2 MOTOR PROBLEM

[brianw]

If he connected series instead of parallel or if he connected with reverse polarity, the capacitor on the controller would blow - normally with a bit of a bang and some horrible smoke, so it's pretty obvious at the time. You should be able to see that when you take the controller off. The components are potted in silicon, but I think you'll still see and smell evidence of it.

Controller is the pod behind the chainwheel that's held on with three screws.
Thanks d8
I'll let you know when it's off

 

[brianw]

If he connected series instead of parallel or if he connected with reverse polarity, the capacitor on the controller would blow - normally with a bit of a bang and some horrible smoke, so it's pretty obvious at the time. You should be able to see that when you take the controller off. The components are potted in silicon, but I think you'll still see and smell evidence of it.

Controller is the pod behind the chainwheel that's held on with three screws.

Controller off, does'nt smell too fried
Have a look at these

If he connected series instead of parallel or if he connected with reverse polarity, the capacitor on the controller would blow - normally with a bit of a bang and some horrible smoke, so it's pretty obvious at the time. You should be able to see that when you take the controller off. The components are potted in silicon, but I think you'll still see and smell evidence of it.

Controller is the pod behind the chainwheel that's held on with three screws.

 

[brianw]

If he connected series instead of parallel or if he connected with reverse polarity, the capacitor on the controller would blow - normally with a bit of a bang and some horrible smoke, so it's pretty obvious at the time. You should be able to see that when you take the controller off. The components are potted in silicon, but I think you'll still see and smell evidence of it.

Controller is the pod behind the chainwheel that's held on with three screws.

If he connected series instead of parallel or if he connected with reverse polarity, the capacitor on the controller would blow - normally with a bit of a bang and some horrible smoke, so it's pretty obvious at the time. You should be able to see that when you take the controller off. The components are potted in silicon, but I think you'll still see and smell evidence of it.

Controller is the pod behind the chainwheel that's held on with three screws.

Controller off, does'nt smell too fried
Have a look at these

If he connected series instead of parallel or if he connected with reverse polarity, the capacitor on the controller would blow - normally with a bit of a bang and some horrible smoke, so it's pretty obvious at the time. You should be able to see that when you take the controller off. The components are potted in silicon, but I think you'll still see and smell evidence of it.

Controller is the pod behind the chainwheel that's held on with three screws.

 

[brianw]

 

[wheeliepete]

That capacitor dosn't look very well. (Black thing with green top). Looks like it has burst at the top, hence the brown mess around it.

 

[brianw]

Controller off, does'nt smell too fried
Have a look at these

trying to upload better pic

 

[wheeliepete]

Def. looking like overvolting is the cause of the failure. Nothing else would cause that damage except reverse polarity and it would also explain the blown LCD. Two 37v batteries in series = 74v POP!!

 

[brianw]

That capacitor dosn't look very well. (Black thing with green top). Looks like it has burst at the top, hence the brown mess around it.

The brown mess is oil
What's my next move?
Any point testing

 

[Nealh]

Replacement controller but will happen again if over volted or polarity isn't right.

 

[wheeliepete]

What's my next move?
Any point testing

I would carefully peel back the green label on the cap and check for damage. Then show it to the new owner and try to explain how this has occurred.
I think you have established what is damaged by your testing with your LCD and wiring harness, but it may be worth inspecting the motor for overheating damage before you buy a new controller and LCD.

 

[brianw]

I would carefully peel back the green label on the cap and check for damage. Then show it to the new owner and try to explain how this has occurred.
I think you have established what is damaged by your testing with your LCD and wiring harness, but it may be worth inspecting the motor for overheating damage before you buy a new controller and LCD.

Thanks
Could you see the white powder on the casing from my pic, it seems to be in a strange place if things have blown inside the green label.

 

[wheeliepete]

White powder is aluminium oxide caused by water/moisture ingress into casing, not enough to worry about.

 

[brianw]

White powder is aluminium oxide caused by water/moisture ingress into casing, not enough to worry about.

Morning Wheelie
Tried to remove motor housing but after extracting about 15 mm felt resistance, did'nt force any further
Any advice?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The brown oil is what's inside the capacitor. It comes out when they blow.

 

[brianw]

The brown oil is what's inside the capacitor. It comes out when they blow.

Any idea how much replacement controller is?
I've priced LCD at £60 so controller is likely £100 plus so not being sure motor is not fried as well, it is looking like a complete kit at £387 maybe safer way to go.
Would you agree?

 

[tommie]

Shouldn`t be that much, i know the BBS02 and HD controllers are around the £70 mark.

 

[Danidl]

The brown oil is what's inside the capacitor. It comes out when they blow.

You don't want to touch that with ungloved hands, if the capacitors are electrolytic, then this is basically caustic soda...

 

[anotherkiwi]

So far I have only let my GF ride the GSM powered bike back from the supermarket - it is all downhill. She keeps asking me "When can I ride it to work?" and I keep playing for time... Cadence is so important on mid drives you really need to be in the right gear on steep hills and I can imagine the sheer power of the BBSHD could lead someone to believe it can climb anything in top gear. Well it obviously can't...

I also think you are very brave selling LiPo packs to complete newbies. Do they have some R/C experience?

 

[brianw]

So far I have only let my GF ride the GSM powered bike back from the supermarket - it is all downhill. She keeps asking me "When can I ride it to work?" and I keep playing for time... Cadence is so important on mid drives you really need to be in the right gear on steep hills and I can imagine the sheer power of the BBSHD could lead someone to believe it can climb anything in top gear. Well it obviously can't...

I also think you are very brave selling LiPo packs to complete newbies. Do they have some R/C experience?

Yes with hindsight I did'nt emphasize the risk of making the wrong connections to multiple sets of batteries.
Charging with my GT Power is pretty fool proof if he does'nt short the batteries and they won't be on the bike.
But absolutely right about the cadence but in this case I don't think that did the damage

 

[Woosh]

... Cadence is so important on mid drives you really need to be in the right gear on steep hills and I can imagine the sheer power of the BBSHD could lead someone to believe it can climb anything in top gear. Well it obviously can't...

yes, it is a big point concerning not so much the BBS01 because it does not have huge power but totally when it is the BBS02 and the HD.