Search results

THANK YOU, Nealh, that's incredibly helpful! :) Have been looking for a test like this for ages. Do you still have the link to the original thread? Would love a similar graph with capacity in Wh on the y-axis. Also: Am I assuming correctly that they charged with 1A and discharged with 2.5A?

I can't really tell the difference between the two battery packs in real world use and I don't pay much attention. Both are fine. Will be interesting to see the remaining capacity after a year. Got them from nkon.nl - don't remember the price. Yes, the smartphone app for the Bluetooth BMS shows...

Oh, in case anyone is interested: I also charge laptop, drone batteries and Photo/Film equipment with my battery packs, using a 36V to 13.8V DC/DC converter and then using car chargers to charge my electronics. If you ever try to do this, do NOT buy a 36V to 12V DC/DC converter. Many "12V" car...

MJ1 for one pack and 35E for the other. BMS is a 30A Bluetooth BMS. Don't remember what the balancing current is, but I've checked the cell-voltages dozens of times and there were always perfectly balanced.

Yes, I have two 10s9p batteries in Reention DP-9 cases.

Well, either that or I could carry a reactor of a decommissioned nuclear submarine on my rear trailer. I hope I'll find one on ebay!

I've never seen a public 100W USB-C PD charger in the wild, so this wouldn't be too useful for me personally. I'm using a 400W charger on my trips, so 100W would be way too slow. If you want to tinker with the concept, make sure that you use a CC/CV DC/DC coverter for charging lithium batteries.

I thought about this, but the problem with this concept might be the limited charge options. You can't charge at Starbucks, can't charge at most hotels, can't charge at the pub when you're having dinner. I went with 2 removable Reention dp-9 batteries with 90 cells each. One is in the frame...

Someone above mentioned the risk of having your charger stolen when anyone walking past can just unplug it. So my response to that was to screw the charger to the frame somehow. I'm not overly concerned with that, because the benefits of street-charging would outweigh the risk for me.

I would have to find a way to hard-mount a waterproof charger to the bike with security bolts. Grin's cycle satiator is waterproof and has mounting holes, but it's really expensive. I do both wild camping, campsites and sometimes hotels. I regularly cover 100 miles per day, so having...

By the way - The Netherlands and Germany have a lot of these Ebike charging stations and they are usually free. This would be ideal, but I've never seen one in the UK.

Yes, I'm in the UK (Brighton). The theoretical idea was to camp on some campsite and then ride into a town in the morning, plug the bike into a car charger, do some site-seeing and cycle on when the bike is fully charged. Or just randomly top up the battery for an hour whenever I come across...

Hey everyone! I do a lot of long distance ebike camping touring and battery range is just always an issue. Sometimes I can't charge overnight and I have to find different ways to top up. I always liked the idea of being able to charge my bike using Street EV chargers for electric cars, since...

You left the throttle at 100%. If I adjust the throttle to get to 15mph on both systems, both end up at "Electrical power = 86W". Am I using this incorrectly? "Using the Throttle Slider Many people overlook the fact that there is a throttle slider and only bother looking at the full throttle...

Thank you for your detailed explanation! I will be going 15mph most of the time, so is there any way to quantify the "inefficiency" of a 48V system at a low speed?

I switched to a custom battery and made both batteries the exact same capacity of 825 Wh at 36V and 48V. Same human power input, same overheat-time, same range, same Wh/mile consumption, same speed. Where is the flaw in my thinking?

The human power input is set to 100W in both systems. And both systems (the 36V at 100% and the 48% at 76%) produce the same power output of 725W. I still don't get why I would have to pedal harder with the 48V system.

Thank you. When I adjust the 48V throttle to 76% so that both systems move at the same speed, both systems overheat after 7 minutes and both have the same Wh/mile consumption. So is one more efficient than the other at the same speed?

Oh, you're right - I haven't clarified this sufficently: The controller has a 25A peak rating, but is set up in a way that it doesn't peak over 700W. According to Grin Technologies, 700W is the maximum that the G310 can handle (which is more than enough for me). I have the 13T version, which...

Noone said anything about 1200W or 25A. I want 5A*48V continuous and 15A*48V peak. So my question is whether or not that would be considered legal, because I'm not increasing the continuous power output.