Yosepower hub kits.

[tunznath]

Nice set up you have! just remember your caps are 50v i would expect, so i would advise setting full charge at 4.15v per cell so battery only ever gets to 24.9v X2 =49.8v

Thank you for your help and info, all this is new to me, had solar on a boat years ago, now live on land, have a friend who flies quad copters who helped and put me on track with the charging ideas, still learning about ebikes and liion batteries,

 

[scott gaza]

I have reset my display down from 26" to 24" on a 2.1 Tyre and speed is now correct compared to a speed camera check! A thing to watch out on the new yose kit reading a little higher speed than thee actual speed.

 

[tunznath]

I have reset my display down from 26" to 24" on a 2.1 Tyre and speed is now correct compared to a speed camera check! A thing to watch out on the new yose kit reading a little higher speed than thee actual speed.

Thanks for the heads up

 

[tunznath]

Hi everyone
The KT-V12 L pas sensor has it got 12 magnets or 6 magnets, does 12 signals mean it has 12 magnets?

 

[Kwozzymodo]

The V12 sensor works with a 12-magnet disc.

 

[tunznath]

Thank you, the reason I am asking is I opened my sensor as it wasnt working right and found 6 magnets, and it says its a KT- V12L

 

[Kwozzymodo]

You have the integrated PAS unit, not the two piece. I find the on-piece unit a little temperamental unless it is installed with enough clearance on the bb axle.

Sometimes they bind up for no apparent reason. I have been able to fix a couple by splitting the unit apart and sanding down the contact points.

 

[tunznath]

Yes i have the one piece u it and the PAS kicks in and out , more out than in and makes the bike in PAS unusable, the throttle works ok

 

[tunznath]

Just some feedback, a new split PAS unit has solved the problem and the bicycle is now running as it should, Thanks to Winona at Yosepower for sorting out the issue, cannot fault their customer service

 

[egroover]

Hi all,

Been out today on my Yosepower 350w rear hub conversion MTB, not been using it much over the winter, but today was the 3rd time in the past week. All been fine until the end of my ride today.
Noticed a loud grinding noise coming from the hub motor, but only when going slowly uphill and at the end of the ride and with the hub under load. Once the speed picks up the noise drops off. Can't hear it when the bike back home when just spinning the motor no load on the hub. The sound doesn't appear when the motor is turned off when riding.
Bought as a kit in Aug 2018 so not sure if still covered by any warranty, will get in touch with yosepower, but I suspect that it's not as the warranty on the same kit now mentions just 18mths on the motor

Be grateful of any advice, thanks all

 

[PC2017]

Check the motor housing, rim and spokes mine tore at the rim near the spoke nipples 3 months after a true at a solid bike shop, also the disk brake nuts go straight through to the inner motor, its worth checking if they are not intruding on to the motor, if that makes sense. Sadly this is not the first post concerning the quality YOSE 350w rear, or the lack of - I have since reverted back to my front 250w YOSE and as said in other posts the build quality on the front; motor, wheel and metal used is much greater than the 350w rear, just out of curiosity is it black or silver?

 

[Nealh]

Was it a grinding noise or more of a growl ?

 

[egroover]

It's definitely a grinding noise. have linked a video of the noise taken earlier while riding. it's only noticeable in assist level 3 (starts at about 130w) and up and is very loud in top assist level 5 (as shown in video) , so linked to how much work the hub is doing. no issues with spokes, wheel play, disc ect, it's not grinding in low or no assist...

Thanks for any help

 

[Nealh]

Sounds like the clutch/planetary gears are slipping.
Certainly not a grinding noise.

First though double check any phase wire connection and motor connector is fully home.

What voltage/amps are you running with ?

 

[egroover]

Sounds like the clutch/planetary gears are slipping.
Certainly not a grinding noise.

First though double check any phase wire connection and motor connector is fully home.

What voltage/amps are you running with ?

Have linked another video below with bike on stand, am applying the rear brake to replicate load on the hub. it's a 36v motor using the yosepower hailong integrated controller in the battery mount which I think is rated as max 15a.
I have checked the motor cables all look good.
Is it easy to take the motor apart and inspect?
I thing I failed to mention is that the cassette freehub pawls were not reliably engaging when I started riding the bike after not using it for a while, I think they had dried out. i took the cassette off and sprayed some wd40, in the freehub (i didn't disassemble the freehub) and that got the freehub working smoothly,... could some of the wd40 of entered the motor and cause some gear slipping?

cheers

 

[Nealh]

I never let WD40 or similar products anywhere near my hubs or electronics, whether it causes electrickery issues I don't know.

To open the hub you need to remove the wheel on the brake side there should be a axle nut up against the hub behind the nut should be a bearing seal. On the other side remove the cassette, undo the six face plate screws and all should plop out (you may need to tap the LH axle with a block or rubber mallet.

I was thinking electric phase interferance but that would occur from the off and not at certain times.

 

[egroover]

I never let WD40 or similar products anywhere near my hubs or electronics, whether it causes electrickery issues I don't know.

To open the hub you need to remove the wheel on the brake side there should be a axle nut up against the hub behind the nut should be a bearing seal. On the other side remove the cassette, undo the six face plate screws and all should plop out (you may need to tap the LH axle with a block or rubber mallet.

I was thinking electric phase interferance but that would occur from the off and not at certain times.

Thanks Nealh, will strip down and check it out, cheers

 

[egroover]

Thanks Nealh, will strip down and check it out, cheers

Took the motor out, the gears and cogs all look in mint condition, all rotated ok, no ingress of wd40, just the black grease on the cogs/gears, no plastic or any wear I could see. I couldn't figure out how to remove the freehub but a peek inside showed nothing burnt out or wires dislodged but difficult to see as couldnt see without removing the plate/freehub etc
Have put an wanted ad on the classifieds in case anyone has one for sale - cheers

 

[sgt]

Hi all. I purchased rear yosepower kit (casette, 28", built in controller with battery), battery charged, all set-up, no error at C500 LCD display but motor is still silent
The red LED at PAS sensor is blinking when pedalling , also display shows speed but no discharging bars at all.
Also I tried 6km/h mode (holding DOWN arrow ) - I can see 6km/h icon at the display but motor still silent.
I appreciate any help what could be wrong.
BTW: the throttle sensor and brakes MUST be connected or it is optional? The behaviour is the same, no matter if brakes and throttle connected or not.

 

[Nealh]

Throttle/brakes are optional.
Check the motor/controller wire connector and that it is fully pushed in, both parts of the connector has an arrow to align them and there is a raised line on the motor side of the connector to how far they push together.