Search results

It wasn't really a rant, it was just observations, the guy with the cheaper ebike is happy with his choice. I've got a Mirider 1. The cheap ebike was a "Hitway" foldable electric bike. The frame and general design looks a lot like mine.

l think the law of diminishing returns applies, as suggested above. l would say that any ebike under £1,000 is better off rigid (no suspension) The guy who owns the £700 ebike l mentioned above thinks it's great and highly recommended it to me.

l paid £1500 for my folding ebike and have seen plenty of bikes at half the price, making me wonder if l had spent too much. l've also had people on the forum tell me that my bike was too expensive and l can get a similar one for half the price. Today l had a chance to try a folding ebike...

lt doesn't happen around here, but it does happen in London where my brother lived. My guess is that the more clogged with cars a place is, the less patient the car drivers become, and also the cyclists become more mercenary. Not all drivers/cyclists of course, just some.

lt could depend on where in the country you are. Round here l've never had any issues cycling on the road. But my brother lived in London for some years, commuted by bike, and it's a lot worse there, caused in part by the behaviour of cyclists but also the mentality of car drivers in the City.

That's a great offer. But if there's an issue elsewhere could the new controller not be damaged by connecting it to the system? Who knows what's been done to the wiring or other parts by persons unknown

Go for the larger battery, as already said you can't have too much reserve. My Kona has a 504Wh battery and it's barely enough. Even not using "Turbo" l can rinse the battery in thirty miles.

Nobody?

Ah l was talking about efficiency of the actual transformer and not the entire power supply. l guess it's the power supply as a whole that matters really, as you say.

You think £60 is expensive for a charger try buying a replacement one for a Bosch or Shimano ebike http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313567382542?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RaQaCPDuS3a&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Cj4IjO6GTG6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Anyone bought one, what do you think of it?

Beware of fake parts being sold on popular internet auction sites. l've had loads of issues with fake parts that either don't work at all, or fail within a short time.

The device will likely have failed because some other component has failed, such as a capacitor or resistor. lf you just replace the mosfet it's likely to fail instantly when you plug the charger in. You could give it a try though, you never know you might get lucky.

Gear changes will be clunky if you change under full power, particularly in the highest power mode. I have the same issue on my Kona (Shimano E8000) Unfortunately it's difficult to avoid as it takes a second for the power to cut off after you stop pedalling, presumably to make the bike...

Cheap and poorly designed SMPS can have an efficiency of 50-60% A good one would be 80% efficient Also the better ones will have plated through holes in the PCB so you shouldn't get issues with poor solder joints.

Transformers are actually very efficient, IRO 95-98% as opposed to a SMPS which is 85-90% Switch Mode power supplies can get very warm in use, but as long as you can keep your hand on the casing it's most likely okay With any power supply, the best thing is to derate it, for instance if you...

Be careful when randomly drilling holes in the case! Taking the casing apart to drill the holes would be better, but also be aware that by drilling holes in the casing, you are compromising the insulation of the device. Make sure it's not possible to touch anything inside the casing when...

As long as you're not running the charger over it's rated capacity it will be fine. lf it needed a cooling fan, the manufacturer would have installed one.

lf the charger is a good one, such as a branded Shimano or Cube etc the heat won't harm it, many are encapsulated in resin. The resin draws heat away from the components and because of this the casing will get warmer than you might think is "normal"

The motors, speed controllers and displays will be absolutely fine after two years storage. They would only come to grief if the bikes were stored in a damp environment. l believe some controllers have a small backup battery (mine must have because it will still come on without the battery...