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Next step - shunt mod :) Really obvious difference when comparing 24v no mod with 36v with 1/2 shunt soldered...

Excellent advice as always d8veh! :cool: That was the problem - everything's working fine now :) A note for anyone buying one of these controllers - it really is a tight fit. After some experimentation, i found the best way to get everything into the controller compartment was to loosen the...

Everything seems to be working fine other than pedal assist. The sensor is wired up as follows: Sensor Red (+5v) = controller Red (+5v) Sensor Black (0v) = controller Black (0v) Sensor Green (signal) = controller Blue (signal) Magnet strip / sensor look to be properly positioned - not sure...

I've ordered one for my current Rat - hopefully it'll do the job :) Gave up on the Chinese OEM's in the end - too difficult to communicate with them...

Think I've found a low cost UK supplier for replacement controllers, although I'm not entirely sure about the brake wiring. The unit's 94x51x29mm, which is about the same as the standard one (if you include the wiring grommets) and looks as though it will fit in the space... Any thoughts on...

Although Cypress MCU's support In System Serial Programming (ISSP - see: In - System Serial Programming (ISSP) CY3207ISSP Software v1.999 - Cypress Semiconductor) it looks as though the USB interface provided by the controller manufacturer is I2C based and only allows you to tune parameters in...

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Cyclamatics are currently priced at £499 on Ebay folks... :)

Yep :), particularly one that will drop straight into the Cyclamatic wiring loom and fit into the limited space available in the standard set-up...

Direct from LSDZS (the original manufacturer of the Cyclamatic motor controller). Started chatting about their LSW70 controller with one of their more 'switched on' tech sales staff, who has good English. Great to know it will be possible to change the settings of a controller after purchase -...

Programmer for LSWx controllers... Some more interesting news from LSDZ - it seems you can program their LSWx controllers using the device pictured below :D At the moment, you have to send them a list of the parameters you want changed and they'll send a file back which you can use to update...

I checked my main bike and the white wires were not connected, which may explain its top speed of 26mph on the flat - pretty much in line with the LSDZS spec... Disconnected it on the Rat and noticed an immediate top speed improvement :) Here's the data sheet for the MCU chip in the...

Wiring loom - offical manual... Some interesting info from LSDZS (the original manufacturer of the Cyclamatic motor controller). It seems that the odd 'white wire' coming out of the controller and going straight back in is in fact the a speed limit selector signal. If the connection is made...

I'm struggling to make my mind up about the parameter set to send the manufacturers if I decide to go that route. Advantages are that the unit should fit without problems, is basically the standard one with some upgrades and could be programmed for different power limits / batt protection...

Was thinking more of the 3 phase power cables which carry the main power to the motor. When I opened my 36v controller compartment up the other day to compare the connections with the Rat, found a couple of the wires had partly melted insulation and some evidence of arcing. The idea is to get...

Anyone have any thoughts on replacing the 3 phase power wires from the controller to the motor. The standard ones are really quite skinny. Have noticed some signs of the wires overheating on my 36v bike and imagine beefier ones will help with power delivery to the motor...

I contacted the original manufacturers of the standard controller last night and asked for some pricing on their current LSW70A model (spec: Nanjing Lishui Electronics Research Institute Co.,Ltd. www.lsdzs.com). Seems well featured, with for example cruise control and regen braking options...

Ah - just a bit too big for the original box then - 80 x 42 x 26mm internal dimensions...

Nice idea d8veh :) Worth a try, i should think... Another possibility might be to use the original controller box - do you happen to know the size of the KU63 PCB? From this pic, it looks to be quite a bit smaller than the case it's in...

Have tried the good bike controller and batt plugged into the faulty bike's back wheel - runs smooth as silk :) On the other hand, plugging the faulty bike's controller and batt into the good bike's back wheel gives the original fault. Tried batt from good bike on faulty bike - issue remains...