Alien GS II problem

[rustic]

It's not moving! At first (yesterday) I assumed it was that the battery had gone flat, however having fully charged it, it's still much the same.

All three lights are showing on the handlebar, but when the throttle is twisted there is a delayed reaction before the motor turns, this is also intermittent and not strong enough to move tyhe bike (or me). When I do twist the throttle the three lights do flicker & drop.

Anything obvious that could be causing this?

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

I have tried contacting Alien, but I would imagine they will not be back til Monday.

Thanks. Rus.

 

[Stumpi]

Far from an expect here but have you done the spindle nuts up too tight?

 

[rustic]

Hi Stumpi,

The simple answer is that I haven't touched them. In fact, I can't think of anything I've done to it since Wednesday when it was working absolutely fine.

I'm perplexed! Rus.

 

[flecc]

Poor battery connections can do this. Try unplugging the battery and replugging it a couple of times. If not, a poor wiring connection from the battery onwards is the next most likely.
.

 

[NRG]

...also check the connector on the front forks.

 

[rustic]

Thanks Flecc / NRG,

I think you're right, it would seem to be a loose connection somewhere. I tried a few things including giving the prongs coming out of the motor a squeeze where they connect with the battery. It sprang back to life for a while before dying again!

I tried the same again & it is now back to normal..... Problem at least temporarily solved, thanks chaps

 

[flecc]

It might help to clean all the contacts with some solvent to get rid of any grease or pollution Rustic.
.

 

[rustic]

It might help to clean all the contacts with some solvent to get rid of any grease or pollution Rustic.
.

ok Flecc, will do. Would thinners do the trick?

I've just taken it out for a test & it rode ok, so hopefully the fiddling with the battery prongs has done the trick.

Many thanks. I'm appreciative of this site once again. Rus.

 

[NRG]

Deoxit D5 is probably one of the best contact cleaners and contact treatment sprays you can get. Well worth getting a can and spraying all contacts once in a while:

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[rustic]

Having temporarily solved the problem I went to use the bike today & it wouldn't move again. I've checked over all the wires this morning & spotted blue & red wires sticking out / coming loose from the middle inlet of the left handlebar unit (see pics). I have no idea whether this is the cause of the problem, but would value any suggestions.

 

[rog_london]

Having temporarily solved the problem I went to use the bike today & it wouldn't move again. I've checked over all the wires this morning & spotted blue & red wires sticking out / coming loose from the middle inlet of the left handlebar unit (see pics). I have no idea whether this is the cause of the problem, but would value any suggestions.

Your pics tell the whole story - those could only be the brake cutoff switch wires, and even knowing absolutely nothing about your bike I'd say pretty well for certain that those being pulled out would be the cause of your problem. Their purpose is to signal the controller to cut the power when the brake is applied.

Rog.

 

[flecc]

This could be the problem Rus, the brake cutout operating. These can be either "make" to cut out or "break" to cut out the motor. I'm not familiar with your brake lever type, but you may be able to remove the cutout unit from the lever to check it's cable connections. Flicking the lever a few times may get it to work again which will prove that's the cause.

N.B. Crossed with Rog's post.
.

 

[rustic]

This could be the problem Rus, the brake cutout operating. These can be either "make" to cut out or "break" to cut out the motor. I'm not familiar with your brake lever type, but you may be able to remove the cutout unit from the lever to check it's cable connections. Flicking the lever a few times may get it to work again which will prove that's the cause.

N.B. Crossed with Rog's post.
.

Thanks both.

So Is it that there is a cut out unit on both the rear brake as well as the front brake?

Assuming that this is the cause of the problem I'm struggling to address it. Getting access to reconnect the wires is very difficult. I would imagine that the handle grip would need to come off in order for the brake lever to slide off the handlebar to make access possible, but the handle grip feels like it's been superglued on! is there a knack to this, or a simpler solution that I have not considered?

 

[rog_london]

Thanks both.

So Is it that there is a cut out unit on both the rear brake as well as the front brake?

Assuming that this is the cause of the problem I'm struggling to address it. Getting access to reconnect the wires is very difficult. I would imagine that the handle grip would need to come off in order for the brake lever to slide off the handlebar to make access possible, but the handle grip feels like it's been superglued on! is there a knack to this, or a simpler solution that I have not considered?

There may be cutouts on either or both. It varies from bike to bike. A 'quick fix' would be to just join the two cutout wires together which should restore normal operation except, of course, that brake switch will no longer work.

As Flecc mentioned, on some systems the brake switch makes the circuit to cut the power, on others it breaks the circuit to cut the power. Yours sounds like the latter, as otherwise the bike would still work with the wires disconnected.

It looks as though the wires on yours are tight in the loom, and will keep pulling out in the future as you turn the handlebars.

Rog.

 

[flecc]

The cutout switches are usually on both levers, but it's probably only this one giving the trouble. Either one can cut out the motor when the lever is operated.

One trick to get the rubber grip off that can work is to insert a long thin screwdriver through the hole in the end and work it up in between the grip and handlebar. When all the way in, rotating the screwdriver can wind it around the bar and free the grip of the rubber on the bar. Introducing some water into the interface can speed this up.

If it comes to the worst and the grip can't be saved, it can be replaced of course, bike shops keep various patterns in stock.

N.B. Crossed with Rog's post again. Never mind, second opinions are always good.
.

 

[rustic]

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried connecting the red & the blue wires Rog & it actually cut the power entirely.

When the wires are totally removed and the throttle is applied the front wheel will turn, sometimes at full power, sometimes intermittently. On the later occasions I have squeezed the rear brake lever a few times and normal service is generally resumed,

I will try your suggestion with the handlebar grip Flecc.

Thanks again.

 

[neilmeansneil]

The wires also pulled out of the cutout switch on my GS2 but didn't affect the running of the bike. So if the wire ends are touching then that would operate the cutout.
Replaced my grips with Ergon items designed for gripshift, i just cut along the old grips to remove, they were too small and hard for my hands

 

[rustic]

The wires also pulled out of the cutout switch on my GS2 but didn't affect the running of the bike. So if the wire ends are touching then that would operate the cutout.
Replaced my grips with Ergon items designed for gripshift, i just cut along the old grips to remove, they were too small and hard for my hands

Hi Neil,

Certainly when I press the 2 exposed wires together the motor does not turn, when they are apart the motor runs as per normal, or runs intermittently / slowly with a delayed reaction before starting.

Did you manage to reconnect yours after it came out?

There doesn't appear tobe much give, a hard left turn on the handlebars & it puts pressure on the cabling.

Thanks.

 

[neilmeansneil]

Haven't had a proper go at reconnection, from initial look it seemed very difficult. I'll probably connect the wires to a spare light switch either as a kill switch or see if I can rewire at the other end into the pedelec circuit so I can switch that off independently.
Only other weakness in the power circuit on main was the front block connector for the motor which I taped up to keep water out, oh and the front light connection.
Recommend the ergon grips though, really take the pressure off your hands.

 

[Old Timer]

you can purchase new brake levers with micro switch quite cheaply on E bay.Not really worth messing about with.


So, with the wires disconnected and kept apart does the bike run properly?