Hi- I’ve built an ebike from a kit about 12 years ago- decent sized from hub and 24v originally, but I took it up to 36v and it had more power and was very useable- I’ve no idea what make the hub is and I’ve never been able to open it as I’ve not got a large enough c-spanner. The controller was a Leyen type- the Ebay seller had bought these kits and realised they were less attractive than he thought, so sold them. It was this bike I cut my teeth on as far as ebikes.
Roll on a few years- I had 2 aluminium framed MTBs and I did a Covid project- one a front and a year later, the other a rear YosePower kits.
The kits are easy to build and legal- the front one is 250w 36v and the rear 350w. The rear one has an integrated controller; the front is a tradition style- both are LISHUI and its these that I’m going to share my wisdom on. The hubs can be dismantled as they are screws, but careful wit the length of set-screws for your disc brakes- the supplied ones are too short and the threads fail.
Its been covered a few times on here- the LISHUI with the c500 user-interface cannot be modified from the screen other than the most basic of functions
The front wheel controller lasted me about 2000 miles then the front light interface stopped working- I thought it was the lead open circuit, or the lamp itself- but it was a 510ohn wire-wound resistor that had burnt out- big time. So, I replaced the controller and back in business- its handy having a light controlled of the c500 scree, as I ride all year, all weathers.
Now- the rear Yose kit- its got the integrated controller- that means the battery connector/plate has the controller built in and its potted- They pop up on ebay every so often- BROKEN.
I’m not sure if its overheating- but I haven’t noticed mine getting hot- it is after all completely exposed. I have noticed now for some while that occasionally when I’m on a hill, the motor seems to single-phase and gets noisy- so I suspect a hall or phase is losing- and I suspect it’s the controller that’s about to go- as it does ‘hang’ on slightly- keep powering after either PAS or thumb throttle are released.
I’ve bought a rear wheel controller- non-integrated- but it will need a power lead, as all LISUI controllers have JULET connectors.
The front and read controllers appear not to be interchangeable- not sure why- the plugs don’t clip home- so when my controller fails, ill modify the battery connector/holder to have 2 fly leads to the replacement controller and ill remove the JULET connector, as YosePower want £10 for the lead…
Roll on a few years- I had 2 aluminium framed MTBs and I did a Covid project- one a front and a year later, the other a rear YosePower kits.
The kits are easy to build and legal- the front one is 250w 36v and the rear 350w. The rear one has an integrated controller; the front is a tradition style- both are LISHUI and its these that I’m going to share my wisdom on. The hubs can be dismantled as they are screws, but careful wit the length of set-screws for your disc brakes- the supplied ones are too short and the threads fail.
Its been covered a few times on here- the LISHUI with the c500 user-interface cannot be modified from the screen other than the most basic of functions
The front wheel controller lasted me about 2000 miles then the front light interface stopped working- I thought it was the lead open circuit, or the lamp itself- but it was a 510ohn wire-wound resistor that had burnt out- big time. So, I replaced the controller and back in business- its handy having a light controlled of the c500 scree, as I ride all year, all weathers.
Now- the rear Yose kit- its got the integrated controller- that means the battery connector/plate has the controller built in and its potted- They pop up on ebay every so often- BROKEN.
I’m not sure if its overheating- but I haven’t noticed mine getting hot- it is after all completely exposed. I have noticed now for some while that occasionally when I’m on a hill, the motor seems to single-phase and gets noisy- so I suspect a hall or phase is losing- and I suspect it’s the controller that’s about to go- as it does ‘hang’ on slightly- keep powering after either PAS or thumb throttle are released.
I’ve bought a rear wheel controller- non-integrated- but it will need a power lead, as all LISUI controllers have JULET connectors.
The front and read controllers appear not to be interchangeable- not sure why- the plugs don’t clip home- so when my controller fails, ill modify the battery connector/holder to have 2 fly leads to the replacement controller and ill remove the JULET connector, as YosePower want £10 for the lead…
