Yosepower hub kits.

[Scorpio]

Hi. @tunznath - many thanks for the info, now I know why I wasn't seeing what I expected.
I'm based in Portugal Algarve for the summer, will be exploring a lot more now the bike is converted & working !

 

[PC2017]

now I know why I wasn't seeing what I expected

Some of these LCDs are only programmable if software altered via a PC - I think.

 

[Trackergto]

New to this Thread and have been trawling through and can't find an answer to my problem.

Recently purchased a 36v 250w Yose Power Front Hub conversion kit of eBay and a 13aH 36v Battery from 0Green Cell.

Conversion was straight forward and works well. I want to change the LCD however to a KT LCD8H (nice separate power triggers) as the standard Yose Power LCD has small + and - Buttons.

I purchased the LCD8H only to find it doesn't work with the stock Yose Power Controller - so I'm looking to change the controller.

Any suggestions on which Controller I should go for? I believe I need a KT Controller but then need to change the P and C settings as on the Kit provided everything is preprogrammed and fairly basic.

I've been looking at the KT36/48ZWSR-ffF01 15W Controller and KT36/48ZWSRD-ffF01 17W Controller.

So my questions are, which Controller of the above? OR can should I look at others?

What are the P1 to 5 and C1 to C 14 settings I would need to programme the new controller using the Yose 36v 250w motor?

Thanks in advance

 

[tunznath]

You could have the lishui version of the yosepower hub, the one that has integrated buttons on the lcd unit, this means that you need to buy a new KT controller, new 4 into one cable that is KT Compatible and a new lcd, if you wish to change to a KT LCD, even then I am not 100% sure it may work, I was trying to get a kt screen, to sort out a issue I had with my Lishui hub kit, only to find out I also needed the cable(I already had a spare kt controller), maybe someone can jump in with hints

 

[tunznath]

New to this Thread and have been trawling through and can't find an answer to my problem.

Recently purchased a 36v 250w Yose Power Front Hub conversion kit of eBay and a 13aH 36v Battery from 0Green Cell.

Conversion was straight forward and works well. I want to change the LCD however to a KT LCD8H (nice separate power triggers) as the standard Yose Power LCD has small + and - Buttons.

I purchased the LCD8H only to find it doesn't work with the stock Yose Power Controller - so I'm looking to change the controller.

Any suggestions on which Controller I should go for? I believe I need a KT Controller but then need to change the P and C settings as on the Kit provided everything is preprogrammed and fairly basic.

I've been looking at the KT36/48ZWSR-ffF01 15W Controller and KT36/48ZWSRD-ffF01 17W Controller.

So my questions are, which Controller of the above? OR can should I look at others?

What are the P1 to 5 and C1 to C 14 settings I would need to programme the new controller using the Yose 36v 250w motor?

Thanks in advance

I was thinking to do the same seperate + - triggers are much better, await others input

 

[Nealh]

You guys are jumping in feet first without asking questions first for compatibility, you can't mix and match controllers/lcd's between brands and expect them to work.
They have different comm's protocols and software.

Lishui are harder to get hold of and are of an OEM supply only thru third party sellers.

KT are widely available from many sellers, displays are all std but use one of two connectors and they can be male or female. Whilst programming wise compatible with all KT controllers some sellers again use different connectors when they order from Kuenteng/KT some will use male or female on the controller.
When ordering you have to doubly look at the item before you place the order to confirm it has the correct/opposite connector and maker, changing/rewiring Julets is not an option, though you can buy extender cables with either end fitting to make the connection but this means you end up with lots of cable to hide.

For the uneducated or those not confident it is always best to buy form the same seller for plug and play compatibility.

Bafang for instance use the Higo connector it looks exactly like the Julet connector but not compatibke because the wire sequence order is different.

 

[Nealh]

Also now you have to be careful as Julet have bought out the Gen2 connector which is slightly longer and will not be compatible with Gen1.

 

[tunznath]

Ok Newest saga, went for a ride today and my wifes bike just stopped giving power, thought it was maybe a flat battery or thermal overload, went home tested battery volts OK, put another battery on bike still no switch on, felt controller, not hot, then thought let me check the fuse I put between battery and the rest of the system, it blew 20 amp fuse, put in a new one blew straight away, removed controller opened it and this is what I saw see pics any idea why it would look like that?, any help very much appreciated

 

[tunznath]

You can even see on the capacitor? in pic three the grey shrink film is melted,

 

[vfr400]

The capacitors wouldn't normally cause a short even if completely blown. I think that's a result of a short somewhere else. Have a look in the gap under the pcb to see if a leg is touching the case anywhere. What current and voltage are you running with?

 

[tunznath]

Running 36v and the controller has not been modded and how do I know what current Iam running? Will look under the PCB, Iit also looks like sober melted off the shunt, is there supposed to be solder on the shunt be ausrpe the shunt looks blackish and the solder looks like it has run to the left towards the mosfets? A bit more info the controller was in a bag with the batteries, i isolated the batteries from each other with foam packi g material and also the controller had some foam to stop it rubbing on the wires, I had a look in tnere and it seems the controller got really hot it has melted the foam

 

[Nealh]

If the controller got really hot then the fets might have cut out or shorted.
Was the bike being used in PAS5 or going slow up a hill ?

 

[tunznath]

See pic

 

[tunznath]

It is very strange because we have done the same route before and the controller never did this, , the motor was making a different noise to its normal whirring, it had an added noise like a piece of plastic rubbing on a tire, like a highet pitched scratch earlier in the ride

 

[tunznath]

If the controller got really hot then the fets might have cut out of shorted.
Was the bike being used in PAS5 or going slow up a hill ?

Hi NealH, it was going up a hill in PAS 5, we have no choice here everywhere is a hill, its the side of a volcano, heres a part of the route itsthe white windy bit with switchbacks

 

[Nealh]

Enclosing the controller in bubble warp adds doubly to the problem as it will not let heat to escape you helped to roast the controller, sescondly the smaller ones are only 6 mosfet and do or can get very hot using PAS 5 climbing slowly.
I added glued extra heat shrinks to my one and added a pair of 5v pc fans but got fed up with the extra charging etc with the 4.2v battery I made so replaced all with a9 mosfet controller which solved every thing though I did add another thick piece of ali heatsink to the base.

 

[tunznath]

Would a different spec controller help, this was the 36v max current15 A rated current 7A controller KT36ZWSRT-EP01, any suggestions Also this time not with bubble wrap

 

[tunznath]

Does the 17 A, 8A controller from yosepower have more mosfets?

 

[Nealh]

Does the 17 A, 8A controller from yosepower have more mosfets?

No.
You need the S09S 22 or 25a controller from TBK, BMSB or AliEx.

 

[vfr400]

You must never run a motor with any significant amount of power when it isn't running right, like when it's buzzing, humming, stuttering or making that rubbing noise. That rubbing noise comes when the pulses from the controller aren't synchronised with the motor, so they can't turn it efficiently. Therefore, the current will go up and something will burn. Problems like that start with a bad connection to the motor or the motor connector not in properly, which are easy to fix, but if you carry on, you'll normally be looking for a new controller and/or motor.