A rare piece of history - Swizzbee

[Nealh]

With those currents I can see your point about using copper. For those of us using 15-17 Amp controllers I think pure nickel will work just fine.

Yes agree for up to 20a pure nickel is all that is needed, just a case of using correct size for cells in P to series to carry the amperage across.

In the experimental X pattern for parallel I used, parallel busses only need to be able to deliver the individual cell current to the center, it is the series buss that needs to handle the combined amperage.

Generic China battery with branded cells tend to use 8mm - 12mm x 0.15 nickel sometimes layered.
Really cheap unbranded cells I don't know but on ES some use plated steel and pics show the rusting.
Bosch builds are quality and use bespoke laser cut buss and can be 0.2 or 0.3mm nickel x about 12mm.

 

[Nealh]

Epoxied the charge port in to day and the product sticks like Sh** to a blanket in about 3-5 mins. In the past have used 2-part Araldite but wasn't overly impressed, this time I used the Gorilla 2 - part epoxy and it is superb.
Going to make up the steerer tube bracket tomorrow for the amp/watt meter and a go at repairing the Boss spot welder. Spent today using the rest of the PF's in a 10s4P which is all finished, used the Melectric which is a great bit of kit.

 

[Nealh]

I replaced the Watt meter with ext shunt as I simply couldn't get it to work (likely me not installing it correctly) but no matter what I tried zilch, nothing, zero in any info read out.
So I now have a nice smaller watt/ammeter installed in a small project box on the head set, current measurement is via a directional hall sensor and the V+ wire to the controller.

Digital Multimeter DC 0-90V 0-100A Voltmeter Ammeter Power Monitor w Hall Sensor Multifunctional Bidirectional Meter - AliExpress 1420

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Todays ride showed a max of 34a in high torque mode and some 800+w.
Typical usage on flat terrain is 10 - 16a continuous.

 

[KirstinS]

I replaced the Watt meter with ext shunt as I simply couldn't get it to work (likely me not installing it correctly) but no matter what I tried zilch, nothing, zero in any info read out.
So I now have a nice smaller watt/ammeter installed in a small project box on the head set, current measurement is via a directional hall sensor and the V+ wire to the controller.

Digital Multimeter DC 0-90V 0-100A Voltmeter Ammeter Power Monitor w Hall Sensor Multifunctional Bidirectional Meter - AliExpress 1420

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Todays ride showed a max of 34a in high torque mode and some 800+w.
Typical usage on flat terrain is 10 - 16a continuous.

Hungry but beautiful!

 

[anotherkiwi]

I replaced the Watt meter with ext shunt as I simply couldn't get it to work (likely me not installing it correctly) but no matter what I tried zilch, nothing, zero in any info read out.
So I now have a nice smaller watt/ammeter installed in a small project box on the head set, current measurement is via a directional hall sensor and the V+ wire to the controller.

Digital Multimeter DC 0-90V 0-100A Voltmeter Ammeter Power Monitor w Hall Sensor Multifunctional Bidirectional Meter - AliExpress 1420

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Todays ride showed a max of 34a in high torque mode and some 800+w.
Typical usage on flat terrain is 10 - 16a continuous.

OOOOO! I like that one. Mine has developed a tiny bug and shows 907 peak Amps... I think I would have noticed a burning smell if that was the correct number...

The battery being about 2 metres from where I would like to mount a multimeter is a bit of a challenge. Multimeter with Bluetooth transmitter?

 

[vfr400]

It looks very cumbersome to me. Why not use a normal wattmeter with a remote shunt mod?

 

[ben619]

spent the last hour reading through this thread, top work Nealh!

Think it needs a 2.5 year update!