Yose Power 350w rear drive - Kit review and stuttering fault

GaryMc

Finding my (electric) wheels
Dec 25, 2018
11
2
Thanks for the reply. I checked over the PAS sensor and connections before when the original fault happened, but I suppose I can do so again with the crank off. I'm pretty sure that the outer ring of the sensor is well fixed to the bottom bracket and the inner ring is a good fit on the axle. As for internal cable damage, I suppose it's possible. Likewise, I suppose the sensor could be damaged inside. I didn't tighten up any cable ties recently so I don't know why it would suddenly get worse.

In any case, it would be relatively cheap to buy a new sensor and cable to see what happens. That would at least eliminate any doubt about the PAS system.

Cheers,

Gary
 

wheeliepete

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 28, 2016
2,047
757
61
Devon
I think you have caused some damage to the PAS sensor in your early fitment problems. As said, the symptoms point to this rather than a faulty controller.
 

GaryMc

Finding my (electric) wheels
Dec 25, 2018
11
2
Yep, you could be right. I've just ordered a new sensor, so I'll soon know;-)
 

GaryMc

Finding my (electric) wheels
Dec 25, 2018
11
2
Quick update. I have had quite exemplary service from Yose power. After ordering the new sensor they said they would send me both a sensor and controller, tracked from China via TNT. They also refunded the price of the sensor there and then. They asked that I test both the sensor and controller and send back the controller if the new sensor cured the fault.

Sure enough, I got the new parts within a week but have only just got the time to install the new sensor. I was a bit worried about pushing the new sensor all the way home so that the outer teeth mated with the bottom bracket slots. Inevitably, the sensor has to go past the square taper and ride up onto the circular part of the axle, which is quite a tight fit and causes a bit of extra friction between the inner and outer ring.

I looked at all sorts of ways to get around this but ended up just putting it on and seeing how it went.

And the answer is that it seems to be going pretty well. I took the bike out for 15 mins and did loads of stopping and starting. It's more responsive now than before and doesn't hesitate when pulling away from a stop.

I'll try it for a week or two to make sure the problem doesn't reappear.

Thanks again folks for your previous input.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lyme

lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
33
Staffordshire
Pleased you have hopefully managed to get sorted out and the kit performs to expectations. Any contact I have had with Yose have been good as I have one of their kits which I have been pleased with so far although rear hub wheel was poorly built and I have now rebuilt it into another rim of a different size.
 

lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
33
Staffordshire
Converted my bike last summer and it has been fine until today. Rode mine for the first time since rebuilding the motor into another wheel rim and mine has started with the same symptoms as yours has had, travelling along OK and then momentarily cutting out and then back in again. Will have to check all the connections and look at the PAS
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
61
West Sx RH
If you are using the V12L pas then I would look at that for any cutting out issue.
I use std D12 on the rhs and works perfick also recheck your P1 setting & C1.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
61
West Sx RH
Thanks for the info and I'm using the original PAS supplied with the Yose kit.
The V12L a few have had issues with theirs, you need to make sure it isn't pinched tight between the crank arm and BB, also make sure the outer section is firm and the inner rotates freely when the BB axle is turned.
If the splines of the sensor don't grip the axle well use a wind of tape or two on the axle for it to grip.
 

lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
33
Staffordshire
Just had the bike upside down and works fine on hand throttle but cuts in and out when pedalling, checked connections and removed crank arm and check PAS but everything appears OK and inner park of PAS turns when other crank turned. Is a faulty PAS the likely outcome?

Thanks
Alan
 

wheeliepete

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 28, 2016
2,047
757
61
Devon
Did you check for free space between outer shell of sensor and crank arm before you removed it? As Neal said, this sensor does seem easily damaged if squeezed on first fitment.
 

lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
33
Staffordshire
Yes enough free space between crank and PAS as had to fit a longer bottom bracket to allow fitment. Just been looking at the settings and everything appears OK.
 

wheeliepete

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 28, 2016
2,047
757
61
Devon
Maybe they are just a little fragile or weak, they have been around for a relatively short amount of time compared to the old disc sensors. I've not pulled one apart yet, so not sure on construction. It's possible one of the magnets has dislodged, causing the stutter, as it would on the disc type sensors. Maybe we should ask GaryMc to open up his broken one.
 

lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
33
Staffordshire
Good idea ref GaryMc and I will contact Yose for a warranty replacement as kit was purchased last summer and bike only covered 260 miles.
 

wheeliepete

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 28, 2016
2,047
757
61
Devon
Would be good to know what's going on inside even if it's not repairable. Good luck with Yose, hopefully they will treat you well.
 

lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
33
Staffordshire
Just sent an email to Yose asking if they can supply a new PAS as only purchased the kit in July 2018. I will see what they say but everyone else appears to rates their customer service.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
61
West Sx RH
C1 setting try all three values 05,06 & 07 for operation long with C14 #3
 
  • Like
Reactions: lyme

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
61
West Sx RH
Double check the motor connector is in all the way.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lyme