Are all bikes fragile?

On my way home today I snapped another seatpost, that makes 2 seatposts, 1 seat tube and about 6 saddles so far. There aren't many bits of bikes that I haven't broken, the only bit I can think of that's always survived (but has come off when riding) are the handlebars.

These bits have come from several manufacturers and I've broken my spare bikes as well as my pedelecs, is it just me or are bikes not intended for intensive use?

Fortunately most bits are fairly cheap and easy to replace on bikes so it doesn't put me off.

Well....

The only replies I can think of are rude, so I'll keep quiet - but I bet I'll not be the only one to be sorely tempted!

Rog.

I'm not tempted and i'll try a sensible question and answer. :0)

Are the broken bits aluminium? if so, can you replace them with steel?

Fortunately most bits are fairly cheap

There's your problem.

Cheap bikes break.

I'm not tempted and i'll try a sensible question and answer. :0)

Are the broken bits aluminium? if so, can you replace them with steel?

Cheap steel will break more often than good quality aluminium.

You get what you pay for.

Golden rule:-

Build something fast and to a high standard, but then it will not be cheap.

Build something fast and cheaply, but it will not be of high quality.

Build something with high quality and cheaply, but it will not be fast.

Edited January 4, 201214 yr by amigafan2003

I've never suffered any breakages of bike parts but that may be due to being fairly light, under 70 kilos max.

I have suffered high wear on certain bikes, one in particular with seemingly very soft bearings throughout and transmission to match. I threw it away at two years old.

My bikes taking a beating lately. Not broken anything yet. Apart from the cheap front forks that are now shot.

Usual wear and tear. I go through brake pads quickly but I can say the bike thought winter is wearing it out fast.

I have been cycling for 40+ years, apart from spokes I have only had one breakage which was an early SR crank whilst taking part in a hill climb. The only seatpost I have seen break was in a cyclo-cross event. Very nasty it went through the riders thigh.

Buy quality it pays off in the long run!

It’s my work, he’d say, and I do it for pay

And when it’s over I’d just as soon go on my way

Up to some paradise

Where the trout streams flow and the air is nice

Isn't that the story of Hurricane, the man the authorities came to blame for something that he never done, put him in a prison cell but one time he could'a been the champion of the world?

Reality check!.

Mussels started off in 2008 as a long distance commuter on poorly maintained roads. His first machine was a 26" wheeled 'one-size-fits-all' Wisper 905se. This machine was a bit too small for him, as he prefers an almost straight leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke. As a result, he had to extend his seat-post to it's absolute limit....and the seat-tube succumbed. Mussels then upgraded to the 700c wheeled Alpino which better suited his 'high' riding style.

As a matter of interest, just the other day I had to remove the battery from a 906 Alpino. I have to say I was surprised how massive the top of the seat-tube is on this machine. I haven't the foggiest idea how that seat-tube is manufactured, it has a 2mm wall thickness at the pinch-bolt point, which appears to extend well below the top-tube/seat-stay weld point.

It appears that Mussels now needs to find a seat-post that compliments the increased strength of the Wisper 906 Alpino seat-tube.

Regarding the "handlebars fell off". All current Wisper adjustible ahead stems are fitted with a safety lock to prevent this occuring.

In all fairness, as one would expect with a regular long distance commuter like Mussels, any machine he rides is going to be subjected to stresses that us fair-weather leisure riders will never inflict on any machine. Little wonder that Wisper Bikes chose Mussels as their 'Beta-tester' of the Alpino version.

Note to Mussels: Please don't read this the wrong way, you have quite likely been instrumental in many of the improvements to Wisper machines over the past three years.

Well....

 

The only replies I can think of are rude, so I'll keep quiet - but I bet I'll not be the only one to be sorely tempted!

 

Rog.

I'm no jockey but certainly under 90kg.

I'm not tempted and i'll try a sensible question and answer. :0)

Are the broken bits aluminium? if so, can you replace them with steel?

Normally I'd agree but the steel seat post on my wife's bike weighs a lot, it feels almost like lifting a dumbell bar.

There's your problem.

 

Cheap bikes break.

 

 

 

 

Cheap steel will break more often than good quality aluminium.

 

You get what you pay for.

 

Golden rule:-

 

Build something fast and to a high standard, but then it will not be cheap.

Build something fast and cheaply, but it will not be of high quality.

Build something with high quality and cheaply, but it will not be fast.

I don't buy everything cheap but certainly cost is important when I'm buying parts, I break expensive bits as well.

Mussels started off in 2008 as a long distance commuter on poorly maintained roads. His first machine was a 26" wheeled 'one-size-fits-all' Wisper 905se. This machine was a bit too small for him, as he prefers an almost straight leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke. As a result, he had to extend his seat-post to it's absolute limit....and the seat-tube succumbed. Mussels then upgraded to the 700c wheeled Alpino which better suited his 'high' riding style.

 

As a matter of interest, just the other day I had to remove the battery from a 906 Alpino. I have to say I was surprised how massive the top of the seat-tube is on this machine. I haven't the foggiest idea how that seat-tube is manufactured, it has a 2mm wall thickness at the pinch-bolt point, which appears to extend well below the top-tube/seat-stay weld point.

 

It appears that Mussels now needs to find a seat-post that compliments the increased strength of the Wisper 906 Alpino seat-tube.

 

Regarding the "handlebars fell off". All current Wisper adjustible ahead stems are fitted with a safety lock to prevent this occuring.

 

In all fairness, as one would expect with a regular long distance commuter like Mussels, any machine he rides is going to be subjected to stresses that us fair-weather leisure riders will never inflict on any machine. Little wonder that Wisper Bikes chose Mussels as their 'Beta-tester' of the Alpino version.

 

Note to Mussels: Please don't read this the wrong way, you have quite likely been instrumental in many of the improvements to Wisper machines over the past three years.

I deliberately left off my mileage because I didn't want people to assume that was the reason and not comment, I also left it off because I don't think it's excessive and there are a fair few cyclists who ride further. The roads are poorly maintained but only like any city roads, I'm not riding through woodland or down farm tracks.

I also deliberately didn't mention Wisper as it would give the wrong impression that their parts are below standard, they aren't (now) and I've broken plenty of non-Wisper bits.

After the seat tube broke on the 905 I got a 400mm seat post so I wasn't using it at the maximum mark, IMO the short seat tube coupled with a 300mm seat post is a problem waiting to happen for anyone with a 32" inside leg or more. Unfortunately I guess they are all prone to work hardening and will go at some point, on that point would steel be any better? I ask as I want to get a seat post with more set back and this will put more strain on that area.

The handlebar problem was the clamp on the stem that grips the fork in the head tube, it needed doing up a bit tighter. I was going slowly but still got some interesting emotions when I realised I had no steering input.

I think Wisper is 27.2mm seat posts, can anyone confirm that?

Bullet Proof bike

Morning

It is possible to buy a near bullet proof commuter bike (probrably not possible to buy a bullet proof mountain bike if you are into the really crazy stuff)

Having gone thorugh many bikes over the years I've now got a On-one Pompetamine. Its solid cro-mo steel and it runs on Alfine 8 hub gears (they now have the 11 gear version as wel)l. I use one 700c schwalbe marathon plus tire on the hub and a much lighter conti speedking on the front. Finish with a Ti seatpost and a brooks saddle

The bike is 1.5 years old and takes me the 5 miles to work and back. It is utterly bullet proof having never so much as missed a gear in everything from snow, mud, rain and horredous winds that Brighton has to offer. It sure aint no lightwieght though !

I think it would make an excellent bike for a daahub conversion......when they are available. The rear Alfine hub, centre mounted battery and front daahub would be ideal weight distribution

Having gone thorugh many bikes over the years I've now got a On-one Pompetamine. Its solid cro-mo steel and it runs on Alfine 8 hub gears

ooh, a bike that really takes my fancy, I'm rather fond of steel bikes. Got any photos?

http://www.on-one.co.uk/imgs/products/900x650_constWH/CBOOPOMPALF_P2.jpg

With regard to breaking things, you tend to get what you pay for, and at the end of the day Wisper bikes are still of Chinese origin using budget none-branded parts, or they were the last time I looked.

Nice looking bike, is that belt drive ?

I notice in the winter my Brompton really needs checking most weeks to make sure I don't have any unexpected break downs. I don't really mind as I love to fettle (my new favourite word) with my bikes. Usually its just a quick wash down with the hose pipe and checking tyre pressures but this often leads me to finding some lose bolt or something which needs sorting. Mostly my commute is then trouble free.

Over two years of commuting and 3000 miles and the Brompton has held up well. Wear and tear would probably be much worse in the winter if I did not clean the bike every couple of weeks or so though.

If I was using a full sized bike I might consider one of these, also belt drive with an 8 speed enclosed hub.

http://www.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/2b3/a51/5e3/36620/large/trek-soho-2009-hybrid-bike.jpg

Its a Trek Soho and current prices (around £500-£600) are not bad considering they were touching £1000 when they first came out.

Regards

Jerry

Edited January 5, 201214 yr by jerrysimon

With regard to breaking things, you tend to get what you pay for, and at the end of the day Wisper bikes are still of Chinese origin using budget none-branded parts, or they were the last time I looked.

I break expensive branded parts as well as cheap ones, I think part of my problem is riding with hard tyres which transfers more shock to the frame. The most troublesome part of my bike is the back wheel which is a Rhyno rim on an Alfine hub and built by SJS.

Most bike parts are made in China, Taiwan and other far eastern countries.

Most are designed elsewhere though.

But product remains in the far east. I too am killing my bike though.

Currently these need repairing...

Front Forks

Front Steering head Bearing

Suspension seat is forever having more play in it

Motor needs an overhaul

I've broken...

1 x Rear Wheel

1 x Rim

4 x spokes

I'm waiting for the forks to snap on me or something else to go.

Downhilling bikes are starting to look good at the moment...

I am going to ride mine into the ground and get the full £150 i paid for it out of it.

With regard to breaking things, you tend to get what you pay for, and at the end of the day Wisper bikes are still of Chinese origin using budget none-branded parts, or they were the last time I looked.

Hi Artsu, it may be worth having anther look, on our low price bikes are certainly using many non branded parts but all have been certified to the rigorous EN15194 which includes EN14764, City and trekking bicycles –– Safety requirements. The higher end bikes such as the new SEL and Alpino are built using almost all branded components.

The bikes are still built in China, as are most high end electronic and engineering components. It's not the Chinese factories that are at fault it is the buyer who wants to purchase cheap Chinese products. We have often looked at building in Europe and even the UK but the truth is that most components come from Asia so logistics are more manageable and Shanghai is positioned extremely well for world wide distribution.

All the best

David

:

I think Wisper is 27.2mm seat posts, can anyone confirm that?

Yes Andrew 27.2mm is correct, although we utilise 30.4mm on our folding bikes as the post is much longer than on the 7 and 9 series bikes.

All the best

David

I'm looking for strength the whole 'get what you pay for' idea is rubbish.

Yes I actually agree we you. I've had a fair bit of exposure to cheap chinese motorcycle parts, and in my limited experience it has always been the quality of the actual material that has been below par, aluminium that is more akin to cheese. Crankshafts that simply snap in two, gear teeth that snap off etc etc.

and yes with branded parts you can be paying a lot just for the name, finding quality parts without the B\S imagine is what you want. I wonder if any of the super strong track components will suit your bike? Guessing your bike is Aluminium? a steel bike would lesson the forces your breaking components experience I would think.

After the seat tube broke on the 905 I got a 400mm seat post so I wasn't using it at the maximum mark, IMO the short seat tube coupled with a 300mm seat post is a problem waiting to happen for anyone with a 32" inside leg or more. Unfortunately I guess they are all prone to work hardening and will go at some point, on that point would steel be any better? I ask as I want to get a seat post with more set back and this will put more strain on that area.

Mussles

As someone who also had a 905 with a broken seat tube and now has to ride with a very low saddle to make sure it doesn't happen again, what 400mm seat post did you get?

I broke one of the cro-mo tubes on my saddle.

a. There were no springs in the saddle so all my weight went down on it over bumps.

b. My replacement saddle has springs and solid drawn steel rods not tubes.

Yes I actually agree we you. I've had a fair bit of exposure to cheap chinese motorcycle parts, and in my limited experience it has always been the quality of the actual material that has been below par, aluminium that is more akin to cheese. Crankshafts that simply snap in two, gear teeth that snap off etc etc.

 

and yes with branded parts you can be paying a lot just for the name, finding quality parts without the B\S imagine is what you want. I wonder if any of the super strong track components will suit your bike? Guessing your bike is Aluminium? a steel bike would lesson the forces your breaking components experience I would think.

I have a steel frame Dawes road bike and like it, I wouldn't mind a steel framed ebike but I'd need to do a kit build for that (the on.one bike looks good for it). Maybe next time I want a new bike I'll go down that route.

I think it's wrong to think of all Chinese parts as substandard, many top quality products are made there. The more expensive ones tend to hide the fact they are made in China which doesn't help the reputation.

Mussles

 

As someone who also had a 905 with a broken seat tube and now has to ride with a very low saddle to make sure it doesn't happen again, what 400mm seat post did you get?

I got it in Cycle Surgery but can't find it on their website. This time I'm going to get one of these which at 350mm is still enough for me, the 906 had the same length seat tube so has the same problem with a 300mm post being a bit short.

Easton EA30 Seatpost 2010 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

Edit: I won't be buying that as they are out of stock.

Edit2: I can't find exactly what I want within my budget (£35) so I've reserved one of these so I can at least use it and then look for the ideal one at leisure.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_250198_langId_-1_categoryId_230509

I broke one of the cro-mo tubes on my saddle.

a. There were no springs in the saddle so all my weight went down on it over bumps.

b. My replacement saddle has springs and solid drawn steel rods not tubes.

I get through a few saddles and it's usually the rails that break, the branded San Marco saddle I have now has bucked that trend as the saddle cover has split fairly quickly, at least I can fix that with Duck tape.

Edited January 5, 201214 yr by Mussels

A Thorn Raven Nomad, unbreakable? Probably. Ripe for a conversion, now which kit??

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vPrzm9N/0/X2/i-vPrzm9N-X2.jpg