Agattu first impressions

[flecc]

Yes, mine had the three position with auto in the centre. Ironically I prefer to just switch on and off only, as the auto is inclined to come on at all sorts of times when the daylight is dimmed for some reason, like wheeling it into a garage. I know it's only the standlight then, but it still irritated me. Guess I'm just a control freak at heart.
.

 

[tgame]

Yes, mine had the three position with auto in the centre. Ironically I prefer to just switch on and off only, as the auto is inclined to come on at all sorts of times when the daylight is dimmed for some reason, like wheeling it into a garage. I know it's only the standlight then, but it still irritated me. Guess I'm just a control freak at heart.
.

I have a feeling that I too prefer this so I'm lucky. It isn't in any sense a faulty switch as the two positions are marked on and off beside the switch.

It's a far cry from my first dynamo proudly owned just after the war - a Sunbeam I remember. It took me about half an hour to get the front off the first time the bulb went. The auto voltage system was so good that the bulb went once a night ride as regularly as clockwork!

What was your first lighting sytem, Flecc? Can you remember?

 

[flecc]

Yes, the usual standard Ever Ready battery bike lights. Can't remember the battery number of the front one, but it was two cells side by side with brass strip contacts, and a screw-in knob on top to make contact. The rear one used the forerunner of the D cell, then called U2, and to switch that on the lens end of the body was screwed inwards onto the other, then bringing the bulb tip into contact with the battery. Many a journey ended with the discovery that the rear one had been off for goodness knows how long.

Awful things that rusted and would go out at the most awkward moments. Similar types shown below. There were hub dynos around with huge drag, and the bottle dynamos were as bad.

Front lamp, Rear lamp.

Bike lighting was not a strong point of 1946.
.

 

[Citrus]

What was your first lighting sytem, Flecc? Can you remember?

A candle?

As an aside Tony, the dynamo on my Agattu has 3 positions - top=on, middle=auto, bottom=off

 

[flecc]

A candle?

Actually I did own an acetylene headlamp at one time in my motor trade days, one step up from a candle.

Prior to 1946 there was no need to have lights of course, strongly discouraged by the authorities during WW2 as they'd be spotted by enemy aircraft. Headlamps were blanked off, leaving only a small glimmer showing at the bottom of the lens.
.

 

[tgame]

A candle?

As an aside Tony, the dynamo on my Agattu has 3 positions - top=on, middle=auto, bottom=off

Decidedly odd. And for once Sod's Law has missed a point since I rather prefer not having the extra and, for me, unused complication of the light sensor.

 

[musicbooks]

The daily Commute

Please post your impressions in this thread!

So you've been out all day on your new wonderful machines, tell us poor souls who are still waiting for ours about them.

OK.. Got the insurance.. compulsory with cyclescheme.. got the kryptonite lock.. compulsory with the insurance.. got the cycle helmet and banana jacket.. compulsory with spouse..Got the panniers.. free with 50cycles..
so finally, finally ready for the daily commute.

Here are my second impressions following my 3 mile journey to work

Set off on flat and switched on battery too test.. Lights flickered and went out.. Oh.. Switched on and off again and power kicked in OK..Not sure why that happened.. Half of my journey to work is flat/ down hill so bike went smooth as a bullet through butter. Getting used to the weight, though still feels on the heavy side (especially when I carry it up and down my steps) . On a flat section, I tested all the gears again and all engaed with significant differences in each gear, so I think the gearing is fine.. though Intain 6 and 7 are a little light .. I checked this with the power off and it still felt as though I could do with a bit more push.

First Test.. North Road Hill, Bath.. 1.5 miles of steep hill 1 in 10 for 0.4 miles and then 1 in 4/5 for 0.8 miles or so.. Started in 1st gear and had to work very hard..on full power so tried 2nd.. still felt a bit of a struggle. I'm out of condition and cycle muscles are very weak at the moment.. Tried 3rd and it started to feel better.. let the bike do the work.. tried 4th and it felt about right.. When I reached the steepest part of the hill, I changed back to third.. Bit a puff but made it to the top.. Back on the flat I played with the gears again and all were fine..although the gear slipped a little between 4 and 5 but I was probably changing too quickly. So total journey 1.75 miles .. journey time 15 mins..I'd have beaten the car and the bus by about 30 mins!

OK.. so far so good.. I turned round and started my journey back..Tested the power again and the lights flickered on and off.. and on again.. I am now worried about this and would like some advice.

Down North Road.. comfortable ride.. The suspension is very good.. though I just about bounced off the bike when I hit a pothole.. Have to be careful.. Brakes performed very well.

Now up another very steep hill 1 mile approx in 4 for 0.5 and 1 in 8/10 for 0.5 miles. Again, 4 th gear better than the lower gears.. I let the bike do the work. Still quite hard though.. but this is good, if you like exercise. Once up on the flat, ran through the gears again and all was well.
Arrived home in 15 mins

Checked power.. On the handlebar control one light was out (Half power) and on the battery, one light was out.. I'm not sure if this is normal.. I did an initial charge of about 5 hours over a week ago with very little use after Should I expect this loss after such a short journey (though the bike worked very hard to get up both hills.)

So, overall.. A joy to ride ..9.5/10 (0.5 point off for weight and light gears)

I supose the real test comes when it is used every day in all weathers

BW
musicbooks

 

[flecc]

Thanks for the report Tom.

Three things.

First, you must stop pedalling before switching on power, and not pedal again until the power lights have self tested and settled to normal. That takes a bit over a second to happen. If you pedal too early, it will cut out as you noted, or give reduced power only. It's a protection system. That doesn't apply when changing power levels though, you can change between Eco, Standard and High power at any time.

The other thing is pedalling cadence (speed). The most power on these units comes at slow pedalling speeds, and in trying to climb that hill in low gear with pedals spinning you were deprived of three quarters of the power. Changing up slowed your pedalling and so gave you more power.

So when you want more power from the motor, either slow down your road speed so the pedalling is slower, or change up to get the same result.

Because it's best to pause pedalling when changing to get clean gear changes, experience will help, as with that you'll be able to judge what gear you need as you enter a hill, rather than trying to change fast while already climbing.
.

 

[robert44]

Flickering Lights

Hi Musicbooks,
Flecc is right, you must not pedal when you switch the power on. If you do, then all 6 lights flash on and off and no assistance is applied. I then switch off and on again without pedalling and wait for the lights to set - approx a second.

 

[stokepa31]

Thanks Tom

Sounds like you had fun. Thanks for the gearing test. If it will tackle bath in 4th I think for ease of use you will have to shrink the rear sprocket a bit. Im now pretty much settled on going for 16 teeth on my proconnect which should give me a nice gear to push against.

I'm very jealous.

Paul

 

[musicbooks]

Thanks Tom

Sounds like you had fun. Thanks for the gearing test. If it will tackle bath in 4th I think for ease of use you will have to shrink the rear sprocket a bit. Im now pretty much settled on going for 16 teeth on my proconnect which should give me a nice gear to push against.

I'm very jealous.

Paul

Thanks for a your advice and comments folks.. Would welcome any further advice on shrinking the rear sprocket.. though I feel that I should test run a little longer, say one or two weeks of regular commuting..and report back to the forum..Would reduction in sprocket size reduce battery consumption?

BW
musicbooks

 

[flecc]

No, it can increase the consumption, since it gears up so it makes the motor work over a larger range of speeds. Therefore, more time using current. The difference can be quite small though, and the range on these should not be a problem, since it's best to charge Li-ion batteries frequently and not run them empty all the time.

What sort of trip lengths do you have?
.

 

[Cyclezee]

May I draw attention to this thread http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/1825-two-part-agattu-mudguard.html

John

 

[musicbooks]

May I draw attention to this thread http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/1825-two-part-agattu-mudguard.html

John

That's a bit alarming.. Is it a design fault? John, I remember you saying that you had covered over 800 miles already on your step thru. Do you think you might have rattled it out of line.. Have you been off roading again
Are you going to contact 50c?

I'll check mine out.. thanks for the warning.
BW
musicbooks

 

[Cyclezee]

That's a bit alarming.. Is it a design fault? John, I remember you saying that you had covered over 800 miles already on your step thru. Do you think you might have rattled it out of line.. Have you been off roading again
Are you going to contact 50c?

I'll check mine out.. thanks for the warning.
BW
musicbooks

Musicbooks,
Firstly, I have not been 'off roading'.
It didn't rattle out of line as the large remaing section was in alignment after the breakage, the piece that broke off is not supported beyond the 4 holes across which in my opinion weaken the mudguard considerably and is bad design. As I have discovered the mudguard is not a standard SKS one, but specific to the Agattu.
I have emailed 50c and will ring on Monday.

John

 

[musicbooks]

Musicbooks,
Firstly, I have not been 'off roading'.
It didn't rattle out of line as the large remaing section was in alignment after the breakage, the piece that broke off is not supported beyond the 4 holes across which in my opinion weaken the mudguard considerably.
I have emailed 50c and will ring on Monday.

John

Sorry John,
Only teasing (reff roading). You are clearly upset about this. The bike is under warranty and I would think that 50C will replace without question. However, do you think it is a design fault?

 

[Cyclezee]

Musicbooks,

I believe it is a design fault to have 4 x 4mm holes in a straight line across the 45mm width of the mudguard. This leaves only 29mm of material which is unsupported beyond this point.

The solution could be to stagger the holes so they are not in close proximity across the width of the mudguard, or use a different type of mudguard support.

John

 

[stokepa31]

Sorry to hear about this John

I'm sure 50c will send you out a new one but if it is indeed a design flaw they will need to address this going forward. Hope it holds together till the new one arrives.

why i'm on here is it your bike that has the rigid panniers and if so can you drop me a link. sorry to go off thread a touch.

regards
Paul

 

[Cyclezee]

Paul,
Sorry, can't help with the panniers. I don't use them, must be somebody else. Maybe you should try Flecc.

John

 

[flecc]

Sorry, I can't remember who had the rigid plastic panniers, if that's the ones you mean.
.