That's a shame; however, I think it's probably not a problem with your settings, but rather a connection or wiring fault. Are you sure your phase wire connections are good? You can get those symptoms when bullet connectors get stretched or the bullet is being held in by the plastic shroud and only touching the barrel rather than clamped by it.
Advice please.... Pro Rider E-Wayfarer controller.
- Thread starter Lazeyboy
- Start date
Try the c2/1 setting again now you have tried and found some better phase/hall combos to see if it helps.
The P1 is calculated by knowing the husb internal reduction which we don't know, suffice to say try starting with value 80 then incrementally raise it by 10 to see ehat happens up to 160 to start with.
The P1 is calculated by knowing the husb internal reduction which we don't know, suffice to say try starting with value 80 then incrementally raise it by 10 to see ehat happens up to 160 to start with.
Hi,
Yes, the connections are all okay, we double checked them. Also put our old controller back on to test the connections out and everything works fine.
Going back to the new controller, we then tried the P1 settings as you suggested, as we went down in steps of 10 we did eventually get one that didn’t squeal, but the speed was then only max of about 5mph. It looks to us like the squeal comes on about 9mph. Going up in steps of 10 didn’t get rid of the squeal.
Hi,
We tried the best setting that we found and tried p1 for a couple of settings, pretty random choices but no noticeable change. Still really high amp draw, 3 amp at 3 mph, and going up and over 10 amp.
We went back to the original match of hall and motor wires, and tried the p1 settings again, we went down in 10s as you suggested, we did eventually get one that didn’t squeal, but the speed was then only max of about 5mph. It looks to us like the squeal comes on about 9mph. Going up in steps of 10 didn’t get rid of the squeal.
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Then a while later something strange happens.
Everything seemed to work okay after changing some C1 & C2 settings. While we gradually increased the speed we got to 9 mile an hour then instead of screaming it dropped 2 mph and then we could increase it all the way up to 17mph. We couldn’t believe it so we tried again several times and it was okay apart from the sudden drop by 2mph.
Then we changed the p1 settings by 10 and it screamed again, so we went back to the previous settings and it still screamed again.
Later after checking various settings it ran quieter again. At the moment it’s fine albeit the strange 2mph drop.
Everything seems to happen around 9 mph. It’s like the motor sounds as if it changes gear before either accelerating or screaming.
I’ll upload a video so you can see.
eBike – Google Drive
drive.google.com
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You have set your controller to current control (Torque simulation mode), so you will get the maximum current allowed in each level at low speed when testing with the pedal sensor. The throttle uses speed control, so is a bit more complicated.
Thanks, I’ve uploaded and video to show and I’ll have a look though the manual to find the current control setting.
Have taken a photo of the only mention of “torque” in our manual. Is this what you mean?
We have it set on 1 at the moment.
Have tried but it didn’t seem to make any difference. Starting to wonder if we have another dodgy controller.
P3 =1 sets it to current control, where you get a different set constant current in each level, with small current on level 1 and max current on level 5. There is only the global speed limit on each level.
P3=0 sets it to speed control, where you get a different maximum speed in each level, with level 1 being a low speed and level 5 giving maximum speed. There is only the global maximum current on each level, so whatever level you're on, you get the maximum current as soon as you start to pedal.
The motor regulates the current independently from the controller. It will allow the maximum current up to a certain speed, then the maximum current you can get ramps down as the speed increases after that until you get zero current at the motor's maximum RPM.
The reason the motor has a max rpm is because it generates as soon as it starts to turn, and the generated voltage cancels voltage from the battery. At max rpm, the motor is generating 36v, so the net voltage is zero, so no current can flow.
Example:
Your controller allows 15 amps, the motor has a max speed of 260 RPM, you have a 36V battery and the motor windings have a resistance of 1.2 Ohms.
At zero RPM there is no generation. Ohms law says the current will be volts/resistance = 30 amps, which would burn the motor, but the controller limits the current to 15 amps by pulsing the voltage to make an average of 18v instead of allowing the maximum..
At 50% max RPM, the motor generates 18V, so net voltage is 36-18 =18volts. ohms law says the current will be 18/1.2 = 15 amps. Now you can see that regardless of RPM, you get a constant current up to 50% of the max RPM - always 15 amps
At max rpm, the voltage generated is 36v. Net voltage is 36-36=0V. without volts, no current can flow. What you can see in this case is that the current decreases above 50% max rpm. A 75% max RPM (195 rpm) the voltage generated will be 27V. Net voltage will be 9V and you'll get 7.5 amps.
These numbers are all made up and the explanation is simplified for the sake of understanding, but that's it in a nutshell.
P3=0 sets it to speed control, where you get a different maximum speed in each level, with level 1 being a low speed and level 5 giving maximum speed. There is only the global maximum current on each level, so whatever level you're on, you get the maximum current as soon as you start to pedal.
The motor regulates the current independently from the controller. It will allow the maximum current up to a certain speed, then the maximum current you can get ramps down as the speed increases after that until you get zero current at the motor's maximum RPM.
The reason the motor has a max rpm is because it generates as soon as it starts to turn, and the generated voltage cancels voltage from the battery. At max rpm, the motor is generating 36v, so the net voltage is zero, so no current can flow.
Example:
Your controller allows 15 amps, the motor has a max speed of 260 RPM, you have a 36V battery and the motor windings have a resistance of 1.2 Ohms.
At zero RPM there is no generation. Ohms law says the current will be volts/resistance = 30 amps, which would burn the motor, but the controller limits the current to 15 amps by pulsing the voltage to make an average of 18v instead of allowing the maximum..
At 50% max RPM, the motor generates 18V, so net voltage is 36-18 =18volts. ohms law says the current will be 18/1.2 = 15 amps. Now you can see that regardless of RPM, you get a constant current up to 50% of the max RPM - always 15 amps
At max rpm, the voltage generated is 36v. Net voltage is 36-36=0V. without volts, no current can flow. What you can see in this case is that the current decreases above 50% max rpm. A 75% max RPM (195 rpm) the voltage generated will be 27V. Net voltage will be 9V and you'll get 7.5 amps.
These numbers are all made up and the explanation is simplified for the sake of understanding, but that's it in a nutshell.
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Wow, what can I say, you’ve given me a lot to think about, but I’m sorry to say that even though I’ve read it several times I will probably only at best be able to understand a tenth of it. I wish I could, believe me. You obviously know your stuff.
Can I ask though, would it be possible to give me an illustration on how this all would effect the bike in use? Say for instance what I should expect to happen to the bike with ‘torque control’ engaged or disengaged? I understand if you haven’t got the time, but I would like to know.
Does anybody else want to explain it or translate?
P3 =1 sets it to current control, where you get a different constant current in each level, with small current on level 1 and max current on level 5. There is only the global speed limit on each level.
P3=0 sets it to speed control, where you get a different maximum speed in each level, with level 1 being a low speed and level 5 giving maximum speed. There is only the global maximum current on each level, so whatever level you're on, you get the maximum current as soon as you start to pedal.
P3 =1 sets it to current control, where you get a different constant current in each level, with small current on level 1 and max current on level 5. There is only the global speed limit on each level.
P3=0 sets it to speed control, where you get a different maximum speed in each level, with level 1 being a low speed and level 5 giving maximum speed. There is only the global maximum current on each level, so whatever level you're on, you get the maximum current as soon as you start to pedal.
No it’s alright , it’s probably best that when I get something sorted and working properly that I just spend some time changing the settings while out on the bike. Trial is usually the only way I learn, with hopefully not too much error. I which there was an ‘e-bike for dummies’, especially when it comes to the different combinations of wiring of controllers!
I can change the settings now but as I said before for some reason the loud screaming may start again. Changing any settings, even the kmh to mph, can start it off and then, just as strange, it can stop.
So I would like to thank ‘nealh’ and now ‘vfr400’ for your help and endless ‘patience’ through this.
As I said at the start, I am, and I’m still, very much a ‘newbie’ at this, with little understanding at how these ebikes work.
I have learned a lot, and I do appreciate this forum with all the team of helpers that give there time and effort for little, if no reward. Thanks again. Chris.
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