Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

same as your existing bottle cage bolts

Yep I was having a thick moment, I blame low blood glucose, yes m5 its the only size that'll fit through the spaces in the battery rack, its been a long time since I fitted my battery rack lol - I did want to avoid buying such a vast array of rivnuts as this will be a one time application and I haven't looked yet but I can guess it'll be cheaper buying a small pack of rivnuts, some to practice with and a few spare.

Thanks for the response!

 

[wheeliepete]

Both kits back in stock-BE QUICK!!

https://www.yosepower.com/en/category/rear-motor-60.html

 

[PC2017]

Both kits

I cant bring myself to purchase there EU stock batteries, not to mention I've hit a wall in funding the 48v project

 

[Andrew Wingrove]

Hi Quackstar, hope your Yosepower build went okay! I received my front hub kit this week, and I am building to bikes at the same time. The wheel I am using on one bike and the controller and cables on another. Now I have a small problem, in that the wheel I am using has a shorter cable on it that the one that came in the Yosepower setup, this has left me with loads of 9 pin power cable on one bike, and not enough on the other. Did you use the 9 pin extension cable on your build? And if not, can I buy it from you?

 

[PC2017]

extension cable

or 1 meter i think http://www.topbikekit.com/1electric-bike-9pins-motor-waterproof-extend-cable-connector-p-522.html

 

[Domm]

Hi, I'd like to pair a 48v or 52v battery with this kit. Would I need different connectors and a different controller? If so what would be recommended and where would I buy? Thanks!

 

[Andrew Wingrove]

Hi Dom, take a look at this one from the same company I bought mine from.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/48V1000W-26-Rear-Motor-Freewheel-E-Bike-Hub-Conversion-DIY-Retrofit-Kit-Black/302923802323?hash=item4687aa66d3:g:chYAAOSwx2Fbxped

Order was placed on Thursday, and it arrived on the following Tuesday.

The connectors from the controller to the battery were with a Julet connector on controller side to two bulletin connectors on the battery side.


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[Nealh]

Hi, I'd like to pair a 48v or 52v battery with this kit. Would I need different connectors and a different controller? If so what would be recommended and where would I buy? Thanks!

There is a 48v of the kit that will need no modding but if you have the 36v
version a KT 48v controller will be required which has 60v capacitors, the hub works well with 48v. Don't know if 52v may be too much of an over volt for the hub, no one has tried it yet as far AFAICS.

KT dual volt controller can be got off ebay, Aliexpress, PSWPower.com & BMSBattery.com just to mention some places to buy, you will need to a new pas and throttle as well as a motor to controller wire that has the nine pin julet (motor connector) & the separate 6 wire hall block and son the other end for hall/phase ( controller end) as you won't find many after market controllers with julet connectors.

 

[PC2017]

52v battery

even to many volts for me + getting a real quality 52v battery will be costly saying that so will a 48v - please do let us know which voltage you decide to use and where you buy the battery from!

 

[Nealh]

If you have the ability to weld and solder, connect a 3s pack of same ah or greater for a cheaper way of getting 48v. If you have a good 36v battery, series connect a good 3s one. Will require/ needs wiring extension from the battery receiver pins outs, to where you place the small 3s pack. Connect 3s battery red to black wire of wire extension and vice versa to get 48v.

Needs a small 3s BMS and a 3s/12.6v charger.

 

[Domm]

you will need to a new pas and throttle as well as a motor to controller wire that has the nine pin julet (motor connector) & the separate 6 wire hall block and son the other end for hall/phase ( controller end) as you won't find many after market controllers with julet connectors.

Oh dear. I had no idea it would get so complicated.

 

[Nealh]

Oh dear. I had no idea it would get so complicated.

Welcome to world of diy ebikes and over volting .

 

[PC2017]

it would get so complicated

It would be costly and it would need water proofing but the only 48v controller that should eliminate the need for all that crazy (hence my new build) would be this Julet 48v controller...http://www.topbikekit.com/36v48v-6mosfets-sine-wave-controller-for-hailong-case-52pcs-cells-p-695.html

You could ask them to make you a case for it "they" might help for the sale IF you can communicate effectively with them....

Unless you actually buy the 48v kit from YOSE which I plan to do then you'll find it hard the get a Julet controller.

And I will NOT be buying a 48v battery from YOSE as discussed several pages back you'll need a battery with cells capable of a high continuous discharge rate this is a UK made one with the min requirements for a 17amp controller that I have my eye on, although its a bit big for my liking.

https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/product-category/ebike-battery-pack/tiger-shark/48v/

There is also one from the US but it will most likely cost + UK VAT when its delivered - the trouble with the china made stuff is you can't make sure the cells are what you request and even if they do make it to your spec it'll still be costly.

 

[Andrew Wingrove]

I have a Yosepower kit that I have just put onto a bike. Before I routed all my cabling and I had everything joined up, the throttle worked fine, as did the PAS. After putting the bike all together, thePAS works, and the throttle does not.

The controller is a KT with KT LCD3 screen, and all the connectors are Julet. I have two brand new throttles, and having swapped them around, with no result.. All the connections seem to be fully connected together.

My settings on the LCD ARE AS FOLLOWS in the photo attached.

Any ideas, as I have tried logic, and tea?




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[anotherkiwi]

Try C4 = 2

 

[Andrew Wingrove]

C4 to 2, no result. ( sounds a bit like chess )


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[anotherkiwi]

Sounds like you have a short somewhere...

 

[Andrew Wingrove]

I did make up a extension cable yesterday from the controller to the motor, and the motor runs fine, and each wire tested good from each end. if I remove the extension and connect the original leads together from controller to motor it still runs the same. All the other cables look in good condition as they are new, and all the pins in the Julet connectors are straight. Not sure where I could have suddenly got a short from.




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[PC2017]

throttle does not.

Any LCD errors (error 01) i think is throttle - I will have a look at your settings but as of now I have not - Try pedalling first to engage the motor then hit the throttle while pedalling....

EDIT Maybe not just looked at your settings lol - try a factory default/restore

 

[Andrew Wingrove]

Hi PC2017. No error messages showing up, and I have tried the motor running under PAS and then thumbing the throttle, no effect from the throttle.


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