Yosepower hub kits.

sgt

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 28, 2020
5
1
I plugged/unplugged the controller/motor wire connector many times with no change. Also if is disconnected, I got a 24 error code at the display (Abnormal hall signal of motor). Also if wheel is rotating I'm reading speed value. All I did is measure phase pins in the motor connector (3 thicker ones) and I'm reading about 2 ohm between every combination.
I think about controller parameters settings, but I have no idea if this one (integraded in battery holder) - Product No.: LISHUI LSW1599-4M can be programmed.

Also display C500 has advanced setting just about:
- speed sensor selection 1-6 (no idea)
- PAS direction
- PAS sensitivity (2-63)
- throttle level En/Dis
- throttle En/Dis
- slowly start up setting (0-3)
- max current setting (3-30)
 

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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Speed sensor should be 1 as there is only one magnet for speed sensing.

Try a simple motor wheel test, connect motor wheel and controller only. It should by hand rotate anticlockwise with a slight whirring/resistance as the clutch/gearing engages.
 

sgt

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 28, 2020
5
1
it's my first ebike experience (actually bike is not mine, it's a gift for the father).
- when rotating wheel in normal direction (plugged or unplugged controller), it's like a normal bike
- when rotating wheel in opposite (backwards) and controller UNPLPUGGED, there is some noise and resistance (seems like motor/gearing is rotating). It's normal?
- when rotating wheel in opposite (backwards) and controller PLUGGED, then noise is the same as unplugged, but resistance is approximately double and increases with rotating speed.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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From the tests it looks like there is a controller issue, the test is a simple resistance test to see if there is a mosfet short/failure. With the controller connected (no battery power) if there is strong resistance rotating the motor wheel AC/W and it frees up when the controller is disconnected then the mosfets are the cause.

As you have tried you can test the controller mosfets with a meter, disconnect the controller and with the meter set to 200 ohms, probe the Black power line against the three larger phase pins in the Julet controller cable. All three should give the same resistance value usually about 10k.

Then carry out the same test with the red power wire again three values should be the same usually infinity or 1 any value of zero is a failure.
 
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sgt

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 28, 2020
5
1
Thanks, that's no problem to check something with meter. My readings:
pole / phase1 / phase2 / phase3
============================
minus / 12k / 12k / 190k
plus / 10k / 10k / 40

It look's like something is wrong wit controller. From YOSEPOWER service wrote me back for some evidence, so warranty repair should be fine. I attach how look like the controller - it's all drenched.
 

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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,981
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Yes Phase 3 is bad.
 

quackstar84

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
250
16
40
hello ive been blessed with an error code 3; motor hull abnormality. When i use the throttle the motor whines. hope you guys are doing well.
 

quackstar84

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
250
16
40
I read you can dont need the sensors, is that correct. Would it be possible to bypass the cable? (our kit's cabled are all bundled together )
 

quackstar84

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
250
16
40
It's working fine now. I figure it overheated. i was at 700watts quite often. The motor heat temp was just 25c thought. Guess it goes to show it's best to wait a day to see if it works after cooling down. Thanks
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,981
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West Sx RH
The temp you saw was the ambient air temp, you would have to fit your own moto temp sensor if you want hub temps.
Either the 700w was too much for the hub or the controller got hot.
Which hub/rating and controller are you using.
 
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quackstar84

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
250
16
40
The temp you saw was the ambient air temp, you would have to fit your own moto temp sensor if you want hub temps.
Either the 700w was too much for the hub or the controller got hot.
Which hub/rating and controller are you using.
Thank you. I have the 48v/36v controller version, you recommend it to me. I rode the bike again today i got the error 3 code. ill get the model number for you tomorrow. the hub is the 48v 350watt version.
 

quackstar84

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
250
16
40
Which hub/rating and controller are you using.
Good day Nealh, hope you're doing well.


35912

I changed c5 from 05 to 03 and the max watts are 500 now. Ive just been out for 15mins using around 250watt. Everything was fine for that duration. Hopefully using it at a lower wattage will keep the possible permanent damage from cutting it out randomly.

Thank you for your time.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
1,319
334
Scunthorpe
I did not get on with my 22a controller, same as yours quackstar84 - it worked but caused all sorts of problems with my 36v batteries thinking LVC was 33v even with the settings changed, TBF since going 48v i have not tried it and if I was still on the 350w rear yose I wouldn't push it past 17a at the C5 setting, if you want a spare or to try mine give us a PM I'll do it cheap ie postage and if works well for you, sling us a buck or two. Trying to clear some shelf space :rolleyes:
 

quackstar84

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
250
16
40
I did not get on with my 22a controller, same as yours quackstar84 - it worked but caused all sorts of problems with my 36v batteries thinking LVC was 33v even with the settings changed, TBF since going 48v i have not tried it and if I was still on the 350w rear yose I wouldn't push it past 17a at the C5 setting, if you want a spare or to try mine give us a PM I'll do it cheap ie postage and if works well for you, sling us a buck or two. Trying to clear some shelf space :rolleyes:
Hello PC2017 good to see youre still around as well. it's been ok with my 48v 20ah battery as far as i can assume. To be fair the battery could be 10ah and i wouldnt know lol i haven't weighed it. Im in England, are you?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,981
8,565
61
West Sx RH
My Yose hub worked fine with my 25a KT, though have reverted back to the Akiema cst after a years use as the latter is a better motor.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
1,319
334
Scunthorpe
Im in England, are you
Yes good sir I am in England - If you need my controller it will save you a long wait from China -

if you hover your mouse over a members picy, it should list a location for said user, if the user has listed location data in their profile.

I am going to attempt to purchase a PAS from aliexpress and hopefully it will arrive before my 3 month old PAS dies, a good 12 months of dust or a heavy down pour usually kills it, also it will be test for a delivery time frame from China via standard post.
 

sgt

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 28, 2020
5
1
Thanks, that's no problem to check something with meter. My readings:
pole / phase1 / phase2 / phase3
============================
minus / 12k / 12k / 190k
plus / 10k / 10k / 40

It look's like something is wrong wit controller. From YOSEPOWER service wrote me back for some evidence, so warranty repair should be fine. I attach how look like the controller - it's all drenched.
I get confirmed, that Yosepower is sending me a new controller from China. So I try to find what's wrong with the controller. First of all I get it from battery holder, remove PCB from case and try metering phases - all was OK. I connect it to HUB/battery/display and all works fine :oops:. But when I put it back, it doesn't work again. I think that there is some short circuit at MOSFET's cooling plates, but I found nothing. I also tried reheat solder at MOSFETs but no change. So I tried to check MOSFET's with meter and one show different values when PCB is out and PCB in the metal case. I try to buy some new one, but original 110N7F6 (VDS 68V) I found only at aliexpress, so I tried similiar IRF3205 (VDS 55V) and controller is working now ;)
If new one arrives, I will make a swap and will have one in reserve...
 

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Scorpio

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 13, 2020
376
165
Portugal Algarve (temporary)
After reading this thread, I decided to put a 350 rear hub kit onto a Spanish Mondraker mtb for a "stealth" build, and I like it a lot!
The display is badged as Yosepower Y02, is this different to the KT lcd3 as I can't access the Pxx or Cxx menus using lcd3 instructions? Am I missing something obvious?

Can I change the speed "trigger points"? I can set max speed OK. Assist #5 triggers when speed falls below max. Speed has to drop lower to trigger assist #3. Assist #2 is lower again. Ideally I'd like assist #2 to trigger as soon as speed falls below max. Is this possible?

Things I now know: "sans charger" in the advert means a basic charger made by Sans, not "without charger".
The freebie toolkit (Allen keys & casette hub tools) was helpful, no need for a crank puller as the split pas disk fits without removing the cranks.

Thanks everyone, the info in this thread helped me decide !
 
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tunznath

Pedelecer
Sep 20, 2019
101
15
Hi just read your post on the other thread, my wife and I have 2 bikes with yose kits hers is with the KT controller KT LCD3 and mine is with the LISHUI controller c500lcd like in your pics , hers is a Portuguese Berg MTB 26 and mine is a specialized 29er, we are in Azores Portugal the c500 lcd is not as programmable as the kt lcd3, also the performance between the 2 is different,
 
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