Yosepower hub kits.

Nealh

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35E or GA both same capacity, GA the better cell.
 
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PC2017

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Postage looks very reasonable
I confess I didn't read the ebay listing but your instincts are spot on, just got an email 10 euros FedEx - bargain...

From what I skimmed over they limit stock/storage by making them to order...

I do think we may have found my future battery maker!:cool:

GA the better cell.
There's def not much in price difference...So how do we gauge the "better" cell, is it from experience, the data sheet, general consensus or something entirely different?
 

wheeliepete

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From what I skimmed over they limit stock/storage by making them to order...
Looks like you have until the 3rd December to guarantee pre xmas delivery. I think the GA cell is so well established as a go for cell, that it is very hard to overlook.
 

PC2017

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pre xmas delivery.
Am not bothered about getting it before xmas, I need slightly warmer days before I consider buying anything, easier to start on the full project when the sun shines - Yep I think I will go for the GA cell - I think that wraps up (pun) the research for now....
 

Len2000

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Some batteries can be tricky to remove from the rack mine was all them moons ago.... the lock should be up inside the battery case not so you can feel it or see it from underneath, depending on the battery style you'll need to hold the rack with one hand and slide the battery up, it's a bit hard to explain but keep trying... + for safety I would use the brake sensors if its your 1st ebike or YOSE do sell just the sensor that fits under your own brakes otherwise the kit will work without them connected!
Thanks PC2017..helpful advice
 
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PC2017

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PC2017

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sliding/adjustable bottle mount for downtube
Try looking through this thread there might be some info that'll help, I can't remember what pages though sorry.
 
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PC2017

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Any thoughts on 48v through my front 250w YOSE motor...

Good idea? - bad idea?
 

Nealh

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The Yose front hubs don't have the torque in NM of the rears so maybe a bit weedier but no reason not to go 48v just limit the amps to 12 to start with to see how it goes. You will need a new controller (suggest dual 36/48v 15a kt ) and change connectors on peripheral's.

Currently you are prob seeing 430/440w max at the wheel ?
With 48v @ 12a you would see about 450/460w max at the wheel, though with 15a controller can tweak it up to 576w.​
 

PC2017

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Currently you are prob seeing 430/440w max at the wheel ?
Yep strangely though, I forgot to mention this a while back and is the reason for the 48v question - with the YOSE LCD3 it cuts off bang at 15.4mph 440w(speed limit set to max 40 kph or 50 I can't rem) but, and I never did run it with the dillenger LCD3 as I wanted it to record the OD, now it does not cut off at 15.4 and seems to just drop off at 17.4mph however the two LCD's were run off the same controller(dillenger)

12 to start with to see how it goes
Yer cool - I was thinking about just getting the battery and controller, then buying the rear 48v later when I have accumulated some more funds... then thinking about it brings me to more crazy questions, without buying lots of different controllers is there a way of reducing the amps from one controller?
 

Nealh

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LCD3 allows you to reduce amps using C5 parameter by up to -5a on older s/w versions or newer s/w versions by a % rate up to 50%.
Controller needs to be rated to handle 48v, most 36v controllers only have 50v caps so will not handle 48v. The dual voltage and true 48v controllers will have 63v rated caps.
 

anotherkiwi

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LCD3 allows you to reduce amps using C5 parameter by up to -5a on older s/w versions or newer s/w versions by a % rate up to 50%.
Controller needs to be rated to handle 48v, most 36v controllers only have 50v caps so will not handle 48v. The dual voltage and true 48v controllers will have 63v rated caps.
Should read: "Will not handle a 48v battery hot off the charger", mine handles LiPo 12S charged to 49.8 peak just fine.
 

PC2017

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Controller needs to be rated to handle 48v
Cool i'l check that C5 out - I was planning on getting a 48v controller but the Julet after market 2 on topbikekit only come as 15amp and 22amp max rated.

Will not handle a 48v battery hot off the charger
I never thought of that - sweet - it'll still blow up knowing my luck!
 

PC2017

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So if I got the 22a I would be looking at setting C5=03 for 11a or C5=04 for 14.66a thats a massive 700+ watts:eek:

@11a that would bring the 250w inline with my 350w speed wise(ish)

So why does the manual say 01 & 02 are "undefined"
 

anotherkiwi

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So if I got the 22a I would be looking at setting C5=03 for 11a or C5=04 for 14.66a thats a massive 700+ watts:eek:

@11a that would bring the 250w inline with my 350w speed wise(ish)

So why does the manual say 01 & 02 are "undefined"
Probably left for OEM bike builders so they can set their value(s) there.
 

Nealh

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Should read: "Will not handle a 48v battery hot off the charger", mine handles LiPo 12S charged to 49.8 peak just fine.
Quite right for 12s for someone like your self or I , who understand and can set max cell to 41.5v each but 36v/50v caps controller no use at all for 48v/13s battery as the max volts per cell would be a tad under storage charge of 38.5v.
 

Nealh

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Cool i'l check that C5 out - I was planning on getting a 48v controller but the Julet after market 2 on topbikekit only come as 15amp and 22amp max rated.


I never thought of that - sweet - it'll still blow up knowing my luck!
Shame they only do KT/Hailong controller and not the standard controller in Julet as well.