Yes, the motor windings are more or less a dead short if connected directly to a motor so the current has to be limited to preserve the windings and also if a its a geared motor the nylon drive gears.This is basically correct, the controller limits the Max current that the motor can pull. Many of the controllers are programmable such as those from Edward Lyen and E-Crazyman. I have a Lyen controller and to change the Max current takes a few seconds using my laptop and a supplied USB cable. I can set it from 1-30A.
Alternatively just buy a controller that has a suitable Max current for your motor which for you will likely be 15-20A.
Ben
Yes you can. But it will require extra wiring and soldering.I've ordered a cycle analyst which I understand I can use to limit the current.
Yes, the danger zone for these motors is when hill climbing. If the speed starts to drop off the motor will try to draw more power, but as it slows it also begins to lose efficiency and more of the power starts to go into heating the motor rather than driving it forward. If this carries on it will eventually overheat and fail. That’s why it’s important to keep the speed up, so that the motor operates in its most efficient range. If you can limit the current the motor can draw you will also limit, or at least delay, the degree of overheating.Thank you all for the explanations but I'm still a little unsure as to why the motor would get burnt with the more powerful controller. Is it because when the motor is under full load up a hill, it continues to pull as much current as it can and if the controller lets it pull too much, that's when it gets burnt?
Most controllers have their set current limit on the label. As has been said some controllers can have their current limit programmed, others can by adjusted by modifying the shunt inside.Is it possible to somehow limit the amount of current it can pull by modifying it?
Also, how do you determine how many amps a controller will deliver?
I haven’t any experience of the Cycle Analyst but it sounds as if it may do the job. Its other features are useful as well - I always keep a Watts Up meter connected on mine.I've ordered a cycle analyst which I understand I can use to limit the current.
Yes you can. But it will require extra wiring and soldering.
The Cycle Analyst limits the current by overriding the throttle signal. So the throttle signal has to be routed to the CA and then the modified signal routed to the controller. I believe you will have to do some soldering to the CA circuit board because the throttle signal input/output wiring harness is not provided. The manual shows how this is done.
Richard
Hi Frank you are correct and they are great controllers. I have a 20A version which I've used for the last 18 months but its not programmable...but it was supplied with the exact values to set up the cycle analyst properly and easily.Hi If you buy a controller with the infineon chip and the cycle annalist 6 pin connector like the link below
they make the cycle annalist just plug it in it powers off the controller
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/C3620-NC.jpg
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/CA-LDP.jpg
Frank
I should have been more specific. I was referring to the method method he would have to use on the Cycle Analyst with his KU123 controller as the KU123 does not have a direct plug-in port.This is not 100% true...what you are talking about is having a total current override (pre throttle) which the cycle analyst manual describes briefly. This does require soldering to the CA circuit board.
Ben.
Ah ok yes I see what you mean...I wasn't thinking about the controller with no CA connector.I should have been more specific. I was referring to the method method he would have to use on the Cycle Analyst with his KU123 controller as the KU123 does not have a direct plug-in port.
Another mod others have done with the KU123 to limit the current is to cut one of the two current shunts on the board. This will reduce the current limit to about half of what it currently is. However, it is a lot of work as you will have to tin or shave the second shunt to get the current limit you want. If you are not comfortable with working on circuit boards, then it might be easier to just buy another controller.
Richard
I think you have made a good decision...if you have a look at my thread on my electric Brompton build you will see where I have fitted my lyen controller.ok - I've requested the KU123 controller be removed from my order and I've asked Edward Lyen for a quote on a 6x4110 Mini Monster Programmable Controller LYEN Edition shipped to the UK.
The costs are certainly adding up now but its less than a Nano I suppose and I'll have a more flexible kit.
Thank you for all the advice so far. I'll no doubt struggle with connecting it all up too so may need some more advice in a week or two.
Cheers
Slippa
Actually - I think I can get the USB-TTL programming adapter for a bit less on ebay:
usb to ttl adapter | eBay
To be honest I have found this to be the case with nearly all my orders direct to China. Even if you get them to confirm items are in stock and ready to send, they will pretty much say anything to get the sale.I'm pi$$ed off with BMSBattery at the moment as I ordered last week (23rd) and now they are saying that my order won't be shipped until this Friday taking at least a week to get to the UK. That is also with me contacting them and complaining over their chat system as they sent me an email message today saying my order wouldn't be shipped until next week! Something to keep in mind when ordering from bmsbattery - you will be waiting 2-3 weeks to receive your order.