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No response from Bike Discount, to date :(

Certainly looks very heavily built for a narrow chain, although the box says 'E-Bike 7E8 narrow', as advertised. Guess they must have put the wrong chain in the box as some point during production. Will drop them a line and see what they say...

Hmm - Wippermann chain arrived and although marked as a 'narrow' type on the box, appears to be 2mm+ wider than the original. Not sure if I'm missing something here, but fitted it and now can't seem to adjust it in a way that prevents gears slipping / chain rubbing against gears / mech...

Thanks folks - the Wippermann looked good quality for reasonable price, so went with that...

Hi, have been having some difficulty finding a supplier for 124 link chains to fit the Cyclamatic Mk1 MTB. Understand it should be a 7 speed type, but 124 (or greater) link items seem very hard to find and not sure which type to use (i.e. link length) although guessing it's likely a common sort...

Yep - was thinking about how the water got in there but guess unless the motor were airtight, you're going to get condensation in cold weather. Gave everything a thin coat of lithium grease, which should help prevent surface rust in future hopefully...

Whacked the wheel with the side of a big wrench and it freed up third time! Genius! Made my day! :D Noticed that rotating the wheel backwards caused it to stick again, but a few more whacks and it freed. Had to repeat about 5 times, but seems rotating the wheel backwards then whacking...

Yep - you've described the symptoms exactly - drag in both directions and the free-wheel seems to be working (so can't be that), as can still hear the 'tick tick' in forward motion. Funny - was reading one of your earlier posts about whacking the wheel with a hammer earlier on - the direct...

Regreased gears with lithium, cleaned rust from surfaces as far as possible, tapped the clutch cover repeatedly with a hammer to try to free it, then reassembled and refitted the motor. One useful trick is to locate the axle in the dropout on the non cable side first and tighten the nut - makes...

Gears look fine. Not sure how to test the clutch. Rotating the rotor turns the planetary gears as expected, so not obvious what to check next... Thinking about regreasing - the dark grey gunk is moly grease, which is lithium based apparently, so ok to mix with white lithium i guess?

Managed to get the motor apart - not hard to do, just removed the set of screws on the cassette side, the large spindle nut on the other side and tapped it through. A fair amount of water + rust in there - will post pics shortly...

Would be the first time I've had a problem with Cyclamatic motor hardware, despite much abuse! Some answers to your questions: How many of the three halls switch on/off when you rotate the wheel backwards? None - Lyen tester shows yellow and blue phase lights both on and green off. When...

Thanks Dave - found the KU65 through one of your earlier posts - really impressive Cyclamatic compatible controller for not much money. Ordered 4 from BMS along with some thumb throttles and power meters and they delivered them within a week. The weird thing is that in sensorless mode, the...

Have just realised this is a different bike to the one mentioned at the beginning of the thread (have 3 in the house the the mo!), so not sure hardware is ok. Motor phase coils measure around 0R3. Two motor halls are high (4.6v) and one low (0v)...

Interesting - so you can 'hard reset' the controller as you might do with a laptop which is hanging on boot - makes sense :) Getting maybe initial 10mm (slow) forward movement when power applied via new BMS supplied thumb throttle and standard phase connections only. Initially thought must be...

Think the microcontroller must have been taken out when the MOSFETs blew... Bought a KU65 and fitted it, but although lights on the power meter come on and the motor sounds as it usually does, no rotation of the wheel. Could this be a stuck clutch, perhaps?

After many years of good service, my standard Cyclamatic controller cut out recently while going downhill, which was a surprise. Symptoms were clicking at the motor when the throttle was opened and no power. Got it home, opened it up and on looking it over spotted a charred spot on a 5v wire...

Thanks :) Yellow is at (switched) battery +volts and the LED's work happily when connected. Not using the white wire - always found the on/off button a pain on hills, when you accidentally touch it and loose inertia. Opened the controller up - all looks familiar - 1/3 soldered the shunt and...

...forgot to mention - there are two wires (yellow and white) which go to the throttle assembly and must be those that drive the LED's. I assume they should be connected across the battery, but am not sure of the polarity. Any advice appreciated...