Yosepower hub kits.

[mags2]

I've had to fix a few of those Smart and Magic Pie motors. They let in water too easily, so no good for all-weather use.

It's difficult to beat a standard geared rear hub-motor with a sine wave controller for normal riding on UK roads. heavy riders with steep hills need something like 48v and 20 amps, while as a lighter rider (<80kg) and medium hills can get away with 36v and 15 amps. For the higher power, you need a stronger geared motor, like the Bafang BPM or CST.

Thanks ill have to think about it. Where should i look to get a sine wave and lcd from uk/europe? Would it be better to pay a bit more and just get the yose power or keep the cheaper hub and see if thats good enough. Im under 80kg and only need it for medium hills and distance as well.

 

[dav]

Which one would be better and why ?

Yose 36V 350w, Yose 48V 350W or Reasejoy 36V 500w.

 

[Nealh]

If a choice for a first kit or bike then 48v over 36v.
48v battery will have more ah/wh = range if controller rating is the same, torque and speed will be greater.
There will be no or little difference in wattage/power if voltage and controller are the same, though with 500w you can give it more amps for more torque/power but also means having a much better quality battery to deliver the power.

 

[dav]

Is there difference between 10Ah and 16Ah battery except in range ?
How long can 10Ah battery last if never used ?
What is minimum Ah for 36V 350W yosepower motor to run ?
After depletion to 60% after 500 cycles how fast will battery deplete after that ?
What is the size of shipping box for the kit ?
Apology for not good English.

Thank you for replies

 

[mags2]

That's right. You've learnt everything bad about those cheap kits. I always advise that it's worth paying a bit more to get a kit with an LCD. The Yose Power kits do indeed come with a sine wave controller. They're excellent and more or less silent.

I've had the new rear hub kit for a few days now and i have to say it's really great in comparison to the cheap non lcd kit i tried.

It feels and sounds far better now which actually makes it enjoyable to ride again. Has no trouble getting up hills and even the more tiring country roads around here.

I do have a few questions though hopefully someone here can answer.

Is the pedal sensor meant to be tightened all the way up so there's no gap because i was worried it will break?

The arm isn't really on fully id say its about 80% or so but seems secure enough though im not sure. The sensor has a little plastic ring with gaps that looks like it will go inside a bit but again im not sure if it's meant to or not so its up close but not entering inner ring.

Also the disk break isn't quite centred between pads so it rubs very slightly and doesn't break fully. I had trouble getting the wheel on and im not sure if the spacer/locking bit is meant to be inside pointing out from tire or inwards?

I appreciate any help and am also wondering like above if Ah makes a difference to just distance or power output as well?

You can smooth out your present motor and get the 5 different PAS levels if you just change the controller to a Kunteng sine wave one, which costs about £70. You can only do that if you have a sensored motor (3 thick wires and at least 5 thin ones).

I wonder now can i use the new kit to test the cheap hub... I guess id need a connector with new and old style plugs?

 

[Nealh]

If your crank arm doesn't go on fully the you need a longer bottom bracket as we have mentioned on a few posts regarding this kit when using the supplied KT12 sensor.
Cost about £10 from Halfords's, the axle is square taper so it won't be on fully tight at 80% and you may end up rounding the edges on the shaft.

The pas with the grippy plastic splines will push on a far as you can get it to go, the crank arm doesn't want to be dead tight and a few mm gap to prevent any pinching of the unit.

With regards to the brake have you tried adjusting the brake calliper by undoing the calliper bolts, then apply the rear brake and whilst holding the brake on tighten bolts again to see if it is centred.
If no luck you can centre the hub spacing how you like to get it right. Each side has one flat washer and one tabbed anti-rotation washer, with just the axle sitting in the dropouts start on the disc side and place washer and AR tabbed washer where they keeps the disc central ( If needs be you may have to get hold of another 12mm flat washer for spacing).
The tab on the AR washer needs to sit fully in the drop out, if it doesn't you need to file the drop out a few mm deeper. Don't forget to fit a Torque arm usually on the disc side of the bike to prevent the hub form spinning out.
Show us a pic from underside and we can see if it is ok.

 

[Nealh]

Is there difference between 10Ah and 16Ah battery except in range ?
How long can 10Ah battery last if never used ?
What is minimum Ah for 36V 350W yosepower motor to run ?
After depletion to 60% after 500 cycles how fast will battery deplete after that ?
What is the size of shipping box for the kit ?
Apology for not good English.

Thank you for replies

16ah mat have better cells then 10ah depends on the specs.

What does Q2 mean , battery left at full voltage and not used will loose capacity sooner.

Mininum ah depends on the cell quality if using HG2 or VTC5A you could get away with 5 - 6ah for a 10 mile or more if you can manage on low wh per mile or km.

Depletion pass does any one count actual charge cycles.?

Box is not small about a 80cm x 80cm x 10cm.

English is excellent wait until you see Soundwaves and some others English even we can't understand them.

 

[Nealh]

Yose website seems to be full of kits from Berlin warehouse,, 16 hub kits & 3 BBS.
48v one should be good at 17a.

https://www.yosepower.com/en/category/Motor-Kits-37/1.html

 

[mags2]

If your crank arm doesn't go on fully the you need a longer bottom bracket as we have mentioned on a few posts regarding this kit when using the supplied KT12 sensor.
Cost about £10 from Halfords's, the axle is square taper so it won't be on fully tight at 80% and you may end up rounding the edges on the shaft.

The pas with the grippy plastic splines will push on a far as you can get it to go, the crank arm doesn't want to be dead tight and a few mm gap to prevent any pinching of the unit.

I put it back on without pas to see gap and it just about fits but could do with an extra millimetre filed off?

With regards to the brake have you tried adjusting the brake calliper by undoing the calliper bolts, then apply the rear brake and whilst holding the brake on tighten bolts again to see if it is centred.
If no luck you can centre the hub spacing how you like to get it right. Each side has one flat washer and one tabbed anti-rotation washer, with just the axle sitting in the dropouts start on the disc side and place washer and AR tabbed washer where they keeps the disc central ( If needs be you may have to get hold of another 12mm flat washer for spacing).
The tab on the AR washer needs to sit fully in the drop out, if it doesn't you need to file the drop out a few mm deeper. Don't forget to fit a Torque arm usually on the disc side of the bike to prevent the hub form spinning out.
Show us a pic from underside and we can see if it is ok.

So the tab washer should be on inside facing out? That might be why its off if so.

Also is the nut supposed to bite into the frame metal or have a washer between?

I have something that might work as a torque arm with a little tinkering or should i just buy one instead?

Do these work without throttle and is it water proof?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Nealh]

Tabbed/AR washer generally sit inside with tab facing out, tab sits in to axle drop out, though I have one bike where the AR sits on the outside as it works best with spacing available.
Nut usually up against washer or torque arm.

 

[mags2]

Tabbed/AR washer generally sit inside with tab facing out, tab sits in to axle drop out, though I have one bike where the AR sits on the outside as it works best with spacing available.
Nut usually up against washer or torque arm.

Thanks for help. I know it's simple stuff to know but i've never had to mess with rear wheel before. I have watched plenty of guides to get everything setup so far but some little details like that were hard to see.

 

[dav]

Thank you for answers. I ordered kit.

Thanks for the tool also

 

[wheeliepete]

How many gears does your bike have? You can use your existing cassette, but you will need a tool to remove it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Bike-Freewheel-Chain-Whip-Cog-Cassette-Sprocket-Remover-Breaker-Tool-UK/263349190446

 

[mags2]

Is there a cable that can connect this lcd and control box to a old style hub with three phase and little motor wires?

Id like to test it on the cheap hub i originally got to see whether its worth an upgrade from throttle to full lcd for another bike.

 

[dav]

How much days did you wait until they sent kit ?

 

[mags2]

How much days did you wait until they sent kit ?

It was about 6 days but thats with weekend included. I think they say 3 to 5 days around europe and im in the uk so seems ok.

 

[Blunderbuss]

I ordered the 48V 350W on 1st June and it arrived today - but i had to pay DHL an extra £4.99 for customs, not a deal breaker but unexpected. My observation is that the spokes are very meaty compared to what my local bike shop used for a 350W Bafang (and i got on a 500w hub) and i would say that the quality of the rim is "basic". Where the rim is joined (presumably from an originally flat extruded section) it is not lined up perfectly and you can see the (admittedly very tiny) mis-alignment. I am sure it will not fail but i cant see anything similar on any other wheels i have.

Edit - added picture

 

[Nealh]

Coming from Berlin there should be no tax or import duties.
May be the payment was for this new anti dumping tax that David Myall @ Wisper has been talking about !!!

 

[Blunderbuss]

Coming from Berlin there should be no tax or import duties.
May be the payment was for this new anti dumping tax that David Myall @ Wisper has been talking about !!!

The invoice just says "£4.99 for Duty & VAT", but I guess Duty could cover a whole lot of things.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Maybe brexit is already here? A surprise brexit? Or they think there is still a wall and Berlin is on the other side?

Or they are ripping you off...