Yosepower hub kits.

[Olleman]

I can only speak from little experience - the only down side to quality brands based and made in china is brand copying and this is rife throughout China and in most cases you'll find people saying they last and are most durable and others will disagree, as with most things, I purchased a Dillenger brand China made motor and that lasted 2 years at best but others are still going strong and report a well built product I can not agree. However I have consider this quandary myself for a 350w front hub and found lots of 8fun/bafang sellers on Aliexp and would most likely try out one if a sum of money came my way... My friend rides an Oxygen emate old design battery with a Bafang or 8fun I can not remember what was stamped on it and a part from several wheel rebuilds it has covered well over 8000 miles over 3-4 years, summer use, hardly ever wet, not overly well maintained and store under covered.

Seems likely that bafang hubs could be more durable. I have a hard time finding a rear wheel with bafang hub below 300USD. Whereas the yosepower complete kit costs about 220USD.

Hopefully the freehub is interchangable, like on the bafang hub, and if that's the case I'll ask yose if they can send some extras while they're at it.

I do bike in ALL weather and also have a couple of miles each day on sand/gravel. I try to protect the bike during the day with a bike cover and it's always stored inside at home. Nevertheless the bike has seen it's share of water and dirt, espesially this "winter" which is more like a long, wet autumn here in southern Sweden.

 

[PC2017]

I do bike in ALL weather

I would say paying £180.00 for just a motor, I would hope it lasts at least 2 years and does a few thousand miles any less than I wouldn't use that company again if possible, lets not forget YOSE was born out of the cheap DIY easy setup ideology and to that extent it has worked and worked well. I was thinking about the Dillenger motor that I mentioned the motor failed and for the cost at the time it was disappointing, it failed 1 month out warranty, however thinking back Dillenger did try their best to help me out and after I bugged em a lot I got a free controller, that said the battery(3.5 year old now) is still working and well I might add even with the scare of the 22 amp controller problem! If you can build a wheel or know a shop that can and is willing to do so, you might be able to just buy the motor and get the wheel built at home it may save you a few bucks, if you do get a new motor please do start a new thread and link us all in.

 

[Sturmey]

How much have you all been using your yosepower kits? I'm very close to 5000 km or 3100 miles. I've had a faulty controller and now a slipping freehub (which I hope yosepower till replace). I think it's a bit early to be getting problems after only one year of use. I'm wondering if bafang hubmotors are better in terms of durabillity?

I have 8000KM on Yose 350 rear (freewheel) hub. I have found the kit not to be great against strong winds and hills. (The controller I got with the 350W kit is only 7 amp continuous (15 max) rating and gets very hot under pressure.) Last summer, I got fed up of its lack of torque and stuck an old spare xf07 on front wheel, making an all wheel drive out of it and its great for use on my local mountain roads.
As regards durability, and a bike for everyday reliable use, I have got good results out of low RPM (slow wind) front hubs. I presume this is because the hubs are not put under too much pressure in terms of weight (no spoke problems) and demands for speed.

 

[Olleman]

I have 8000KM on Yose 350 rear (freewheel) hub. I have found the kit not to be great against strong winds and hills. (The controller I got with the 350W kit is only 7 amp continuous (15 max) rating and gets very hot under pressure.) Last summer, I got fed up of its lack of torque and stuck an old spare xf07 on front wheel, making an all wheel drive out of it and its great for use on my local mountain roads.
As regards durability, and a bike for everyday reliable use, I have got good results out of low RPM (slow wind) front hubs. I presume this is because the hubs are not put under too much pressure in terms of weight (no spoke problems) and demands for speed.

I'm quite happy with the strength of the kit. I did get the upgraded controller but I ended up with lesser power since I had the solder mod done on the old one. Since I'm aiming for longeivity I decided to not mod the new controller.

Yosepower have at least anwered me now and they will get back to me when their engineer have had a look at my short video, describing the problem. It's more or less exactly a year ago since I bought the kit so I'm interested to see what kind of responsibility they will take...

 

[scott gaza]

Hi Sturmey, How did you go about getting you're bike all wheel drive? Thanks Gaza

 

[Sturmey]

Hi Sturmey, How did you go about getting you're bike all wheel drive? Thanks Gaza

I live beside some mountains with some quite and beautiful roads but with long grades of 5 to 10%. The single hub and my weight (90Kg) and weak legs are not enough for the steep bits and the bike just stalls on the hills. Anyhow, I had an older spare bike with a mxus front hub and battery, and I simply took it off and fitted the extra kit to the bike that already had the yose 350 rear.
To be specific about the wiring, the rear Yose is fitted as normal with LCD and pass and no throttle, with controller in frame bag. The mxus 250 front (cyclotricity) is fitted with no lcd or pas, only throttle. I have one brake lever wired to one kit and the other to the second kit, and have fitted an additional 'kill switch' in lieu of brake lever to front throttle kit. The front kit has a special 'jumper plug' instead of handlebar display. The front battery and control unit along with an on/off switch (16amp mcb) is fitted in saddle bag. ( I also have a second single motor 'legal' bike for everday use and I swap over one of my batteries from one bike to another.)
The bike is used as normal with rear wheel using pas 3 or 4 for road use and using throttle (front) when additional spurts of power are required (e.g smaller hills .up to 5%) For the 10% plus long climbs, pas 5 is selected and full throttle gets me up.
This setup seems to work well in my case and will haul me up a 10% hill at 20 km/hr at 68% efficency. The addition kit and battery adds an extra 6 Kg to bike.

Motor Simulator - Tools

Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...

www.ebikes.ca

 

[scott gaza]

Thanks Sturmey, Going to try and do the same sort of thing myself is the 'jumper plug' diy or did it come with a kit? Cheers Gaza

 

[Sturmey]

Thanks Sturmey, Going to try and do the same sort of thing myself is the 'jumper plug' diy or did it come with a kit? Cheers Gaza

If your front kit has a display/lcd unit/led unit you can leave it in and wired but you may have trouble fitting and cluttering the handlebars and may have to stuff it into a (handlebar bag) bag somewhere. The 'jumper plug' is a nicer and safer way than shown below and comes with some kits and controllers. It just plugs in.It would be better if shorter and insulated wires were used (not as in photo ) with just the ends bare as the two jumper must not come in contact.
Perhaps leave the second display unit in and working initially and tidy up afterwards if you are happy with the outcome. (Its like fitting a second locomotive to a train!)

 

[PC2017]

I saw this and I wouldn't mind looking into this I believe there is some wiring that goes from julet to JST for the LCD and motor, the PAS would be easy to source... I haven't look at this in great detail from a dual battery aspect...

T-06SS 36V/48V KT Dual Motor Driving Brushless Sine Wave Controller [T-06SS Dual Driving controller] - $59.15 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

Zen Cart! T-06SS 36V/48V KT Dual Motor Driving Brushless Sine Wave Controller [T-06SS Dual Driving controller] - ★★★★★ T-06SS 36V/48V KT Dual Motor Driving Brushless Sine Wave Controller 1--Rate Voltage:36V/48V 2--Rated Current:8A 3--Maximum Current:17±1A 4--Low Voltage Protection:DC30/40±0.5V...

www.topbikekit.com

I have seen these

Not the best but this guy knows a few things

This guy is an oracle

Dual motor

 

[scott gaza]

Thanks Lads! my old display will do for making the jumper cant wait to try it out Cheers Gaza

 

[Sturmey]

I saw this and I wouldn't mind looking into this I believe there is some wiring that goes from julet to JST for the LCD and motor, the PAS would be easy to source... I haven't look at this in great detail from a dual battery aspect...

T-06SS 36V/48V KT Dual Motor Driving Brushless Sine Wave Controller [T-06SS Dual Driving controller] - $59.15 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

Zen Cart! T-06SS 36V/48V KT Dual Motor Driving Brushless Sine Wave Controller [T-06SS Dual Driving controller] - ★★★★★ T-06SS 36V/48V KT Dual Motor Driving Brushless Sine Wave Controller 1--Rate Voltage:36V/48V 2--Rated Current:8A 3--Maximum Current:17±1A 4--Low Voltage Protection:DC30/40±0.5V...

www.topbikekit.com

I have seen these

Not the best but this guy knows a few things

This guy is an oracle

Dual motor

Just to clarify a little. For the sake of this discussion, we will say that there are two ways to go about fitting two hub motors to a bike. The first is the 'dual motor' way where 'dual' controllers are used so one throttle or pas can control the two motors simultaneously etc and one large battery is fitted. This is not what I am describing or have done.
Instead, I have fitted a simple independent front motor with its own battery, controller, wiring and throttle only that works totally independent of the other motor and has no connection to the rear motor that works with PAS only. (A second throttle could be fitted but I dont think its necessary.)There is no inter wiring with this setup. Its advantage is simplicity and no cutting/splicing of wiring. Also, a fault or breakdown in one motor does not affect the other.I have avoided cluttering the handlebars and using a second throttle and display unit. It is possible (with simple modifications) to have one throttle feeding two motors etc. but this involves cutting/splicing and the two motor systems are no longer independent.

 

[Nealh]

Having two independent drives ( despite not legal) may have their uses.
If wanting to run them as one, either two controllers or a dual drive controller as Sturmey had mentioned is needed. With two controllers The PAS and throttle could quite easily be controlled from one form of input by making up a short parallel wire with connectors for PAS and throttle and then no need to splice or touch the existing ones.

 

[PC2017]

I have fitted a simple independent front motor

Yer man I got ya - that's how I was thinking until, literally 3 days ago I saw that dual controller, the way you do it, is simple easy to the point and If I may a good way to get a feel of how an "all in one" setup would be weight wise... I had looked into this ages ago with the 250w just sitting in the hoover cupboard gathering dust, not mentioning how slow it is unless used as a quick runner to the local shop on throttle. I wouldn't mind having a go at "dual" running, two motors off one system, but back when I thought about it, buying a cycle analyst and all JST wiring the cost alone would have been in the hundreds even with the fact I have two motors and lots of spares. Once I get my doplin 48v battery then I'll have a spare pass through battery mount to go with the one I have, then I could run two 36v batteries, but that's as far as I got....

 

[Olleman]

About my freehub acting up. Yosepower will send me a "base card plate" whatever they mean by that. I hope it's the same as the bafang freehub cover plate. Seems easy enough to replace even for a layman. I will have it within a week or so. Perhaps I should disinfect it before opening somehow

 

[PC2017]

disinfect it

Or self quarantine for 14 days after fitting! I have a 17a controller coming on a plane from China, I was surprised it got out so quick, most likely made on the other side of China...here's hoping

 

[Olleman]

Or self quarantine for 14 days after fitting! I have a 17a controller coming on a plane from China, I was surprised it got out so quick, most likely made on the other side of China...here's hoping

Should get quite cold in the planes cargo hold at 10 000metres alltitude. I think we'll both be fine

 

[PC2017]

Snap poll - How many of us are using the YOSE two pin female power connect from their battery to YOSE two pin male connector on the 15a YOSE controller?

 

[Olleman]

Snap poll - How many of us are using the YOSE two pin female power connect from their battery to YOSE two pin male connector on the 15a YOSE controller?

I use them

 

[PC2017]

I use them

I was wondering if anyone had any issues with them as I thought my problem was the battery to controller connector after I replaced everything with XT90's. My battery on the 22a controller limited to 14.66a was doing so well yesterday, then it cut out just before home, I was well gutted I thought I had solved my problem no such luck. My 17a is taking ages to leave China, I assumed it was in flight but I checked this morning and the date changed but the "leaving destination country" has not changed...

 

[Olleman]

I was wondering if anyone had any issues with them as I thought my problem was the battery to controller connector after I replaced everything with XT90's. My battery on the 22a controller limited to 14.66a was doing so well yesterday, then it cut out just before home, I was well gutted I thought I had solved my problem no such luck. My 17a is taking ages to leave China, I assumed it was in flight but I checked this morning and the date changed but the "leaving destination country" has not changed...

Yosepower on the other hand are really fast. My new freehub was sent from China last wednsday and was delivered to my door today

I've read your posts about that problem. I've never had any problems other than with the orginal controller. If the connectors are clean and fit nicely together I can't imagine that they can be responsible for your issues. Why not just cut the connectors and solder the wires together, then you'll know for sure.