Yose 350W not engaging after left standing

[saneagle]

Thanks again guys. Where would I be without you.
I thought maybe I had got lucky and turning it upside down had dislodged a foreign body but I took the bike out this morning and - I should be so lucky huh? Same old trouble but having a better idea how it works I could sense the clutch biting after a few blips of the throttle. Had to do this a few times before it started to behave. I think the difference is we had a frost last night and I guess there is grease that becomes solid at low temperatures. So it must all come apart. I had found Yosepower in UK and they asked me for the serial number. Can't see it at the moment so I guess it is either behind the freewheel or somewhere inside. I see I should be able to remove the screws without necessarily taking the freewheel off. Yosepower in UK appear to be in a bike shop about 10 miles away so maybe I can take the clutch there to pick up a replacement.
In videos I have seen the rollers and springs look as if they are meant to be clear of all grease but not accessible without some destruction. So maybe a good flush will do the trick once the clutch is removed. The gears clearly need grease which I take to be silicone I see can be had on Ebay, unless plumbers seal grease will also do for this.

It'll be rust. After some slipping, the rust gets worn off. I bet when you open the motor, you'll see that there's been water in it. Your cable does exit the axle downwards, does it?

 

[Jaypeedee]

Hi Saneagle, I t exits not quite vertically down but about 5 o'clock. Looks like I will need to post some photos when I get it apart.

 

[Nealh]

If using /replacing grease use a liquid grease suitable for nylon gears.

 

[saneagle]

Hi Saneagle, I t exits not quite vertically down but about 5 o'clock. Looks like I will need to post some photos when I get it apart.

That's probably OK.

 

[saneagle]

If using /replacing grease use a liquid grease suitable for nylon gears.

His clutch is the sealed type, so no way to get grease in it. It might be worth trying to get some 3-in-One through the joins, though a new clutch and gears is only £12, so that would be the better option.

 

[Bagpuss1962]

I have had a Yose 350 700C rear wheel kit fitted for a bit over 4 years now and it has covered about 1K miles with no problems and was a godsend to get me out into the countryside in lockdown. Just recently it has developed a fault in that after being left standing say overnight it does not respond to the pedal sensor when I start off and if I press the hand throttle either nothing happens or the motor spins but does not engage. If I do this a few times, sometimes while pedalling as, well the motor engages as it should rather than spinning free and there is response to the pedals turning. Mostly this is then OK probably for the rest of the day but sometimes the problem recurs. Unfortunately this leaves me reluctant to risk going far from home as sometimes it takes a while to nudge it into operation.

I have undone and checked all the connections and checked the alignment of the pedal sensor and disc. Any suggestions as to what is going wrong and how to fix it.

I have got a Raleigh Evo ebike and the rear motor seemed to disengage and make a strange noise. After extensive research i found that if you lay your bike down and dribble a very light oil into the motor, give it time to soak in. In my case this frees the sticking parts. Happy days.

 

[Jaypeedee]

I have now removed the wheel and extracted the motor from the hub. There was no need to remove the freewheel/cassette to get at the screws. So far I have not been able to find any identifying marks indicating which motor I have. The hub has RP engraved inside it and the clutch assembly has a rotational arrow and a number HC20200503ZY engraved on it looking like a manufacture date.
The diameter of the disc holding all together is 72mm. The whole thing needs a circlip to be removed to get it off and I am waiting for circlip pliers from Ebay. Is there anything here which identifies my motor to more experienced eyes and what replacement part I need?

 

[saneagle]

I have now removed the wheel and extracted the motor from the hub. There was no need to remove the freewheel/cassette to get at the screws. So far I have not been able to find any identifying marks indicating which motor I have. The hub has RP engraved inside it and the clutch assembly has a rotational arrow and a number HC20200503ZY engraved on it looking like a manufacture date.
The diameter of the disc holding all together is 72mm. The whole thing needs a circlip to be removed to get it off and I am waiting for circlip pliers from Ebay. Is there anything here which identifies my motor to more experienced eyes and what replacement part I need?View attachment 62091View attachment 62092

You have to count the number of teeth on the gears, then look on Aliexpress.

As it looks clean. I think it would be worth trying to get some 3-in One oil (must be that type) into it to see if it starts working again.

 

[Jaypeedee]

Good news to report. I took the clutch assembly off and thoroughly washed it with Holts brake cleaner. All then seemed doing as it should but I followed Saneagle's advice and gave it some 3 in 1. There is no access directly to the rollers and springs as the side plates are riveted on but I figured 3 in 1 is pretty thin and would find its way in by capillary action if applied liberally to the centre bush and left for a couple of days. I applied lithium grease to the cogs and reassembled today. On a trial ride of several miles with deliberate stopping and starting it is working perfectly. Never saw any rust but Saneagle's advice has done the trick. I would have no qualms about replacing the clutch now but the mechanism seems so beautifully simple I think it would last many miles before that became necessary. Repeat treatment might be needed after another 5 years.

For what it is worth yosepower.co.uk told me a 2020 motor was now discontinued and I should consider replacing with new. Maybe I got the wrong guy on a bad day because I think my motor has been exceptional value for money and looks to be well built now I have seen it from the inside.

 

[saneagle]

Good news to report. I took the clutch assembly off and thoroughly washed it with Holts brake cleaner. All then seemed doing as it should but I followed Saneagle's advice and gave it some 3 in 1. There is no access directly to the rollers and springs as the side plates are riveted on but I figured 3 in 1 is pretty thin and would find its way in by capillary action if applied liberally to the centre bush and left for a couple of days. I applied lithium grease to the cogs and reassembled today. On a trial ride of several miles with deliberate stopping and starting it is working perfectly. Never saw any rust but Saneagle's advice has done the trick. I would have no qualms about replacing the clutch now but the mechanism seems so beautifully simple I think it would last many miles before that became necessary. Repeat treatment might be needed after another 5 years.

For what it is worth yosepower.co.uk told me a 2020 motor was now discontinued and I should consider replacing with new. Maybe I got the wrong guy on a bad day because I think my motor has been exceptional value for money and looks to be well built now I have seen it from the inside.

We like a story with a happy ending. Thanks.