Search results

This is what happens when d8veh is trying the decaf coffee.

I got a dremel 4000 a couple of years ago, it's well made and found it very handy for allsorts also with that flexi thing all in a strong bag, then put it away. Over a year later I get it out to use and could not figure out how to assemble all those tiny cwickclip tool parts. Might need to read...

I am retiring my first original battery which has done me proud. 10aH Bottle battery, cost £230, aprox 13'000 miles, 3 years old, used for 20-miles daily. We've had a good 3 years together used daily through all weathers and even submerged through knee high deep floods but is now at the point...

Lipo batteries need care when being used, I thought you were familiar with high power batteries so if your not familiar with lipo's then maybe for safety stick with li-ion cells but I still use those low voltage alarms on small li-ion packs I make up without BMS. Back to your original question...

Possibly the XF08-CST kit from Woosh at £499. If you need a 700c wheel I think Woosh will change it for a reasonable fee. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits Also the OxyDrive Kit at £525 http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/electric-bike-kit/oxydrive-cst-ht-13ah.html Both kits take cassettes

I've had some in my garage at storage volts for a couple years just cycled every 6 months or so (if that) and mine still appear ok. Maybe a couple of these (not sure what country they are shipped from though) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-6s-20c-lipo-pack.html would give 12s in...

You don't need China to get a battery made, if you don't fancy the rc-lipo route then give Jimmy a call at Insat, he gets highly regarded on this forum. http://www.bga-reworking.co.uk/

Thanks d8veh, a bit of heatshrink should shrink itself on and hopefully won't over heat. It has an unused leg, was I supposed to connect both outer legs to the pcb?

I ordered a couple of each type of diodes and the schottky has arrived first so have soldered it in like this - from the pcb to an outer leg, then the middle stub to the outgoing cable and that reduces the volt's about 0.2v which is pretty much good enough. Does this look safe to use long term...

Got some Left-hand ones delivered pretty quick. Fits good replacing the front gear changer shifter which I never use anyway for the thumb throttle and works ok.

And lastly this non-drive side bearing taps out easily using the socket idea I got from this forum. This one is a 6904RS 20x37x9 and still spins smooth but since I'm changing the others I will change it anyway.

Got this inner bearing out simply by screwing some M5 bolts through from the outside of the sideplate to push it out. This one too is all rusted/gunked up and grinds round. It is a 6811 RS 55x72x9

I've just discovered a second brass shim on the motor shaft, so there must have been 2 shims between the inner bearing & shaft shoulder, so shouid I put one on the outside between the outer bearing & locknut when I re-assemble?

Oops, I can only find one, that brass one in the top photo. Any idea where I can get some spares?

Bingo !!! Thanks both for the help. Both spot on. Pressing as I did would never have done it as a circlip was holding the inside bearing in place but loosened the spacer enough to move it to the side and get a pin-punch down to the outer bearing and after warming the body it tapped out, then...

Any idea how to get the bearings out of a Bafang CST motor ratchet part? My inside one I'm pointing at had seized which I've now got turning but it feels like it's got sand paper in there. I've tried pressing them out with a socket and vice which has loosened a spacer between the 2 bearings but...

I was about to purchase all the gear I thought was correct with the help given but got thinking about what Tabs said above about a dusk til dawn sensor which made me realize I didn't want it activating during the day, so am now considering a plan-B which may be a 36v bike light and switch for...

Thanks for those great replies. Am going to try schottky diode first with it's smaller -0.5v drop and started to research how to wire/solder it in. This made me discover there is one already on there Part Num MBR20200CT 200v 20A Is there a way to check this one is within spec or could I simply...

Calculations like that at 1am, that's incredible.

I tried a couple of different cell meters while it was charging to confirm and started sweating when they were flicking up to 4.22v. I also thought about it being within a tolerance so cannot complain to the supplier and decided I wanted it just under 25v if possible by adding/changing a part.