Search results

I didn't intend any sarcasm, sorry if it came across that way. I was suggesting an alternative if solid tyres don't work out or prove expensive.

That's what I was describing in my original post, only without using the name of just one particular make of tube ;)

True - maybe my choice of words wasn't the best. For small punctures that you can stick a patch on, I don't remove the wheel. But if it's a split or a pinch that you have to swap the tube for then you would.

If you have a hub motor, repairing a puncture with minimal tools at the side of the road can be awkward due to the wiring and weight. Even more so with a rear one. Hence alternatives to having to remove the wheel are useful. Obviously not an issue with mid-drive, or if you have a rear puncture...

As an alternative way to deal with a rear puncture, have you considered taking a double ended (sausage) inner tube and means to inflate it? They're very popular now for emergencies and not as expensive as you might think. The big thing is that you don't have to take the wheel off to put it in...

I tend not to, but then the only time I leave the bike unattended is when I've nipped to the shops on it. So it'd be annoying that I've had a £180 battery stolen, but still easy enough to cycle home without the motor. If I was leaving it all day at the railway station, then I probably would...

Yes - there are several hydrid cars using an engine that doesn't drive the wheels directly (or only does in some situations). I quite like the idea of having a small but very efficient constant rpm engine driving a generator to replenish the battery. And that engine should run on propane, not...

Not fitting into the current definition of a EAPC could be an issue - although I'm sure a new class could be created. But yes, chains and belts do a pretty good job of transferring power from legs to wheels, and using a generator and motor doesn't really seem to bring anything that useful. I...

Mine don't, but then they wouldn't as it's a front wheel hub motor ;)

Insurance is good, but from the experience of friends who have had their bike stolen, it can take months before you get a payout - leaving you with no bike (and possibly expense because you've not got to use public transport or a car to get to work). With a tracker you have an additional chance...

As above, this site is focused on pedelecs (or electrically assisted pedal cycle, EAPC) - ie bicycles that gain electrical assistance only when the pedals are being turned. It exists as the pure electrical powered vehicle community already has sites such as Endless Sphere. I suspect you could...

I guess not as there could be a risk that you let go of the bike and it trundles off into the sunset on its own. For example the cruise control mode on KT controllers requires you to be pedalling to enable it (also by holding the down button) - making it much harder to accidentally engage when...

If it's on an electric bike, then it might be better to find a way to keep the tracker battery charged using the bike's battery - keeping it properly hidden and making it more difficult for a potential thief to remove. Assuming it charges from USB, you should be able to find a suitable 5V...

The 15mph assistance limit I find not to be an issue - it's getting up to speed that's tiring, and maintaining 15-20mph without assistance on flattish roads isn't such a chore. From setting off you get a big boost and you're up to 15mph in a few dozen metres, then you're pedalling with no...

Heh - I can see now that the one in the photo has fewer pins. Wasn't as clear when I was posting earlier from my phone!

Does this look like it matches? https://www.pandaebikes.com/shop/extras/motor-cable-hall-effect-female-waterproof-male-waterproof-panda-pro/

You can get GPS trackers that take a SIM card (use a PAYG low usage one that only needs one text or call a year to stay active) that are the size of a cigarette lighter from China for £10. Probably easier to fit on a bike. They are designed for cars though, so require a 12V supply. My friends...

I think for a lot of people, fitting a £200 motor/controller/display kit and a £200 battery to a second hand bike costing under £100, effectively gives you a great entrance into EAPCs for a similar cost to an average non-powered bike. So maybe getting that person cycling more than if they'd...

My 12 magnet PAS only works on setting 08, which isn't a valid setting according to the LCD3 manuals I can find. I don't really care though as it works :)

Been very happy with my Panda 250W Pro kit. Controller, PAS and display are Kunteng (LCD3 on mine), motor is Xiongda I think (probably YTW03, but there's nothing useful printed on it). All fairly standard reasonably good quality Chinese parts. I chose to source my battery elsewhere though.