40 mile round trip commute - 20mph - help please :)

[BornAgainCyclist]

Or maybe just the sensor glued to something solid and pivotable with cable ties which makes it look like this.

https://goo.gl/images/imoXG2

 

[R0881E]

Or maybe just the sensor glued to something solid and pivotable with cable ties which makes it look like this.

https://goo.gl/images/imoXG2

That is sensible will see what I can work out over the weekend. I guess it needs holding well due to the magnets pull together with constant vibrations

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Whatever you do, make sure that you test it first to figure out which way up the magnets go and which side's of the bike it'll work. It would be a bit annoying to have everything nicely glued to find that it only works when you pedal backwards.

 

[R0881E]

Whatever you do, make sure that you test it first to figure out which way up the magnets go and which side's of the bike it'll work. It would be a bit annoying to have everything nicely glued to find that it only works when you pedal backwards.

Thanks I had read that elsewhere from you and already tested the direction

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks I had read that elsewhere from you and already tested the direction

If I can save one person, it's worth all the efort.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

Then take comfort in knowing more than one have now been saved, as it’s naturally a 50 50 chance you know there is virtually no chance of getting it right through luck.

 

[R0881E]

He has a KT controller and LCD-3 I think?

So yes I did try: went from an 8 magnet disk to a 12 magnet one and I changed the settings to make it work smoother. It worked with 8 magnets but setting the number to 12 made startup much smoother.

Do you remember which settings you had to change? I saw that one was magnets x reduction ratio but I have no idea what that is.

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Do you remember which settings you had to change? I saw that one was magnets x reduction ratio but I have no idea what that is.

Thanks

That's P1. You don't need to set that unless your motor runs rough.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Do you remember which settings you had to change? I saw that one was magnets x reduction ratio but I have no idea what that is.

Thanks

PAS disk choice is C1.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

The LCD3 manuals are downloadable on BMSBattery’s website, look up the LCD3 product.

 

[R0881E]

I am still waiting for my triangle bag to come. As a test I have sellotaped the PAS sensor around a velcro tie which I put around the frame. It worked but I will revisit when I have some time.

I rode just over 40km today (work and back via ferry) and it dropped a bar of battery around 25km in (at a guess). This was on PAS 2 and showing about 170W most of the time. I was cycling into a 30kph headwind all the way home too.

The bike is excellent with PAS and definitely better than the throttle. I was usually pedalling at around 37kph.

It looks like I am on course to make the full 65km commute (without ferry) on a single charge

The best way that I can describe it is that pedalling on the flat feels like pedalling downhill, and pedalling uphill feels like you are pedalling on the flat.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

Great news. Looks like we both love the PAS

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It's very easy to calculate range because the power from the battery is constant if you only ride on one level. Level 2 =170W, so 3 hours =510Wh. Average speed of 30km/h means 90km minimum from a 500Wh battery. In practice, a 500Wh battery probably gives 20% less charge, but you don't use any power when freewheeling and the motor limits power a bit as it approaches maximum speed, so that probably equalises the 20% capacity shortfall.

 

[R0881E]

It's very easy to calculate range because the power from the battery is constant if you only ride on one level. Level 2 =170W, so 3 hours =510Wh. Average speed of 30km/h means 90km minimum from a 500Wh battery. In practice, a 500Wh battery probably gives 20% less charge, but you don't use any power when freewheeling and the motor limits power a bit as it approaches maximum speed, so that probably equalises the 20% capacity shortfall.

I was using similar mathematics when cycling home and wondering whether this will play out correctly.
Given that I asked for the 14.5ah battery with integrated controller (and they only advertise 11.5ah) I did wonder whether I actually have what I requested.

Also, the battery case has a small that has 4 lights on. It showed 3 green and 1 red when the charged has finished yet it also showed 3 green when the lcd3 3 was only showing 1 bar left after my first ride with the thumb throttle last week. Does the battery indicator on the case actually work?

 

[anotherkiwi]

I was using similar mathematics when cycling home and wondering whether this will play out correctly.
Given that I asked for the 14.5ah battery with integrated controller (and they only advertise 11.5ah) I did wonder whether I actually have what I requested.

Also, the battery case has a small that has 4 lights on. It showed 3 green and 1 red when the charged has finished yet it also showed 3 green when the lcd3 3 was only showing 1 bar left after my first ride with the thumb throttle last week. Does the battery indicator on the case actually work?

The best way to know how much you have left is to use a Watt meter between the battery and the controller. The lights will show voltage and as you know the discharge curve of Li-Ion is quite flat - you have 36v for quite a long time. Then it falls away sharply.

I am guessing that your LCD is in "smart" mode and is guessing how much is left. Humans guess much better than LCDs especially if you have an idea of how many Wh/km you use on a typical route.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The LCD will show voltage if you short press the power button twice. That's actual voltage. 54.6v is absolutely full. It drops very quickly to around 53.3v, then goes down more or less linearly to 43v, then starts to accelerate downwards, so you can say the bulk of the charge is between 53v and 43v. Each 1v change is 10% of your battery and 48v is half-full.

 

[R0881E]

The LCD will show voltage if you short press the power button twice. That's actual voltage. 54.6v is absolutely full. It drops very quickly to around 53.3v, then goes down more or less linearly to 43v, then starts to accelerate downwards, so you can say the bulk of the charge is between 53v and 43v. Each 1v change is 10% of your battery and 48v is half-full.

I have been away for a few days exploring Australia. The LCD says 50.1 which suggests that I have more than bf my juice left. Result thanks