375 miles need new brake pads!

[crE]

Thanks trex. You mean prolonging the life of the rims as apposed to pads? Or both?

 

[JamesW]

trex

I see these
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarks-CPS501-Replacement-Cycle-Component/dp/B005PVLSLO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416847140&sr=8-1&keywords=Clarks+Gold+72mm+Bike
on amazon...
does this mean that once the brake is setup, the pads can be replaced but the brake will not have to be removed and realigned?

(How do these work?)

James

 

[trex]

you pay extra money on the first pair of pads.
then later pull off the worn shoes and push on new shoes.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarks-CPS513-Brake-Cycle-Component/dp/B005PVLSP0/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y
they save time. The best brakes for e-bikes are hydraulic brakes..

 

[patpatbut]

I have to agree with Trex.
I was on rim brake before (even with a very good quality one) and they went so quickly as well as lost the braking power
I am now on M615 hydraulic brakes and the braking power remains the same after 4000miles (same pad)

 

[JamesW]

But that requires buying a frame, forks and new front hub motor that takes disc brakes as far as I am concerned. New pads and the occasional rim is cheaper!

 

[cwah]

I have to agree with Trex.
I was on rim brake before (even with a very good quality one) and they went so quickly as well as lost the braking power
I am now on M615 hydraulic brakes and the braking power remains the same after 4000miles (same pad)

What pad are you using? Probably not resin?

 

[JamesW]

Just a normal rubber block from my LBS. As he charges me £5/pair I will be getting some of the Clarkes ones today!

 

[Nealh]

4k miles is excellant but depends on journeys times and distance, longer distance/journey time usally means less brake use whilst shorter journeys are local and usually require more frequent stops. My bike has done about 1400 very local miles in a year on B01S resins 360 of them are electric miles the pads are still viable, I should be able to get another 300 out of them.

 

[crE]

Looks like I'll just keep buying a regular supply of pads and change them every month or so. At 1.99 each that's not too bad. Cheaper than petrol!

 

[RobF]

Looks like I'll just keep buying a regular supply of pads and change them every month or so. At 1.99 each that's not too bad. Cheaper than petrol!

Hydraulic discs are 100 per cent better.

All you might lose is the cut-out, which wouldn't bother me if it were my bike.

 

[crE]

Hydraulic discs are 100 per cent better.

All you might lose is the cut-out, which wouldn't bother me if it were my bike.

It would bother me. There's a couple of times I'd have rammed into the back of a car without it!

 

[JamesW]

It would bother me. There's a couple of times I'd have rammed into the back of a car without it!

not required to do that. there are more than a few threads on this forum that I have been reading in the last week where people have made their own cutouts for better quality brake levers (including hydraulic ones) by simply mounting a reed switch on the brake mount and a magnet on the lever. When the lever is pulled towards the mount, the reed is closed and the cutout is triggered as the short is caused. - not difficult to do, just requires a bit of tinkering.!

 

[patpatbut]

What pad are you using? Probably not resin?

Original that came with it. I am running my bike at 15mph max so possibly why it has not wore that quail like yours

 

[JamesW]

Original that came with it. I am running my bike at 15mph max so possibly why it has not wore that quail like yours

are you trying to say that some of us are on the slightly larger side if we are wearing our brakes out faster than you?

 

[patpatbut]

I remember cwah running his bike over 25mph so

 

[MikeRo]

Here they are. Dead!

Plenty of life left in those. Just need a clean up with a knife and more regular adjustment...

 

[crE]

Really? I was adjusting them with my allen key and even when perfectly aligned they hardly gripped... am I doing something wrong?

 

[Alan Quay]

Really? I was adjusting them with my allen key and even when perfectly aligned they hardly gripped... am I doing something wrong?

Just checking, and forgive me if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but you have pulled the cable up? Once pad position is set, you rarely need to re-adjust (perhaps once) during the life of the pad. Adjusting the cable however, needs to be done regularly, every few hundred miles, and more often on a new cable.

Those pads look ok to me. I use cheapo pads, ride it like I stole it, and I'm the wrong side of 17 stone. My pads do at least 1500 miles.

 

[JamesW]

I'd second that. My pads are more worn than that and I only replace them when they are worn all they way down to the groves on part of the pad. Your pads look only half used by my standards!

 

[MikeRo]

Really? I was adjusting them with my allen key and even when perfectly aligned they hardly gripped... am I doing something wrong?

Its quite easy to get it wrong with all the possible adjustments - could be worth spending a few hours googling 'how to adjust bike brakes' for some tips?