Xiongda YTW-06 has arrived

[Jonah]

Excited to report that my Xiongda Motor and associated kit parts arrived today (from China) and on the same Fed Ex van was also my 17.2Ah Enerpak battery (from Germany). The motor is the new sensored version with a 36v KT controller. I had originally planned to get a 48v system but this is not currently available. My torque arm arrived last week. I now have everything I need to convert my Thorn Club Tour. Took the motor to my LBS to fit in the Mavic 700c rim I bought to match the bike. When I get this back it will be the scary bit (for me) of filing the dropouts to fit the motor axle. Hopefully next week will see everything completed. I will update this post with progress and first thoughts of the conversion. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to helping me choose and acquire these components and understand what I need to do to fit them.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

KT controller is much better than the one that came with my motor. I'm jealous. Let us know what you think of it. Also, I'm particularly interested in how freely the motor spins.

 

[Jonah]

Well it took a bit longer to get the wheel built as they needed to order in custom spokes. Got the wheel back late yesterday afternoon and spent the evening filing my drop outs to fit the 10mm motor axle and connecting up the parts. As my PAS magnet ring wouldn’t fit on the inner chainwheel as I had intend, my LBS suggested taking the magnets out and putting them in the 4 recesses in the chainwheel (see picture). I also had to file down the bolt heads on the motor (where the disc rotor would be attached) as they were catching on a front pannier rack mounting lug. I am pleased to say that this seems to work fine. The battery and controller are in a smallish front bag. Today I have been out for a couple of short test rides to make sure everything is working ok. Power cuts immediately when you stop pedalling so I won’t bother with the brake cut outs. Tried fitting the throttle but didn’t like it so removed it. The motor is not silent, and appears to have some resistance but perhaps it will loosen up as it runs in.

I have a couple of questions. Is the torque arm fitted correctly?
The speed display intermittently goes crazy, anything I should look at?

 

[anotherkiwi]

Couldn't you mount the torque arm directly without the second arm? From here it looks like you might be a bit close to the hole in it already to drill a second hole?

 

[Benjahmin]

Think I'd want to try and put the torque arm round the other way so that it's in tension. At the moment the implied motion is trying to push the primary arm backwards into the slot of the secondary arm.

Nice workshop by the way!

 

[Jonah]

Thanks for responses. The first bracket is just too short to reach on its own. I switched it round the other way, is this better?

 

[Nealh]

Does the hub have an internal speed sensor ? If not then you will need an external speed sensor with spoke magnet for a stable readout.

The intermittent speed reading might be down to the your LCD P2 setting and P1 if it is wrong.
Let is know what they are set to.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

With a hollowtech crank, there's always room for the PAS on the left side. I see you have the BB spacers still in place. If you chuck them, it makes space for the thickness of the magnetic disc, then you shift the sensor to the other side of its bracket so that it reaches forward over the bearing holder to bring it close to the disc.

 

[Woosh]

in my experience, fitting the regular magnet disc to the left side is quick and easy but over time, mud gets in between the crank and bearing, causing the disc to slip, you'll lose pedal assist when this happens.
I would use a 45mm hole saw to hollow out one of those 12 magnet discs than come in two pieces and held together with a circular spring. I then cabletie the spring to the spokes of the chainring.

 

[Benjahmin]

Thanks for responses. The first bracket is just too short to reach on its own. I switched it round the other way, is this better?

View attachment 23518

That's it, now if the axle tries to spin it puts the bracket into tension.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

in my experience, fitting the regular magnet disc to the left side is quick and easy but over time, mud gets in between the crank and bearing, causing the disc to slip, you'll lose pedal assist when this happens.
I would use a 45mm hole saw to hollow out one of those 12 magnet discs than come in two pieces and held together with a circular spring. I then cabletie the spring to the spokes of the chainring.

That can't happen on a hollowtech crank because the disc is completely clamped.

 

[Woosh]

That can't happen on a hollowtech crank because the disc is completely clamped.

mud connects the right side of the disc to the external bearing.
Overtime, you don't need much mud to make the disc stop turning.

 

[Jonah]

Does the hub have an internal speed sensor ? If not then you will need an external speed sensor with spoke magnet for a stable readout.

The intermittent speed reading might be down to the your LCD P2 setting and P1 if it is wrong.
Let is know what they are set to.

It must have an internal speed sensor. How do I access the P2 and P1 settings? This is the LCD I have:

 

[Jonah]

With a hollowtech crank, there's always room for the PAS on the left side. I see you have the BB spacers still in place. If you chuck them, it makes space for the thickness of the magnetic disc, then you shift the sensor to the other side of its bracket so that it reaches forward over the bearing holder to bring it close to the disc. View attachment 23521

View attachment 23522

My solution with the magnets in the chainwheel bolt holes seems to be working ok. Do you foresee a problem with it?

 

[Nealh]

Hold and press 1/up button & 3/ down button at the same time for 5 - 10 secs, the basic display settings flash on & off using 2/on off button to go thru the sequence. When the display sequence ends it stops flashing pres 1 & 3 again to enter P settings 1 to 5.

 

[Nealh]

My solution with the magnets in the chainwheel bolt holes seems to be working ok. Do you foresee a problem with it?

No real problem though with more magnets the PAS will be smoother and more responsive with a less irregular signal. The KT's are programmed to read 5, 8, 10 or 12 magnet pulses so four may even be why you are seeing a fluctuating speed reading.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

mud connects the right side of the disc to the external bearing.
Overtime, you don't need much mud to make the disc stop turning.

You seem to be under some misconception. The disc does not rely on friction on the axle turning it. It's clamped with a pretty fair force between the pedal arm and the bearing. There's no way for mud to get in. Even if it could, it wouldn't affect the axial clamping force other than to increase it.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

No real problem though with more magnets the PAS will be smoother and more responsive with a less irregular signal. The KT's are programmed to read 5, 8, 10 or 12 magnet pulses so four may even be why you are seeing a fluctuating speed reading.

KT controllers are very responsive. One time, a magnet fell out of my 10 magnet disc, which made the bike almost unrideable with PAS because the power pulsed off as the gap passed the sensor. I had to ride home using the throttle. I've never tried 4 magnets, but 5 magnet discs work OK. Maybe it's not the frequency of pulses, but the pattern that has more effect.

If the speed reading goes to zero when you're free-wheeling. You have the wrong setting in the LCD for the speed sensor.

 

[Jonah]

Hold and press 1/up button & 3/ down button at the same time for 5 - 10 secs, the basic display settings flash on & off using 2/on off button to go thru the sequence. When the display sequence ends it stops flashing pres 1 & 3 again to enter P settings 1 to 5.

P1 is 141
P2 is 1
P3 is 1
P4 is 0
P5 is 12

 

[awol]

How about removing the granny cog to make room for the original PAS disc ?

Today I have been out for a couple of short test rides to make sure everything is working ok. Power cuts immediately when you stop pedalling so I won’t bother with the brake cut outs. Tried fitting the throttle but didn’t like it so removed it. The motor is not silent, and appears to have some resistance but perhaps it will loosen up as it runs in.

Do you notice any delay in the motor start powering up when you starting pedalling, or also any delay with the throttle startup when you had the throttle connected?