D
Deleted member 4366
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Yes, it looks like that box has the controller in it, but not much chance of finding out the amps from it.
Assistance required - Used powabyke
- Thread starter hopper_rider
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
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Unfortunately, that doesn't mean anything. By 7A battery, they mean 7AH. 200w is equally meaningless because the Powabyke Euro is also rated at 200w. It's a really good climber, and I believe it has a 20 amp controller. Your bike has the same motor. 20amps at 36v = about 750W - or at least 400w output power.
I think that if you want a lithium battery, that 12aH one above will be fine. You don't save much by getting a smaller one anyway, and I'm sure that an 8 or 9aH won't give enough current for your motor.
D8veh's probably right (usually is!) in recommending a beefy battery.
My missus has a powabyke x6, with a 250w brushed motor & it sucks some serious power from the battery going uphill: I replaced her battery with a 10ah flatpack from cyclezee (regarded as tough batteries) & even that sags significantly on a hill.
My missus has a powabyke x6, with a 250w brushed motor & it sucks some serious power from the battery going uphill: I replaced her battery with a 10ah flatpack from cyclezee (regarded as tough batteries) & even that sags significantly on a hill.
My initial request for help was in the hope that I may be able to get the powabyke working before my nephews birthday. A sort of thank you for all that he has helped me with in recent years. But I have been unwell and unable to do all the required testing.
My nephew suggested cheekily that maybe I may want to give him my bike instead. And that may actually be an option, which would leave me time to upgrade the powabyke in any manner necessary, or give it up as a bad job.
Anyway, thanks again and when I eventually do the testing I will post results.
My nephew suggested cheekily that maybe I may want to give him my bike instead. And that may actually be an option, which would leave me time to upgrade the powabyke in any manner necessary, or give it up as a bad job.
Anyway, thanks again and when I eventually do the testing I will post results.
My personal opinion is to replace the SLA batteries with like, it will be the cheapest option about £75 this will get the bike up and running and sometime in the future one can see if it would be worth replacing with a lithium battery upgrade
We replace led acid batteries and do not charge fitting (if done in store). We have done this for a number of people with bikes like PowaByke.
Ok peeps,
Stage 2...........
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/attachments/announcements-feedback-support/5151d1361814156-assistance-required-used-powabyke-batteries-case.jpg
I havent done any testing with lightbulbs or anything. All I have done so far is to test with a multimeter. Give me a break. I had to work out what all the symbols meant first.
Readings are based on the batteries in case image. Left to right, top to bottom
12.50
10.42
6.07
5.17
Out of those I believe that the only acceptable one is the 12.50 reading. Am I correct?
Stage 2...........
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/attachments/announcements-feedback-support/5151d1361814156-assistance-required-used-powabyke-batteries-case.jpg
I havent done any testing with lightbulbs or anything. All I have done so far is to test with a multimeter. Give me a break. I had to work out what all the symbols meant first.
Readings are based on the batteries in case image. Left to right, top to bottom
12.50
10.42
6.07
5.17
Out of those I believe that the only acceptable one is the 12.50 reading. Am I correct?
I think I will try charging those two with the ctek type charger to see if they can be recovered.
Crossed fingers and all that
Crossed fingers and all that
You will need to repeat the process again, and take it out for a ride to put some loading on the batteries before you recheck
Sounds fair. Will do, My nephew is coming round in the next few days. Gives me a chance to charge them all with the CTEK to hopefully rectify the situation. But if not, at least to narrow the area of fault.
If they apparently charge okay, then a local ride would give an opportunity to test charge holding power.
Oh, as an extra. I opened the controller box. There is a label in there that I think reads Oct 2000. So if thats right we are talking of an OLD model bike.
Doesnt mean that the batteries are that age, but...........
Doesnt mean that the batteries are that age, but...........
What is it that could make it more powerful? Have you upgraded it to its limits or is there something else you could have done that would have made it better?
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Those voltages don't look promising. Was that after charging or after riding?
It doesn't normally make sense to replace the worst ones anyway. It would be best to replace the whole lot.
There's quite a few mail order suppliers offering exact replacements at various prices, so now you have to decide whether you want lead or lithium. A lithium one will be about £200.
It doesn't normally make sense to replace the worst ones anyway. It would be best to replace the whole lot.
There's quite a few mail order suppliers offering exact replacements at various prices, so now you have to decide whether you want lead or lithium. A lithium one will be about £200.
Maybe this article will give you some insight into the differences between Lithium v SLA
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Re: SLA vs. Lithium battery?
by Chris Clean Republic » Tue Aug 02, 2011 10:20 am
Glad to hear that your seriously considering getting our kit.
I would say that this decision is really up to you and your needs, but here are a few things to consider.
Weight: The SLA battery weighs 11lbs versus the 6lb Lithium battery. The SLA battery isn't massive, but there is a little bit of weight that you will have to adjust for when you pedal your bike without the motor engaged. It's not as big of a difference as one might imagine. 11lbs is about the same as a bag of groceries. You would barely notice the 6lbs of the Lithium battery.
Range: The biggest advantage of the Lithium is it's 20 mile range over the 10 miles you get with the SLA. The more hills and rough terrain you add to your commute, the more a longer ranger battery becomes more useful.
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