I agree but i don't have a grinder and I wasn't keen to grind my classic Deore XT crank as it is sentimental to me. Anyway, problem solved with a £6 replacement and a spare BB bracket I found laying about which has a much more flush to the frame finish. Did my first PAS ride in today and i prefer it to the throttle by some margin although you have to be slightly careful you don't lurch into the back of a car when on 5 and in traffic!
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
Last one in the Klang Yose saga i promise but I had the bike up on the stand yesterday to fit the PAS and the new front brake and with the motor under power it doesn't half make a racket! It is quite a mechanical sort of sound, clunky really and at first made me think the bearings were gone. Out riding this morning it felt completely normal but should it make all that noise when on the stand?
Oh and for some reason I charged the battery up but the display only showed half despite the power "meter" on the battery showing full, anyone have this issue?
Oh and for some reason I charged the battery up but the display only showed half despite the power "meter" on the battery showing full, anyone have this issue?
You don't need to use PAS 5 whilst commuting or in traffic, it is asking for trouble.
I very rarely use it on my bikes except for the occasional hill when I'm tired after a long ride.
I very rarely use it on my bikes except for the occasional hill when I'm tired after a long ride.
Adjust P5 setting to 9 or 10 to see if that helps otherwise ignore it and use the real time voltage level readout.
Thanks for this. In case I have mucked any other settings up is there a way to restore to defaults and will those defaults be set by Yose Power or by the LCD manufacturer?
Make a note of your settings before changing anything. We pretty well understand what they all do, so if you mess up, you can always get help.
P5 is a damping factor for the battery display. I think it's a length of time that it uses to average the battery voltage before displaying it. If your battery is run down, then you charge it up and ride the bike, it might take a minute or so before the display jumps to full. You can change the length of time with the P5 setting, but when you shorten it, the bars will go up with the amount of power you're using and work less like a fuel gauge. Once you understand how it works, you'll probably want to leave it as it is.
P5 is a damping factor for the battery display. I think it's a length of time that it uses to average the battery voltage before displaying it. If your battery is run down, then you charge it up and ride the bike, it might take a minute or so before the display jumps to full. You can change the length of time with the P5 setting, but when you shorten it, the bars will go up with the amount of power you're using and work less like a fuel gauge. Once you understand how it works, you'll probably want to leave it as it is.
If you get a fierce vibration and or clunking from the motor, like the gears are broken or clutch slipping, it's a timing issue between the controller and motor. Sometimes, it'll happen at a particular speed or when under high load. I've never seen it only do it with no load.
Unfortunately, it's difficult to say what's causing yours without actually seeing it, but if it doesn't do it when riding the bike, it's probably nothing to worry about. The things to check are that no part of the rotating motor is touching the frame or disc mount. That includes anything on or near the axle. Regarding what I said above, check that all motor connections are tight and that the 9-pin connector is in all the way to the marked line.
If it does it while riding, do not carry on giving the motor full power in an attempt to ride through it because your controller will blow. I'm talking about fierce juddering, not an odd squeak.
Unfortunately, it's difficult to say what's causing yours without actually seeing it, but if it doesn't do it when riding the bike, it's probably nothing to worry about. The things to check are that no part of the rotating motor is touching the frame or disc mount. That includes anything on or near the axle. Regarding what I said above, check that all motor connections are tight and that the 9-pin connector is in all the way to the marked line.
If it does it while riding, do not carry on giving the motor full power in an attempt to ride through it because your controller will blow. I'm talking about fierce juddering, not an odd squeak.
Yes i will and I am not entirely sure i changed anything but right at the start i didn't know how to get the throttle only setting and might have changed other settings whilst trying to go through the menu to get to the right setting for this.
I will write down all the settings and put them on here just for the benefit of you guys checking
My worry is that the sound is caused by an incorrct setting that i accidently changed!
It seemed ok this morning so maybe it just makes that noise. I checked it wasn't the case it was rubbing somewhere as that is what it sounded like but there was no sign of rubbing. I will check every single part of it later on but as i said it did ride ok this morning so i think it is ok.
Ahh, well I had to put a washer on the inside of the drop-out on the drive side because otherwise the chain hit against the drop-out in the smallest cog. Why would this cause a knocking noise?
In that last case, the guy had exactly what you described. The chain or top gear was rubbing. In other cases the washer was too big. It was touching both the inner and the outer of the bearing it was up against. I've also seen a washer on the drive side touching the inside of the freehub spline. Then there's the disc touching the caliper adapter or chainstay.
These stories usually go like this. "I took my wheel off to fix a puncture, now the motor's making a noise". I always ask why they didn't fix the puncture without removing the wheel, but they never seem to know the answer.
These stories usually go like this. "I took my wheel off to fix a puncture, now the motor's making a noise". I always ask why they didn't fix the puncture without removing the wheel, but they never seem to know the answer.
I had to put a washer on the inside too on the freewheel side, best idea is to try and video the sound, its not easy if you have only a phone or a action cam, but do try and upload it to youtube, I did with my first motor and YOSE deemed it faulty, whether it was or not remains unclear for several reasons, if you read back on this thread you can gauge the problem I had and how I solved it -
But to sum up, it was like a clutch slipping sound from the motor at high speed mainly under load, there was a click and the motor would loose power for a split second at intermittent times during a ride, mainly at throttle use to move off from a standstill. YOSE kindly sent me two motor internals as the second one had damaged threads and the 3rd seem to work fine, however the third was only tested on my old non-yose stealth controller, when that died I use the YOSE controller and that caused my cut off problem to reoccur, I firmly believe these controllers weren't designed with the 350w motor in mind as mentioned I have the same controller for my YOSE 250w ( not 1 problem running that ) the only other possible idea was my power/battery connector however this was used on my YOSE 250w with no problems. The old non-YOSE stealth controller was mounted inside the battery mount thus not requiring any additional user altered connections from the battery like the YOSE controller requires. I have since purchased another NON-YOSE dolphin battery mount stealth controller and it works perfect, it reduced vibrations immensely and has not cut the motor out once. Above all although YOSE are a solid brand and for anyone on a budget who wishes to attempt an ebike build they are a good company to deal with including the after care service... however bear in mind they are relatively cheap.
The Yose controller is a general controller for any brushless sensored hub-motor. There are settings in the controller that have to be changed to make it work properly with different motors, like P1 for the number of magnets in the motor times the reduction ratio and C2 for motor phase angle.
P1 84.
Unless something is a miss and phase's have been connected incorrect C2/0 should be default.
Unless something is a miss and phase's have been connected incorrect C2/0 should be default.
I went through each of those settings back then to no avail including the defaults, then with the new non-yose controller all are set as default and it works perfect, process of elimination still leads to a controller issue, whether it's low end internal components or a design flaw I don't know, I can only gauge from what I know, with the YOSE controller there was a fault on the motor with the after market controller no issues reported and it's been running everyday since summer.
Different controllers work better with some motors than others. It doesn't mean that anything is wrong with them. The only controller I could get to work smoothly with an Ezee motor was an Ezee one. All the others juddered, vibrated or turned the motor backwards. I have one controller that I use for testing because it'll work with anything, as it has automatic detection of motor characteristics and sets itself accordingly. The Q series motors can be very temperamental when it comes to controllers.
I think the dolphin mount controller I purchased has this sort of function, it would be nice if the sellers/manufacturers listed this as a function or option on the after market products, if there is one with the julet connectors so the YOSE basic can be replace if the user feels the need, or YOSE actually upgraded their model and charged a little extra I am sure people wouldn't mind if it meant having a smoother motor operation.
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