3-D Printer

Woosh

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I did try looking for Cura 4.x but the best I came up with was a github repository which tbh didn't seem to have any executables in it.

I'm a bit of a numpty where github is concerned - I like fully packaged installations, double click and all that, lol.
I downloaded Cura 5.4 here:
 
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guerney

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Hermes Evri, used them a lot though one time they sent me an invoice demanding more money for two overweight parcels they said they'd weighed on their super weighing machine! I knew they were well under weight. I asked why they'd delivered the evidence if this was the case. I could even see the photographic evidence of delivery on my Hermes Evri account. They eventually cancelled the invoices.
I dread Hermes/Evripackagelost deliveries and avoid them like the plague they are. I assume because of couriers thieving packages, they recently started photographing me while handing over a package, which will I guess enable AI to rule the world by taking over 3D printers to print themselves massive weaponed armies with superior bodied minds than normal humans. Annoyingly, some snap pics while delivering packages they could easily have posted through the letterbox.
 
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portals

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I did try looking for Cura 4.x but the best I came up with was a github repository which tbh didn't seem to have any executables in it.

I'm a bit of a numpty where github is concerned - I like fully packaged installations, double click and all that, lol.
Cura 4.13.1:

Expand the [Assets] tab to see the .exe Windows installer - install this.

I just upgraded from 4.10.0 to 4.13.1 on Win7 Mackbook Pro until I have some time to mess on my Win10 workstation to get 5.x working.

54770
 

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Bikes4two

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  • Hi @portal that link takes me to cura 5.x which I've already tried without success
  • Evri finally delivered the printer this afternoon and on the supplied TF card was Cura 4.8 which seemed to install fine but when you launch it it goes so far and then disappears
  • The card had a test buddha with the stl and gcode files so without doing any calibration I printed it using the supplied white pla.
  • Then I downloaded a Benchy stl and ran it through Prusaslicer with little knowledge of how best to set it up and printed that off too.
  • So I've now two test pieces to examine and look to how to improve them plus PID tuning and extruder calibration.
  • Huge fun - I'm hooked me thinks :)
 
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portals

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  • Hi @portal that link takes me to cura 5.x which I've already tried without success
  • Evri finally delivered the printer this afternoon and on the supplied TF card was Cura 4.8 which seemed to install fine but when you launch it it goes so far and then disappears
  • The card had a test buddha with the stl and gcode files so without doing any calibration I printed it using the supplied white pla.
  • Then I downloaded a Benchy stl and ran it through Prusaslicer with little knowledge of how best to set it up and printed that off too.
  • So I've now two test pieces to examine and look to how to improve them plus PID tuning and extruder calibration.
  • Huge fun - I'm hooked me thinks :)
The link works however it's in chronological order of releases so most recent at top of page, SCROLL DOWN for the 4.13.1 release or just search the page (CTRL+F) for it....

I'm using it now on Win7 laptop, try 4.13.1, just run the .exe and installer should remove older version first. Setup a profile for you printer (YT vids it if there isn't a default for your specific printer as this dictates bed size etc.).

Well done on getting your first prints off the bed!

Post some close ups of the benchy!

I'd bin the PLA they supplied as it will likely be junk and more than likely to give you your first clog (then the real fun begins!). I'd order some branded PLA/PLA+ (Eryone/Sunlu/Jayo/eSun), I trust these brands. When you have multiple rolls to expand you colour range you can keep them in airtight ziplock bags with a sachet of dessicant to keep the dry if you suffer from moisture.

Personally I have all my rolls on two broom handles in kitchen....not really had any issues and you can always very carefully dry it for a while in the oven.

If you haven't already and none came with printer buy some spare nozzles ASAP, after any clog I bin nozzle and replace as they are very cheap.

PID should ensure that the nozzle heats to then stays at the temp you select with as little fuss as possible, eSteps are important to stop under/over extrusion.

Is there a 'test' print option in the firmware ABL so you can print a test pattern and make sure the z-offset is optimal? First layer is critical with FDM, too low and deposited filament is pushed around by nozzle, too high not enough squish on first level. Like this. You print out and examine closely, then increase z, print check, reduce then check etc. to find optimal z.

Gl!

54773
 
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soundwave

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54774


:p
 

soundwave

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Bikes4two

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I downloaded Cura 5.4 here:
  • I've tried 5.4 and now 5.5 - installation goes fine then on launching I get the report (below) saying that I need OpenGL 2.0 or higher.
  • I checked that my laptop drivers were upto date (2016! -Win 10 but a good few years old now) and after watching how to install OpenGL (YT Vid here) I abandoned the idea.
  • Now off to find Cura 4.13.1 as per post by @portals
54777
 

Bikes4two

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Hi @portals
The link works however it's in chronological order of releases so most recent at top of page, SCROLL DOWN for the 4.13.1 release or just search the page (CTRL+F) for it....
SCROLL DOWN - durgh, found it - I told you I was a github numpty and not helped by vireing the link first time around on my phone !:(

So yes, 4.13.1 installed and working - that version didn't have Elegoo printers listed but thanks to this YT vide here which lead to Github resources here, that's sorted.

I'll post my first Benchy pic later but in the meantime I'm off to research 'Benchy faults' as the first few layers are not smooth at all.

Thanks for your help in all of this - much appreciated.
 

Bikes4two

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Post some close ups of the benchy!
Currently attempting my 3rd benchy - the first one looked fine apart from the first 5mm or so and the writing on the underside was illegible. My printer has ABL with manual Z-axis setting ( the A4 paper method) and this was around -2.58. My mistake was in Prusaslicer where I entered this value too, not realising that this doubled the off-set - durgh.

The second attempt was without putting the Z offset in the slicer - it was going well so I popped out for some shopping and came back to a pile of spaghetti - the print had become dislodged half way through and the underside printing was still rubbish.

Third print underway as I write (and going well according to my remote 'Alfred' enabled phone) having carefully re-measured Z offset and made it a little tighter shall we say.

I'd order some branded PLA/PLA+ (Eryone/Sunlu/Jayo/eSun), I trust these brands. When you have multiple rolls to expand you colour range you can keep them in airtight ziplock bags with a sachet of dessicant to keep the dry if you suffer from moisture.
. Thanks for the pointers - have just ordered up some PLA from Sunlu.
PID should ensure that the nozzle heats to then stays at the temp you select with as little fuss as possible, eSteps are important to stop under/over extrusion.
I've done the PID calibration and entered the derived values into memory. The 'console' function I used was that in Pronterface but on my laptop there is only a very small area to see the console output, so I'll be looking for another app for that - any recommendations?

The eSteps thing - I need to re-read up on that - I measured 100mm on the PLA and on executing an extraction of that amount, only 93mm was put through so now I need to know what to do with that figure.

Is there a 'test' print option in the firmware ABL so you can print a test pattern and make sure the z-offset is optimal?
Not on my printer - I'm wondering if there is a test print out there for me to use?
 

portals

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Currently attempting my 3rd benchy - the first one looked fine apart from the first 5mm or so and the writing on the underside was illegible. My printer has ABL with manual Z-axis setting ( the A4 paper method) and this was around -2.58. My mistake was in Prusaslicer where I entered this value too, not realising that this doubled the off-set - durgh.
Only set z on printer, never in slicer else you print will never print on another printer.

The second attempt was without putting the Z offset in the slicer - it was going well so I popped out for some shopping and came back to a pile of spaghetti - the print had become dislodged half way through and the underside printing was still rubbish.
Sounds like z offset is too low and nozzle is bumping in to layers. If this isn't the case it could be bed adhesion but unlikely with a PEI sheet. Move z offset as granular as you can.

I've done the PID calibration and entered the derived values into memory. The 'console' function I used was that in Pronterface but on my laptop there is only a very small area to see the console output, so I'll be looking for another app for that - any recommendations?
I use my printer's community firmware on my printer for this.

The eSteps thing - I need to re-read up on that - I measured 100mm on the PLA and on executing an extraction of that amount, only 93mm was put through so now I need to know what to do with that figure.
So you are under-extruding a little, there should be a setting where you can input the offset of 7mm and it will calculate a new eStep

Not on my printer - I'm wondering if there is a test print out there for me to use?
Search for '3D printer bed level test', you want a pretty flat print that covers most of build plate.
 
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guerney

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3D Capture, for Everyone
LiDAR scanning and photogrammetry made easy.





 
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portals

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Problem with these 3D scanners is that they don't really work that well and give average results at best unless you spend 6 figures and go with an automotive scanner (JLR do all final car body modelling using clay by hand with highly skilled workers that they then scan to laptops).

Depends really what you want to do, if it's scanned object to 3D print then good luck as the scanning tech is way behind the 3D printers in the sense that they are now getting closer to genuine plug'n'play, 3D scanners have a way to go yet with resolution and AI.

I messed 3 years ago with photogrammetry (the art of constructing a 3D object by stitching together lots of 2D images from all angles). I wanted to scan and pimp up 1:32 scale slot cars.

This is the result of hours of work in Blender (not the easiest to learn IMHO), do you think it was worth it?
 

Woosh

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Generative AI is pretty close to be adapted to generate 3D models from what the computer sees. I was watching a demo video about a month ago. A month is a long time in the world of AI.
 

portals

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if it's scanned object to 3D print then good luck as the scanning tech is way behind the 3D printers tech

I look forward to being proved wrong....however not in the next 5+ yrs. As I said, it really depends what you're trying to achieve. S2P (scan to print), doesn't really exist yet without serious intervention.

I also look forward to AI that can control a camera around the object you want to scan, say a D&D character/1:32 slot car/large Cathedral.

One day swarms of tiny drones with crazy hi-res cameras will capture anything we want in secs until then probably I pass.
 
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guerney

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Printed robots with bones, ligaments, and tendons
For the first time, researchers have succeeded in printing a robotic hand with bones, ligaments and tendons made of different polymers using a new laser scanning technique.


 
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