Would wiring three 5W LED lights to the 6V wire on the BBS01b be too much for the controller?

guerney

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Maybe I should get a fourth light on the handbar pointing at me, because "Hi-viz" only works at night when light is shining directly on it, and drivers rushing out from either left or right are only ever shining their headlights directly at you when it's too late to brake. With this group light gizmo, I now have a 60W limit to experiment with, for the best night-time visibility solution.
 
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guerney

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Thanks for all your advice. The 3A fuse and holder arrived yesterday, so I have attached it to the red wire:

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My soldering is terrible, but I've tested the connection with a multimeter to make sure it works.

The power module didn't look waterproof:

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To be confident of keeping moisture out, I've mummified it with self amalgamating rubber tape. The blue wire should be black, but I didn't have black wire:

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Now that the connecting cable (from the kit) is in place, routing the signal from the cable leading to the display, to the power module, I can confirm that the two lights which are already attached via the cable for lights which exit the motor, still work when activated via the display; therefore it's a splitter - it doesn't hijack the signal. Now all I need to do is connect the battery to the power module.

My question is, can I use a normal 13A block connector like this, between the battery and the controller? It'd be easier to split the power between the power module and the controller using just a basic block connector, or should I get a 60A block connector? Or something else entirely, like this:


...or should I simply solder the wires together?

...or can I just use a couple of M6 bolts and nuts, and cover those with insulation tape?
 
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guerney

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Or a couple of these?



 
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guerney

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Right. I'm going to use two of these from a 240V AC 60A connector block, which I've just bought. Will it burst into flames? We shall see, dear reader... we shall see...


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guerney

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Well, I've connected the power module to one light (for now, there will be two more, in addition to the other two lights connected via the cable for lights from the controller) and switched on the battery, and the light switches on immediately regardless of what the display light control commands. The light switch on the display only switches on the two lights already connected, the other lights from the power module turn on as soon as the battery is switched on... so all that nonsense with the routing cable was a complete waste of time and materials. Oh well. It's fine - I can add 60W of lights in total to that power module. What are the kids listening to these days? Dubstep? LED flashing lights under the bike flashing in time to dubstep it is then...
 

guerney

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And the green wire does nothing whatsoever - so much for the advertised "Brake light" functionality...
 

guerney

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I don't think I'll need the plastic sheath from the 60A connecting block, unless they get very hot - this photo was taken before I soldered them in (very badly, as usual) and wrapped them up with insulating tape, then self amalgamating rubber tape - I'm sure they won't burst into flames, because they look a lot thicker than what they replaced.:

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soundwave

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DSC_0150_01_01.JPG

8000lm :cool:
 
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guerney

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Bloody hell! That's bright! I'll use the luxmeter on my phone, measure the output of one Junstar Bafang light, and report back - I'm in the middle of getting two more headlights on right now (to go with one other headlight on the fork, and a rear Junstar light), but I can fit a total of eight on the handlebar. Then I'll need a beer chiller, to use the other watts...
 

soundwave

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guerney

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I shouldn't have bothered trying to get more lights on, but it was to be better seen by drivers, so it was worth a go. I think my controller is blown. The battery is fine, it's showing lights when I press the button on the side, and it's reading 37.5V on the multimeter, but when I connect it to the motor, nothing happens when I try to start it, using the power on buttton on the handlebar. I've disconnected the "group light adapter", but it's still dead. Time to buy a new controller? What can I check to attempt a repair, or verify that it's dead?
 
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soundwave

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soundwave

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made in china ;)
 

guerney

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Oh well. It was worth a go.
 

guerney

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It seemed to be going so well :rolleyes:

What electronic component(s) are most likely to get damaged if I, while soldering those 60A connectors, happened to melt wire insulation further down the wire, to cause a short circuit? That might have happened - I did hear a spark and a sort of quiet humming noise, while I was connecting and disconnecting things in panic, trying to work out why nothing was working. But it may have been caused by something else, such as that trash "Power module" I connected it to. Maybe I was in too much of a hurry - Tesco turned up to deliver groceries. Either way, it's a dodo. Maybe I should just buy a new controller? Battery seems to be fine.
 
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Nealh

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The controller is completely sealed with silicone, trying to pry it all off will cause more damage to components, you will likely not find the issue any how by looking.
You may have shorted a mosfet for which you can try testing with a meter., one will need to remove the controller to do so to get at the wiring, also at the same time one can test the 5v line and the hall sensors via the wiring. That is really all one can do unless a true wiz at software pcb design.
 

guerney

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The controller is completely sealed with silicone, trying to pry it all off will cause more damage to components, you will likely not find the issue any how by looking.
The new controller has arrived and I'm about to take the old one off - is there any point in applying multi-purpose clear silicone around the connectors?
 

guerney

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In my experience so far - this is a fantastic, cheap soldering iron for power cables:


This is a very good flux, acid-free:


I'm waiting for this 4:1 marine heat shrink to arrive:


...in the meantime, I'm filling my home with solder related smog, practicing... I'm getting better! Having the right tool for the job helps, and that 100W Silverline soldering iron heats everything up very fast indeed, after a 5 minute warm up to get up to temperature.

I'm installing this waterproof motorcycle light switch for the three lights, which will connect via an inline fuse to the battery:

 
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