Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

KT 14A with the LCD3

48v controller? thanks d8veh - I would assume these q128c don't come with julet connectors so a whole new way of wiring has to be the way!

so psw power have 36/48v 20 amp ones for instance but there non jullet connection so there must be a different moter to controller cable?

Yep and more yep

Footpump you sound like your in he same situation as me; not wanting to spend a whole load of new money on a completely new kit but I feel its time to start saving and planing where them loose all over the place untidy wires are gona fit on me bike!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The Q128C comes with the standard 9 pin motor connector. You can get KT controllers with any connectors you want, including Julet.

 

[PC2017]

myself I do not seem to peddle over the 15mph cut off , so am always using the moter/battery.

When you say "cut off" do mean if you were pedalling without a motor and got the 15mph there would be no more gears on your bike to aid traction. My old bike had amazing gears I could pedal up to 18-19mph and on PAS 5 my wattage would drop to about 350 and I could stay steady at 19-20mph still with traction and pedalling, this new bike not so... like you I loose all gears at 15mph and I really don't like it... so it could end up costing me £30-£40 fitting a 48T chain set on the front gears... buggered if I am DIYing it

 

[footpump]

I set pas cut off speed to 15mph, but I rarely go over 15mph so are always using moter assistance.
on old set up 32f -14t rear was ok , but with the 350w moter I am peddling quicker and do run out of gears at anything about 15mph, especially slight downward slope

I had to move front derallier shifter, so it does not know shift from 32 to 42front chainring , yet to be sorted.
range still main concern at 28miles its very sluggish and reads 36.1 on multimeter.

as with all these thing my intention was to try the older 250w system with the new 17ah battery, as the original was only good for about 15 miles.
but there was no connecter for the controller to battery they went into the base of battery holder, so assumed they were soldered .

so cut the battery wires and installed all the 350w system /removed all 250w stuff only to find at a later date there is a plate on bottom of battery frame that has concealed bullet connecters?
I cannot refit 250 system I seem to have lost the moter to controller cable.

 

[Nealh]

When using non julet controller like the PSWPower KT's , you need to buy the sensors etc as they have the right connectors and wiring in the correct order ( though I always check). The motor wire connector comes as an extra with the hub and is like this one below.
https://www.pandaebikes.com/shop/extras/motor-cable-hall-effect-female-waterproof-male-standard-wiring-panda-eco/e

BMSBattery sell a cable with std 9 pin motor connector and the other end is bare for the user to connect up or at
http://www.topbikekit.com/ebike-motor-cable-with-hall-connector-p-270.html

If you ask Hatti or the other nice peeps at Woosh they may be able to sell you a cable cut to the right length for your needs.

 

[PC2017]

Nealh the first link takes you to a PAS sensor with julet, the second one it what daffy99 was looking at on panda bikes and it was out of stock but that site you gave us is well cheap... I will have a good look around thanks!

I suppose I will have to ask dillenger what RPM my motor is before I think about a full kit.

One major question I have is, if I have a 36v battery & controller is the motor actualyl 36v too or have I lost the plot, would my motor be ok on a 48v system?

 

[anotherkiwi]

Nealh the first link takes you to a PAS sensor with julet, the second one it what daffy99 was looking at on panda bikes and it was out of stock but that site you gave us is well cheap... I will have a good look around thanks!

I suppose I will have to ask dillenger what RPM my motor is before I think about a full kit.

One major question I have is, if I have a 36v battery & controller is the motor actualyl 36v too or have I lost the plot, would my motor be ok on a 48v system?

The motor will run on voltages from 20v (underpowered) up to around 90v at which point things will start melting inside. The more volts the faster it will spin.

 

[PC2017]

The more volts the faster it will spin.

Nice one anotherkiwi cheers for that...

I did a 20 mile trek the other day a few steep hills and gravel paths on my 10.5ah battery hitting PAS 4(300w) a little mainly staying on PAS 2/3 PAS 5 on a long (up) hill I did try and stay off the throttle maybe a few quick hits and 100 meters or so on cruise control but I did forget to take my insulin so my legs were hurting on the way home. I did a few miles today, battery on the last bar not flashing yet total miles 29.6... I'll do few more tomorrow and see when it cuts out, then I'll test the 14.5ah

 

[daffy99]

Does this motor cable look like it will sort your problem?
https://www.pandaebikes.com/shop/extras/motor-cable-hall-effect-female-waterproof-male-standard-wiring-panda-eco/

Today I took delivery of https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Waterproof-Motor-Cable-Motor-Wire-Motor-Connector/32816702314.html ("Waterproof Motor Cable Motor Wire Motor Connector").

So far, this seems to be a good way to wire up a separate chain of control to the motor - much cruder connectors compared to the kit, but also much easier to play with

Next up: Send 17A sine wave to the motor. (i.e. hopefully 100 Watt more, in a nicer shape)

 

[daffy99]

Next up: Send 17A sine wave to the motor. (i.e. hopefully 100 Watt more, in a nicer shape)

I don't have the wheel (and the motor) mounted at the moment, but it would seem as if the pswpower KT 17A sine wave controller really drives the motor in a different way.

The original (KT square wave) power controller induces somewhat of a coarse noise while the more advanced controller gets the motor to start more silently and has it develop somewhat of an audible whistle (at 15 km/h). This is all running without any load, at the moment.

The KT LCD3 manual does not appear to offer customization of how exactly the motor is driven by the controller (P1 is used only to correctly compute axle rotational speed). Would that be correct?

 

[DynatechFan]

Both these shops seem to be out of stock of cassette wheel kits - anyone know if they are listed elsewhere or something?

 

[wheeliepete]

They list on Amazon as well as Ebay if you havn't looked there.

 

[Jammyb]

Yosepower’s website has been updated recently to sell to uk, still low/none in stock but looks like cutting out the middle man fees (amazon / eBay) is going to mean you can buy kits cheaper soon direct from them www.yosepower.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DynatechFan]

ooh that looks good - if only they had the integrated controller kit c/w battery in 700C with cassette fitting

I see they also have tabs for E-bikes, so they are going to be selling complete bikes too. Though it would make sense to stick with kits in my view, they are very good at that and the market is full of e-bike makers

Really glad to see them doing well and taking out the middle man/woman - at the risk of tempting fate my first kit from them has done me proud this winter - though I did see on the website a warranty statement that surprised me (in a good way):

18-Month Warranty for Quality-Related Issues
A. Quality problems within 30 days will for free new replacement.
B. Free repair within 18 months, customer pay for one-way freight.
C. Free repair after 18 months, customer pay for two-way freight.

 

[PC2017]

low/none in stock but looks like cutting out the middle man fees

Cool that they now have a better website, not so cool that the prices are cheaper i'l lower my YOSE kit asking price when they actually get some stock listed so, up till then any takers at £90

- oh well in the long run cheaper products are better for the whole community given the popularity of kits and ebike, and I do like that the 36v batteries are £30 cheaper just in case I ever need a new one!

 

[mags2]

I got one of those cheap kits without lcd this year as quick upgrade after a bit of research. However i think i may have made a mistake because while it's ok it has a few issues which i wasn't aware of. So im now considering a yosepower.

The first issue is it seems a bit all or nothing type of power. I suspect due to lack of assist levels that normally come with an lcd setup? It does try to run at a slower speed but seems to quickly ramp up or down rather than maintain what you'd expect for long. There's also a delay to restart once it's powered down.

The other annoyance is the noise and vibration it creates when its around 30%. Im not sure if it's the motor or bike thats resonating at certain frequencies?

So are these yosepower kits quieter and run better?

I did a bit of reading that sine wave controllers were better. Do they come with one?

 

[PC2017]

noise and vibration it creates when its around 30%. Im not sure if it's the motor or bike thats resonating at certain frequencies?

Hi mags2 welcome... Do you have a link, make, brand or a description of what you purchased??

Any pics of the bike as is??

Noise is a major factor when riding an ebike specially from a kit, it could be something from the motor its self, something from how you built it or the actual bike. Have you tried turning the bike upside down and starting the motor, its a bit tricky make sure you can turn it on, active throttle or PAS whilst upside down, however if you can, you can usually listen to the motor see if anything is catching and check your build.

When i first put my first kit on there was a vibration noise and i looked all over, when it was upside down it never happened, after a lot of tape on various things that could move I found it was the front brake mount, the tiny piece of metal that hinges the cable in on V-brakes...

Now the sales pitch... sorry but you can't blame a man for trying... if you have a battery my Yose front hub 26" wheel is up for sale am sure we could figure out a battery attachment if needed...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's right. You've learnt everything bad about those cheap kits. I always advise that it's worth paying a bit more to get a kit with an LCD. The Yose Power kits do indeed come with a sine wave controller. They're excellent and more or less silent.

You can smooth out your present motor and get the 5 different PAS levels if you just change the controller to a Kunteng sine wave one, which costs about £70. You can only do that if you have a sensored motor (3 thick wires and at least 5 thin ones).

 

[mags2]

Hi mags2 welcome... Do you have a link, make, brand or a description of what you purchased??

Any pics of the bike as is??

Thanks for welcome. I can't find it now but it's a basic throttle type kit with a 15nm rear hub and standard controller for around £140.

Noise is a major factor when riding an ebike specially from a kit, it could be something from the motor its self, something from how you built it or the actual bike. Have you tried turning the bike upside down and starting the motor, its a bit tricky make sure you can turn it on, active throttle or PAS whilst upside down, however if you can, you can usually listen to the motor see if anything is catching and check your build.

When i first put my first kit on there was a vibration noise and i looked all over, when it was upside down it never happened, after a lot of tape on various things that could move I found it was the front brake mount, the tiny piece of metal that hinges the cable in on V-brakes...

Now the sales pitch... sorry but you can't blame a man for trying... if you have a battery my Yose front hub 26" wheel is up for sale am sure we could figure out a battery attachment if needed...

I will try checking it all over for what might be vibrating. It only happens with a certain low speed but is quite a bad so its a bit concerning. Also thanks for the offer but im after a rear hub.

That's right. You've learnt everything bad about those cheap kits. I always advise that it's worth paying a bit more to get a kit with an LCD. The Yose Power kits do indeed come with a sine wave controller. They're excellent and more or less silent.

You can smooth out your present motor and get the 5 different PAS levels if you just change the controller to a Kunteng sine wave one, which costs about £70. You can only do that if you have a sensored motor (3 thick wires and at least 5 thin ones).

It has those wires so would that really work and be worth it?

Is there any cheaper options preferably without ordering from china as i was looking and most are either too much or have long delivery.

I was also looking at those smart/magic pie hubs but couln't find much discussion or reviews? It looks like being all built in and higher quality than most others. Id pay more for quality and quiet. Even have an old mobile i can use for the bluetooth app.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've had to fix a few of those Smart and Magic Pie motors. They let in water too easily, so no good for all-weather use.

It's difficult to beat a standard geared rear hub-motor with a sine wave controller for normal riding on UK roads. heavy riders with steep hills need something like 48v and 20 amps, while as a lighter rider (<80kg) and medium hills can get away with 36v and 15 amps. For the higher power, you need a stronger geared motor, like the Bafang BPM or CST.