its seals bigger holes and it does not go into a hard ball after time and cause a noise in the tyre like a lot of other makes
A working dongle - at last
- Thread starter RobF
- Start date
How do you get 2 yrs 3000miles out of a set of tyres?
Even with swapping back to front, I'm lucky to get six months out of a set of tyres, which makes the going hard and balling comment in relation to Stans, quite irrelevant, as it would to anyone who rides off road. I can't imagine any person who rides off road, getting 3000miles from a set of tyres.
ill give you the full story seeing as tho you think I could be lying when I first went tubless on a scott genius 720 carbon which the bike dealer did for me with stans sealent after 60 miles 3 week from new I had a noise coming from the front sounded like the forks the dealer striped the fox 34 forks he said he thinks something could be wrong new seals and oil were replaced but the noise was still there so after further investigation the front tyre was removed and what the shop called it was spiders the sealent had bonded together so when I was on the trails they were causing the noise the shop said the sealent does that a lot but they never heard it make that noise before so they put joes sealent in and it was perfect and ive used it ever since. So that is why I recommended it. SO EDDIE IT CAN BE AN ISSUE
I had my Badassebike dongle fitted on my Giant Full E 1 (Yamaha powered, double suspension mountain bike) today. This thing is GREAT ! Before, you feel the "cutoff" at 25 kph, after you never feel it, because 50 kph is far over the "comfort" speed you want to reach.
On Yamaha, the speed is divided by 2 (not 3 like a Bosch) and I had fitted (on the bar) my GPS (Garmin Etrex 20, very accurate) to check the speed.
The mileage (how do you say that in km ?) is also divided, remember that.
The only "minus" for me was that the setting of the magnet is not explained; I mailed Badassebike and the answer (from Lui) was very fast, with a picture, but I would have appreciated some logic information, for instance "the magnet circle must be X cm from the sensor, towards the wheel axle".
I think this thing will stay on the bike.
If I want to avoid a higher battery consumption, I just have to cut the engine (one click on the control box on the bar) above 12,5 kph (bike tacho) or 25 kph (GPS), how the computer would have done "without".
On Yamaha, the speed is divided by 2 (not 3 like a Bosch) and I had fitted (on the bar) my GPS (Garmin Etrex 20, very accurate) to check the speed.
The mileage (how do you say that in km ?) is also divided, remember that.
The only "minus" for me was that the setting of the magnet is not explained; I mailed Badassebike and the answer (from Lui) was very fast, with a picture, but I would have appreciated some logic information, for instance "the magnet circle must be X cm from the sensor, towards the wheel axle".
I think this thing will stay on the bike.
If I want to avoid a higher battery consumption, I just have to cut the engine (one click on the control box on the bar) above 12,5 kph (bike tacho) or 25 kph (GPS), how the computer would have done "without".
Hi
The Instructions that came with mine were totally wrong.
I found through trial and error that about half the magnet need to pass over the back of the dongle if that makes sense.
A little either way and it gives error flash on the yamaha controler.
Love to see a copy of what badass sent to you Henry.
The Instructions that came with mine were totally wrong.
I found through trial and error that about half the magnet need to pass over the back of the dongle if that makes sense.
A little either way and it gives error flash on the yamaha controler.
Love to see a copy of what badass sent to you Henry.
In fact, I discovered that the magnet can be perpendicular to the sensor or towards the sensor. I guess what the sensor "feels" is a bubble-shaped magnetic field and that its location does not have to be millimeter-accurate
Where your red dot is. That's where I located mine.
Yours looks to be about 15mm behind the sensor and take your point about it being either square or perpendicular to the dongle
Yours looks to be about 15mm behind the sensor and take your point about it being either square or perpendicular to the dongle
This is not a picture of mine, but the explanation picture Badassebike sent to me. Mine is a bit nearer the dongle; About position of the magnet (parallel or perpendicular to dongle), both work (I tried).
....update....
The dongle conked out a week or two ago after about 17 months of use.
Changing the batteries didn't work, so I emailed Badass in the hope they might at least give me a good discount on a new one.
Lui replied, swiftly as always, to say as an owner of an early type 3.1 dongle I am entitled to a free new type 3.3.
Apparently mine is one of only 96 made, and Badass have decided to replace all of them if they fail.
Rather touchingly, Lui said the company felt they owed that to the customers who 'trusted' Badass at an early stage.
This won't apply to new purchases, but it reinforces my view that Badass is an excellent company to deal with.
A fair crack of the whip is all I ask for - Badass deliver a bit more than that.
Dongle arrived and fitted.
The latest ones have a bigger cell battery which ought to last longer than the coin type in my earlier model.
Having been dongle free for a few weeks made me realise how much I miss it.
Very handy having easier access to up to 20mph or so.
I can go a bit faster, but don't want to.
Cruising at 17/18mph on open roads feels about right, and the occasional extra turn of speed is safer in some traffic situations.
In common with a lot of other ebikers, if the factory restricted limit was 20mph I wouldn't bother with a dongle.
But it isn't, so I do.
The latest ones have a bigger cell battery which ought to last longer than the coin type in my earlier model.
Having been dongle free for a few weeks made me realise how much I miss it.
Very handy having easier access to up to 20mph or so.
I can go a bit faster, but don't want to.
Cruising at 17/18mph on open roads feels about right, and the occasional extra turn of speed is safer in some traffic situations.
In common with a lot of other ebikers, if the factory restricted limit was 20mph I wouldn't bother with a dongle.
But it isn't, so I do.
D
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I know what you mean. I've restricted mine to 15.5 mph, but it's really annoying when the lights change to amber, and no matter h8w hard I pedal, I can't go any faster to get through safely.
I fully agree 20mph is all that's required, dongles just so help to keep your average speed up to get you to more distant destinations comfortably and I feel safely.
How long before someone responds telling me dongles are both illegal and unsafe..........
How long before someone responds telling me dongles are both illegal and unsafe..........
After about 1 yr and around 1500 km on my Cube SUV, Bosch Active 2014 engine (dongled almost all the way) I am beginning to notice some serious improvements in my fitness. The logical question for me now is what kind of bigger front chainring do I need to get past my usual 40-42 kph road speed without 'spin out' - if that's the right expression? What would be the sideffect on lower speeds by that change? Looking for some infos to know where to start...
As one can see, I'm not very into bike mechanics (nor physics)
Thanks, I know there are guys here who did this on their badassed bikes
As one can see, I'm not very into bike mechanics (nor physics)
Thanks, I know there are guys here who did this on their badassed bikes
To raise the gearing you need either a smaller cog on the back or a bigger one on the front.After about 1 yr and around 1500 km on my Cube SUV, Bosch Active 2014 engine (dongled almost all the way) I am beginning to notice some serious improvements in my fitness. The logical question for me now is what kind of bigger front chainring do I need to get past my usual 40-42 kph road speed without 'spin out' - if that's the right expression? What would be the sideffect on lower speeds by that change? Looking for some infos to know where to start...
As one can see, I'm not very into bike mechanics (nor physics)
Thanks, I know there are guys here who did this on their badassed bikes
Changing the back one is not an option because the smallest - fastest gear - cog is already as small as it can be without the chain jumping.
There are different sized rings available for the front.
You want a bigger one, so you will need to count the teeth on your existing ring.
It looks as if 20 is about the biggest available, if you already have one of those, there is no realistic way of raising the gearing.
If you have a smaller ring, a bigger one should fit, but you may have to dump the chain guard, depending on clearances.
You may also need to lengthen the chain to preserve proper gear changing at the back.
The effect will be to raise all the gears a notch, so first - slowest - will probably feel roughly like second does at the moment.
Forum member EddiePJ has changed his a few times so is more, er, up to speed, with what's available than me.
He may see your thread, or ping him a private message.
https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/eBike-Spare-Parts/bosch-drive-unit-sprocket
Paws, that is a lovely looking bike. Very neat, uncluttered and functional. Very nice.
As Rob has indicated, and assuming that the bike is running a NuVinci rear hub, you are stuffed unless you want to pay big bucks, to change the rear aspect of the gearing. Changing the front gearing is really the only viable option.
My current set up on the KTM is 11-36 on the rear and 15 on the front. With this set up, I am spinning out at approx 31mph. For my use, that isn't an issue, and I'd love to lower it, so my only option for any significant improvement is to switch to a 42 on the rear and remove one of the other ratios.
Clearly you are wanting the opposite. Be very careful when swapping the ratio's, as it does and will make a significant difference. I believe that according to Bosch, the ratio as is stands is that for every one revolution of the pedal, the sprocket is turning 2.5 times. so in my case of using a 15 tooth sprocket, the equivalent conventional sprocket size would be 37 tooth. A 20 tooth sprocket would give you the equivalent of 50 tooth. I'm seeing someone this weekend who once explained a method that would allow you very easily to calculate just how many metres per pedal stroke that your rear and front gearing would allow travel. Currently I can't remember how to do it, so I'll ask for you.
I would also add that the quality of the sprockets that Martin sells are very good.
Very neat, uncluttered and functional. Very nice.As Rob has indicated, and assuming that the bike is running a NuVinci rear hub, you are stuffed unless you want to pay big bucks, to change the rear aspect of the gearing. Changing the front gearing is really the only viable option.
My current set up on the KTM is 11-36 on the rear and 15 on the front. With this set up, I am spinning out at approx 31mph. For my use, that isn't an issue, and I'd love to lower it, so my only option for any significant improvement is to switch to a 42 on the rear and remove one of the other ratios.
Clearly you are wanting the opposite. Be very careful when swapping the ratio's, as it does and will make a significant difference. I believe that according to Bosch, the ratio as is stands is that for every one revolution of the pedal, the sprocket is turning 2.5 times. so in my case of using a 15 tooth sprocket, the equivalent conventional sprocket size would be 37 tooth. A 20 tooth sprocket would give you the equivalent of 50 tooth. I'm seeing someone this weekend who once explained a method that would allow you very easily to calculate just how many metres per pedal stroke that your rear and front gearing would allow travel. Currently I can't remember how to do it, so I'll ask for you.
I would also add that the quality of the sprockets that Martin sells are very good.
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