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Simple job to fit the two pin connector from the old base to the new. Just be careful to get the polarity right. I would cut off the connector and sufficient cable from the old base, cut off the bullet connectors from the new one, and solder the old wires to the new. Then cover with several...

Without a full view of the triangle hard to say. Clearly the new base plate needs fitting and the connectors sorting out. I would remove the old base plate and offer up the new battery plus plate to see if it physically fits the space first, and go from there.

I drove small vans for years before my ebike came along, Transit Connect then Fiat Doblo, and routinely found it necessary to be altering head position even just in bends to have an adequate view of the road.

The car should have waited, but as a rider I would anticipate a reasonably high chance that they would not unless forced to by me taking the lane. So I would ride assertively in the middle of the lane, upright, hands on brakes, slowing and ready to stop, eye contact directed at the oncoming driver.

https://www.coireglas.com/ Some new pumped storage coming along. The most effective answer is to use less, also still the cheapest. Liz Truss wasted enough money in her wasted few days to have paid for energy efficient upgrades of a fair chunk of all of the UK's households.

Maybe three will turn up at once...

If you're lucky, you'll find some sticking out of a skip and be able to experiment for free. Cable ties for impermanent permanent fixings. And add Screwfix to diy stores as sources, although to order usually rather than off the shelf.

Any large diy store will likely have the 10mm thickness, which gives good stiffness. Can be cut with a normal wood saw if too big to transport whole.

There are vague references here and there to a 400% maximum assistance level, which a large company making TS bikes might feel obliged to comply with.

Your link shows a rear hub motor, not in hub gears. If hub motor then 20% gradient will likely be a problem on those occasions when you are tired or heavily laden. No substitute for a test ride, even if not exactly the same bike just to get some understanding of how an ebike is affected by hills.

Polycarbonate twinwall is what you need. Offcuts from a conservatory roof perhaps, but not hugely expensive new.

My 418Wh Shimano is 2.7kg, so you are likely to be right on the limit. Either roll the dice and hope for the best, or split into two parcels by packing wheels and saddle separately.

The hub bike shop kindly let me charge whilst I ate in the hub cafe when I passed by recently.

Google crank shorteners. Several companies have made such things, worth seeing if they still do.

A 34 tooth chainring on a TSDZ2 will give poor chainline in the lower gears. The standard ring is dished so that the teeth are more onboard than a flat ring, but that does not work below 42T. For lowish MTB type gearing, try a cassette with 50T or so lowest gear.

Nearly home! Lunch in my regular last charging stop, the Real Food Cafe in Tyndrum, and then 37 miles to go. 25 main road then welcome last 12 on lanes. A bit of a soft deadline, last ferry at 6pm, but I don't need to be home until tomorrow, so no crisis if I miss it. Hammering down with rain...

Eating chocolate seems to help too! Today has turned out nice after two torrential hours first thing. I have a nice long charging stop at Abington services, went in like a drowned rat and emerged to light drizzle which within an hour was blue sky. Now recharging again in Wetherspoon's right...

What a wet day! From just south of Sedbergh to halfway between Carlisle and Lockerbie, just incessant drizzle. Just a tiny interlude in Cavendish Gardens, where it is always sunny, but even there the road surface was mysteriously damp. And then after an hour of chasing the edge of the clouds...

Include a fuse in the feed, and make sure it is a suitably small rating. Then any electrical fault in the converter will blow the fuse, not trash your battery or cause a fire. Many fuse collections only go down to 5A, which is far more than my 36V to 5V, 3A converter will ever draw from the 36V.

I use DC/DC converters on my solar setup, but in the pure Shimano downtube battery setup I have no access to the 36V supply. So all charging has to happen from the mains in my charging stops. Phone, camera and lights are more of a problem to keep up than the bike!