XiongDa Two-Speed Motor

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trex

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 15, 2011
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I must say your using a cap head screw and a wrench to open the motor cover is a spark of genius.
Are you going to look at the clutch mechanism inside the cover?
 
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D

Deleted member 4366

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The clutch works exactly like a Q100 except that it has an additional one that locks to the boss on that output gear. All the photos are in that post on ES.

There's engineers and oily rags. An engineer can do for a penny what anyone can do for a pound.
 

patpatbut

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 25, 2012
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Does it have a high rpm version like 328rpm and front motor?

Pat
 
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Deleted member 4366

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It's two-speed. The high speed is something close to that. You can always use higher voltage to speed it up.
 

trex

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 15, 2011
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the clutch looks quite complex. Could you explain how it works?

 
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It's simpler than it looks. There's two roller clutches that work in opposite directions. The inner one locks to the boss on that gear so that the side-plate turns directly with the gear. When the motor turns the other way, the inner clutch lets go and the outer one locks the ring gear to the side-plate. The ring-gear gets its drive from the outer edge of the planetary gears. The inner gear is driven by their inner edge.
 

shemozzle999

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 28, 2009
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Thanks for the photographs d8veh , looks like the roller clutch assembly can be replaced easily if worn by removing the 6 screws and 3 retaining plates.
 
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Yes, but I think if one of the clutches gave trouble, it should be cheap enough to replace the complete side-plate and the inner output gear as a set. The whole kit is only £150, so that set should be about £25 plus postage.
 
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I went out for a ride yesterday and noticed that the motor was getting more noisy. It's done 100 miles so far. The resonance noise was originally only at low speed in low gear, but was now happening in both gears at at higher speeds, though it was still virtually silent when cruising in high gear. It started to annoy me, so I decided to open the motor and find out what was causing it.

The black grease had hardened to a waxy substance, so I got my tub of gear grease and applied copious amounts. After reassembly, no more noise. - just that nice sophisticated motor hum in both gears.

Now going out to chase a few lycros. It'll be a lot more fun now. There was no kidding them before.
 
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Alchemist

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Mar 21, 2014
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Here's hoping it lives up and lives long! Will be watching with keen interest, sounds like it might be a game-changer, or at any rate the herald of a new (ish) hub motor type. Well done with the ES run through too!

Cheers
Alchemist
 
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What grease did you use? Is that special grease specifically for gears?
It's specially formulated grease for metal gears. You can't buy it in the shops. It was a special sample from when I worked in manufacturing.
 

trex

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 15, 2011
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are you going to tell xiongda about the gear noise? your pictures of the internals show surprisingly little amount of grease when much of the gearbox/clutch is made of steel.
 
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Only the smallest planetary gears are steel. All the rest are a steel base with what looks like glass reinforced plastic moulded to them.The first motor that I opened had quite a lot of grease in it, but most of it got wiped off by handling when I fully disassembled it. The second one I opened was the first that I received. It had a normal amount of grease, but it wasn't very greasey.
 

RC23

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 18, 2014
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Germany
"A bit of leverage with two pieces of wood and a wedge soon had the frame 150mm wide."

Is it a steel or an alu frame? My alu frame comes with the standard 135mm and I suspect to widen the rear frame section.

Thanks for sharing your experiences with this double speed motor.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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I've used that method on my Rocky Mountain FS and a steel frame FS. The Rocky mountain aluminium sub-frame was stretched to about 155mm.


 
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I haven't tried horizontal drop-outs. I didn't have any problems on the steel-framed bike. I just stretched it, and then bolted everything to it as normal. I stretched the aluminium one to 155mm so that I could have the rim with no dish (equal spoke tension). I could see that the drop-outs were not parallel, but when I tightened the axle nuts, everything looked normal afterwards.