Yose Power Hub- need a new rim!

[ad101]

Dear Pedelecers!

I have a rear hub motor wheel that I bought from Yose Power ~2 and a half years ago. Been very happy with it and would fully recommend it to anyone. I've knackered the rim now though and need to rebuild it.

The stickers say it is a "HJC Centerial DA-250 26" 559x19 ALLOY 6061-T6" with 36h. Ideally I just want to know the ERD so that I can spec up a new build with a better rim but if anyone knows where I can buy the same rim again I may just go for another one to save some hassle for now (the spokes are fine...).

Any ideas much appreciated... otherwise I'll measure the ERD myself eventually and post on here in case anyone else wants it.

Thanks,

Adam

 

[Jodel]

Can't help with sourcing the same rim or the ERD.

If you are going to the effort of rebuilding the wheel, I'd probably go with a hefty touring type rim such as the Ryde Sputnik and Sapim strong spokes laced in a single cross pattern. My Shengyi rear motor hub has a flange diameter of 156mm. With a 700C wheel I tried a twin cross pattern, but the spoke entry angles were just too acute and I ended up breaking some spokes after a while (on a tandem though, so 'heavy duty' use). A solo may be OK.

I don't know the flange diameter of your motor, but with a 26" wheel, I'd certainly be tempted to go with a single cross pattern.

If you are not already aware of it, the 'Grin' site in Canada has an excellent spoke length calculator and instructional videos.

If you decide to go with something like a Sputnik, then get the rim first and measure the ERD yourself. I really rate Sputniks for strength, but the ERD can vary by several mm on the same type of rim.

 

[Nealh]

The Yose uses a smaller dia hub, I think 129mm or so. I used a 2x lacing for my one with 14g sapim strongs.

 

[Sturmey]

Hi. Using the old spokes has worked out ok for me on front wheels or where the rider in light. Rear spoke breakage can be a problem with heavy riders. Choices in rims can be limited. You left out two important bits of information that helps to select a rim. The first is do you use a disk brake or a rim brake. The second is to measure the height of the cross section of the rim. My rear yose 700 rims were around 25mm high.
If you use a disk brake and your rims are 25mm high, as i suspect, I would recommend the rim below or similar. You may be able to source from uk supplier.
When replacing the rim, just loosing all the spokes, tape the new rim to old rim with valve holes line up and change over spokes in groups of nine starting at nearest. Leave everything loose at first and finish by trueing and tightening the wheel, starting on the drive side. Cover the cable end and dont damage electric cable and connector.
The valve holes may need to be enlarged for different valve type. I recommend not using rims with eyelets as holes can be a little tight for some larger spoke nipples and this can cause the spokes to bend and fatigue/break at the nipples.

Buy Ryde Rim Andra 10 26 x 1.75 36 Hole Disc - Black at HBS

Order the Ryde Rim Andra 10 26 x 1.75 36 Hole Disc - Black online

hollandbikeshop.com

 

[ad101]

Thanks everyone for the replies!

I hadn't thought too hard about the pattern- the wheel is 2x on both sides at the moment and I will probably stick with it as I've had no troubles there.

Sturmey- a solid assumption but amazingly for 2022, I'm rocking rim brakes. I've not used Holland before but wow they have quite a range! Is it simple to get such things to the UK post- Brexit? My rim is ~25mm deep and this one caught me eye as the only with a possible chance of fitting as a straight swap....Any concerns on that one? It's quite heavy which I take as mildly reassuring.

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-wheels/bicycle-rims/bicycle-rim-26-atb/contec-rim-classic-x19-26-inch-19-559-36-hole-alu-black/

Thanks again,

Adam

 

[Sturmey]

Yes, that rim looks good. It has no eyelets, so this means that the spoke holes can be enlarged a little if necessary if using original ebike heavier spokes & nipples. You cant change the spoke cross pattern if using the original spokes. Unfortunately, Brexit has added difficulties, so you need to factor in additional costs etc. sjs cycles uk have a selection of rims that you can check but I dont see anything that will fit without changing the spokes. Some people here have bought rims from ali express etc but I have never used them.

Rims - 26' - 559 | Rims & Tape | Wheels | SJS Cycles

By far the most common 26' wheel type now

www.sjscycles.co.uk

 

[tony-t]

Dear Pedelecers!

I have a rear hub motor wheel that I bought from Yose Power ~2 and a half years ago. Been very happy with it and would fully recommend it to anyone. I've knackered the rim now though and need to rebuild it.

The stickers say it is a "HJC Centerial DA-250 26" 559x19 ALLOY 6061-T6" with 36h. Ideally I just want to know the ERD so that I can spec up a new build with a better rim but if anyone knows where I can buy the same rim again I may just go for another one to save some hassle for now (the spokes are fine...).

Any ideas much appreciated... otherwise I'll measure the ERD myself eventually and post on here in case anyone else wants it.

Thanks,

Adam

hello Adam
I have the same problem..Rim has worn out and split

Did you ever find a rim with the same ERD to fit the yose power rear hub?
I.e. HJC Centerial DA-250 26" 559x19 ALLOY 6061-T6

yose said the ERD is 526.5mm

Thanks
tony

 

[thelarkbox]

if using rim brakes perhaps a steel rim would be a wise option as it would resist wear much better than a softer alloy?

If your spoke spanner is a cheap multi size option like mine, tape off all the not used nipple gaps it will save you hours tho a proper spoke spanner is the best option

If unsure of spoke size - amazon-prime and no quible returns..

 

[Cadence]

if using rim brakes perhaps a steel rim would be a wise option as it would resist wear much better than a softer alloy?

That may be so, but my memory of steel rims on my Claud Butler racer in the 1960's is of very poor braking, even with Weinmann centre-pulls, which were the best at the time. I can't imagine how dangerous steel rims and rim brakes would be on a converted bike!
I am coming round to what saneagle is always saying - disc brakes are the way to go. I've come to the conclusion that alloy rims will always wear more on an electric bike, but it can be reduced by careful pad selection. You either have hard pads and wear out rims quickly or soft pads and change them frequently. I'm using either Clarks Elite or BBB Tristop pads, which are soft. I found Shimano pads awful, even on a non-electric bike. They are very hard and generate a grey 'paste' on the rims which grinds them and creates aluminium swarf, which inbeds into the pads.
As for rims, Ryde Andrea's apparently have a thicker and wider brake surface developed for touring bikes and tandems, although I've not needed to replace a rim - yet!

 

[sjpt]

I absolutely agree with cadence, steel rims and rim brakes are a lethal combination. (How did our parents ever survive long enough for us to exist?)

 

[saneagle]

Thanks everyone for the replies!

I hadn't thought too hard about the pattern- the wheel is 2x on both sides at the moment and I will probably stick with it as I've had no troubles there.

Sturmey- a solid assumption but amazingly for 2022, I'm rocking rim brakes. I've not used Holland before but wow they have quite a range! Is it simple to get such things to the UK post- Brexit? My rim is ~25mm deep and this one caught me eye as the only with a possible chance of fitting as a straight swap....Any concerns on that one? It's quite heavy which I take as mildly reassuring.

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-wheels/bicycle-rims/bicycle-rim-26-atb/contec-rim-classic-x19-26-inch-19-559-36-hole-alu-black/

Thanks again,

Adam

It's almost certain that you'll need different spokes for whatever rim you get. They all have different ERDs, and you can never trust the ERDs quoted in any listing, so be careful and check it before ordering spokes.

Assuming that you have 13g spokes at the moment, replace them with 14g ones if you want a reliable wheel. Definitely do not go up to 12g, thinking it will make your wheel stronger.

 

[guerney]

It'd be nice if universal spokes were available, which users could simply cut to length at home, with no spoke threading tool required. There's at least one way to do it, but how reliable such spokes would be I won't know without testing. Perhaps universal spokes already exist out there somewhere?

 

[Sturmey]

Perhaps universal spokes already exist out there somewhere?

I have made 'Z bend spokes' for repairs without problems. They are handy in that you can get a bike immediately back on the road with them using longer spokes. I have never done a complete wheel with them yet.

Z Spokes, all you need to know

Name a spoke-hub connection that is entirely overlooked (except by veteran mechanic, Jim Langley). Of course, the Z-bend spoke, also known as dog-leg or S-bend. An abrupt left and then right bend enables it to connect with a hub drilled for J-bend spokes, bear full tension, and last as long as a...

wheelfanatyk.com

 

[guerney]

I have made 'Z bend spokes' for repairs without problems. They are handy in that you can get a bike immediately back on the road with them using longer spokes. I have never done a complete wheel with them yet.

Z Spokes, all you need to know

Name a spoke-hub connection that is entirely overlooked (except by veteran mechanic, Jim Langley). Of course, the Z-bend spoke, also known as dog-leg or S-bend. An abrupt left and then right bend enables it to connect with a hub drilled for J-bend spokes, bear full tension, and last as long as a...

wheelfanatyk.com

Very useful and interesting! Thanks for posting about that. I'll definitely make these linked in the article:

Make Your Own Z-Bend Pliers

How To and Training Articles in Fly RC Magazine and on www.flyrc.com

www.flyrc.com

I have never done a complete wheel with them yet.

Is that because you worry about them breaking? At what temperature do manufacturers bend spokes? Are they heat treated afterwards? If so, how?

There's at least one way to do it

At least two ways then.

 

[Sturmey]

Is that because you worry about them breaking? At what temperature do manufacturers bend spokes? Are they heat treated afterwards? If so, how?

They are bent cold. Bending and cutting 36 spokes for doing a complete wheel could be tedious and clutter a small regular non electric hub. But they are strong and there is a trick for fitting them to small hubs without removing the freewheel.if that is necessary.

 

[Sturmey]

hello Adam
I have the same problem..Rim has worn out and split
Did you ever find a rim with the same ERD to fit the yose power rear hub?
I.e. HJC Centerial DA-250 26" 559x19 ALLOY 6061-T6

yose said the ERD is 526.5mm

Thanks
tony

If you cant get or come close to the original rim size. you will also have also to replace the spokes and nipples. (preferably 14g)
I have posted below a simply way to calculate the replacement spoke length if you keep to the same pattern. It can save you worrying about ERD.

Wheel Building Help

I need some advice on getting my wheels rebuilt. I'm not rebuilding myself, I don't have the skill. The wheels on my Wisper 806 are in a shocking state. I've only had it 6 months (ok, it was an ex-demo) and they are very badly corroded and have had regular spoke failures. To the extent that on...

www.pedelecs.co.uk