Firstly I'm sorry this thread continues to bore.......
Secondly I tested the battery last night to make sure it blown. Got 41v so it seems just fine
However, it gives 41 regardless of switch position on the base
Paul says not to return it a they have none in stock
Bit that'd isn't seem right to me ? Shouldn't it read 0v if off ?
I guess I can wire in another switch
Any pitfalls in doing this ?
Thanks as ever
I'm wondering if your switch was faulty before, so they simply by-passed it. Alternatively, the switch switches the BMS on/off, so if the BMS was faulty, they might have by-passed it completely for output. You'd need to open up the case to see what's going on.
I doubt that your problem is anything to do with the battery. As I said before, you can bypass the panel to test if it's faulty. There's four wires that go to the panel. Sometimes they use two two-pin connectors and sometimes they use a single 4 way. The wires are black (0v), red (36v), green (PAS signal), blue or orange (36v return to the controller when you switch the panel on). So you only need to join the red and blue or orange, and then the controller will work if it's not faulty.
The problem is that you must have a short somewhere that caused the BMS problem. Without a watt-meter between your battery and controller, it's difficult to see what's going on. Alternatively, you can get an idea from a permanently connected voltmeter, so that you'd see the voltage dip when you connect if there's a short.
If your motor phase or hall wires are not connected properly, it can be similar to a short on the controller output, which usually blows the controller before the BMS, but you should check all those connections anyway.
