Xiongda YTW-06 front hub motor into Norco Indie 3

awol

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2013
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Great, thanks for sharing!
Hopefully all parts will be available for order again after Chinese holiday ends.
I will order from Bonnie / Xiongda directly
  • 1 rear sensored YTW-06 motor
  • KT Brushless Controller
I'm sure this motor (even the sensored version) needs the Xiongda supplied controller & lcd so may be worth checking that with them before ordering
 

Jonah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2010
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The controller they supplied me was a KT controller they had tested with the new sensored motor. It is however not a pure sine wave version as their tests on that model proved the square wave model to be quieter and more effective according to Bonnie. I can’t comment on how good it is yet but it is tiny. I have got brake cut off switches but I’m hoping not to use them to keep cables to a minimum. I’ll have to see how responsive the controller / PAS is when I install it all next week.
 

jens

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 24, 2017
12
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I'm building this for my kid, a 7yo boy, so I don't have to push him, his bike and my own bike uphill on longer rides. Plus, I hope it's simply more fun. Here's the bike that's going to be converted, a 24"x2.6" plus bike for kids:

Rides are 30km with 600-800m altitude (so I hope). Do you think that will work with the 7ah battery?
I'll buy everything from Bonnie directly except the battery.
 

Benchie

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 7, 2017
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Bromsgrove
Hi Jens, I think your son will be OK getting 30km from a 7aH battery. Everyone will get a different result depending upon how much pedalling they do and how heavy they are, but based on my personal experience where I'm getting 50km from about 4aH of battery capacity, I think you will be fine.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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The KT controller uses current control, so level 1 will be about 60W. That will last about 4 hours.
 
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jens

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 24, 2017
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Hi all,
I ended up ordering 3 motors, as my godchild got so excited when I told him about the plans :D Plus 1 front motor for myself, a classic 28" Patria steel touring bike with Rohloff Gearhub, so I don't want to swap the rear wheel. Heres what I got (the motor is tiny, btw - I love it!)


I'm still unsure about batteries. I got told, 2P isn't enough, Plus, for myself, I need a battery that fits into a seatbag or maybe the handlebars, as everything else will destroy the classic look. For the kids everything's fine, bottle or box or bag. On the KT Controller it says "7A"... Can I again ask for your advice?
 
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I'm using a 2P battery with LG 3000 may cells, but I have the Lishui controller, which is only 11 amps.

Bonnie told me that you can't use any KT controller. Only the square wave one works, and it has special software for the extra-high commutation speed. She said the motor spins at 4000 rpm. That's four times the speed of your average Bafang hub motor, which is why it gives such good torque.
 

jens

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 24, 2017
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40 cells make 2kg before you start making the battery, so 2.2kg will he more like it.
 

AviatorTrainman

Pedelecer
Feb 9, 2018
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Thanks for posting a picture with every component in a single frame, Jens. I've been looking at doing a conversion for some time now, and it's great to see everything for scale. I never realized how small the controller is, or how big the magnet ring is.
 

jens

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 24, 2017
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Germany
This magnet ring is really ugly. There’re options to hide this in the bottom bracket, but they seem rather expensive.
The motor itself is beautiful.
 

AviatorTrainman

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Feb 9, 2018
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Jonah

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Aug 23, 2010
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Just a thought, would it interfere with the operation of the sensor to paint the magnets black? That would make it less obvious. And/or how about mounting the magnets directly to smallest chainring, without the ring they came in? That could make it pretty stealthy, if it worked.
I have four (actually 8 because 2 in each recess) magnets located in the smallest chainwheel and it seems to work fine. Make sure the magnet poles are all pointing the same way.
 
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You can glue the magnets directly to the chain-ring, but they must all be the right way up. You need to test to see which way up and which direction they need to rotate before doing anything.

The magnets press out quite easily. Mark them with a marker pen before you press them out.
 
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Nixtoo

Pedelecer
Jan 30, 2016
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Hello Everyone,

I’ve lurked here for a few months, reading many threads about various conversions in order to help plan my own build. Having now finished it, I thought I’d post the results on the basis it might be informative for others.

The donor bike is a Norco Indie 3 (2014) which has covered about 1500 miles. It’s a hybrid style bike with flat bars and 700C tyres. My normal fun ride is roughly 30 miles round trip, but miles 24 to 28 are a fairly constant incline that detracts from the pleasure of the rest of the ride. My thoughts were that a lightweight hub motor could be used to aid on the inclines without detracting from the normal pedal power on flatter sections (so a primary concern was not to add too much weight). Inspired by threads written by d8veh and AWOL, I decided to go with the small Xiongda YTW-06 as a front hub conversion.

I've taken a few photos of the build which I can post if I can work out how to! The finished article appears as my avatar. The bike weighed 12.1kg before I started, and the finished conversion came in at 16.5kg all up with a 36v 10S4P 11.6 Ah battery. Total cost excluding the donor bike worked out at £358 which I don't think is too bad.
Did you build the battery yourself? I have a spare bag like that and would love to use it for a battery, not sure I’m quite brave enough to self build a battery!
 

anotherkiwi

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Jan 26, 2015
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Two of those in parallel give you 12 Ah to play with and less sag all for the same price as a 10.4 Ah bottle battery!
 

Benchie

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 7, 2017
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Did you build the battery yourself? I have a spare bag like that and would love to use it for a battery, not sure I’m quite brave enough to self build a battery!
I bought a 36v 11.6 aH pre-welded cell pack from ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E-bike-Battery-11600mAh-11-6Ah-36V-40x-Panasonic-NCR18650PF-10S4P/362282917089?hash=item5459be9ce1:g:Ru8AAOSw30Ralkzv

Then I soldered on a BMS that was bought via Amazon and hoped for the best! It was actually pretty easy, but in hindsight there are plenty of 'softpack' 40 cell batteries with the BMS already included that would mount in the Topeak saddle bag. However, make sure you can actually mount this type of bag under your saddle with enough clearance to the rear tyre. Mine is pretty marginal and I have about 20mm clearance.

If I did this again (which I might do for my wife) I'd probably use the bottle battery that d8veh has identified. Less weight, and only once have I needed all the range that a 40 cell 11.6 aH capacity offers (60 miles on a hilly route, and my back side was really hurting at that point!).