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@Woosh -ahh I see what you mean, you're quite right. I've not identified a fuse for the input.

Just to confirm there is a 30Amp blade fuse located in a separate compartment under the charge point, well at least on mine!

Possibly, sorry don't mean to sound patronising but it's just to sanity check. My charger has a label on that says 42v, 2A, centre positive, does yours too? Easiest way to check if dodgy is with a multimeter if you've got one. Other sanity check, is the kettle lead fully plugged into the brick...

The battery can be charged on and off the bike. At home I take the battery off as no power in the shed, at work I keep the bike in the office and leave the battery in place. Did you definitely order a 42v charger?

I'll defer to more knowledgeable members on this forum but, if you've got a multimeter check the output of the charger, should be 42V. I've not seen a red light on the battery before. How long has it been on charge for?

@VictoryV I hope, like me, you've not lost your curiosity and are still, proverbially, "sticking hairpins into open mains sockets". I can't resist messing with things!

It took about a week for mine to come, but I don't know if that was just luck. I wasn't in a rush for it as had the OEM charger at home, I was just being cheap! Hope yours arrives soon.

The controller on my S-Cross CB states the low voltage protection cut off is 31.5V . I don't think the voltage on the display is totally accurate, I've had it read 41.5V hot off the charger but a multimeter across the terminals gives 41.8V.

What bike do you reckon is he riding in the article?

By day I'm a trainee patent attorney and trade mark attorney. Rummaging through the patent databases I think I've found the earliest patent for a hub motor (6 coil, brushed, 100A, 10V) on a bike -US552271A, attached, from 1895. There are no cranks though, so it appears to be more akin to a...

Should I ever wish to downgrade, it will probably easier to buy 3 new R002's (size 2152 again). Would something like these be suitable that are rated to 3W?

@d8veh -thanks, not as simple as I'd hoped, but will bear in mind. The contact cleaner appears to have done the trick for now, but there is clear pitting on the -ve contact, so will see how long I can get away with it for. @Mal69 -not sure. Full details here. I was using a Suntour NCX post at...

That makes sense. I can only imagine it being exacerbated if the battery is rattling about too. This has got me wondering if I could incorporate a switch if I were to replace the connector. I had thought of replacing the 30A blade fuse with one with a manual circuit breaker but I think it...

Sorry I should say that I remove the battery every day to charge as there is no power where I keep the bike. I'll give the contacts a clean and see how I go. I've put a watch on these on ebay: AMASS T PLUG AMASS T PLUG INSULATED CAP

I agree with you. I'm not impressed by this connector at all. The socket on the bike is connected to the controller with a Deans connector (irony?). I did pop the cover off the battery to see if I could easily replace the socket as I have noticed a lip of plastic building up around the -ve...

Thank you both. I had it apart yesterday for a good clean, I used emery cloth and a small needle file. I removed the fuse from the battery to start! -Made working on it much easier as far less fear of getting a shock. Anyway, I'm pleased to report I've made it worse -which is good! It now...

I've recently upgraded the calipers on my Oxygen S-Cross. I've bought a pair of these following some good review and wanting to try something knew/being wooed by the dual piston design: https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?catid=206&productid=1199 Can't comment on their operation. Sat at...

That'd be these resistors to the shunt.

@Nealh -Thanks, I was under the impression that the warranty was 2 years for mechanical components and the battery (just checked my manual and it is as stated). So I assumed the electrics was statutory 1 year. But Looking on the Oxygen website it says 2 years for electronics too. I'll take it...

What could be causing this: When cycling the display initially shows full battery charge (41.5V, the battery has been charged earlier in the day), initially all seems normal, assisting as it should. Then the assist stops, display remains on, but the display suddenly shows anything between 33v...