Would this bike be suitable for ebike conversion

[Artstu]

there is no reason for me to argue with your personal experience. I sell bikes to people of all shapes and sizes, each customer has his/her own requirements, there isn't one size fits all solution. As I said, here is the tool to guesstimate what battery capacity you'd need. You can input your weight, bike's weight, frame type, wheel size, tyre type, wind speed, elevation etc. Change the power input to get to your target speed then subtract that required power by how much you want to pedal, then you'll know what battery you need.

I'm pleased you make that distinction, perhaps when stating your bike will do 100+ miles you could also say that some owners may only get 30 miles.

I'd hate for someone to buy a bike that the retailer claims will cover 100 miles, only to discover it will actually only do 30 miles in the terrain they cycle in.

 

[Julie]

Here are the measurement in CMs, it gets really small quite quickly.

 

[Woosh]

I'm pleased you make that distinction, perhaps when stating your bike will do 100+ miles you could also say that some owners may only get 30 miles.

I'd hate for someone to buy a bike that the retailer claims will cover 100 miles, only to discover it will actually only do 30 miles in the terrain they cycle in.

if you check the web page: http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?karoo

I only give an average indication of 50 miles for 13AH. Legality aside, if you derestrict the Karoo, you won't cause much attention because the assistance reduces quickly above 15mph to nil at 22mph.

The Woosh Karoo:
Matt black classic trekking frame, 50(13AH)/65(15AH)/80(17AH) miles on flat roads. Natural ride feel. 8-Fun motor. 8-speed, 18.5kgs (with 13AH battery)/19kgs (15AH/17AH)

 

[Julie]

Would this make a good bike for conversion, there is a new one ebay at the moment, it's got a couple of days to run, but if i can get it for a good price would it be suitable and easy to convert?

 

[Benjahmin]

Hi Julie,
The bike in my avatar ia a Carrera Crossfire that I converted. It has an Ezee front hub (so different to what you're asking) but I do carry two batteries.
The kit battery is rack mounted, it has the advantage of being connected to the controller (also mounted under the rack) by Anderson connectors.

The second battery is carried in a pannier. I have made a splitter lead (you can buy them) so both batteries are connected at the same time. This means
1 You are not carrying dead weight.
2 Both batteries work together meaning less stress on each (current draw is halved) extending battery life.
3 It is nominally a 28Ah battery (2 x 14Ah + 1008Wh) If that doesn't get you to work and back you need a motorbike
4 Because of capacity each battery is not so deeply cycled so, again, extending it's life.
My second battery I had made by Jimmy at Insat, to my spec.
The weight is quite high and does affect handling, but is OK on roads, wouldn't want to be riding technical tracks though, not sure how the addittion of the low weight of a rear hub would affect it.
As to the wheel, so long as you check the spokes regularly, I don't think it would be a problem. Two batteries and a motor would be in the region of 10Kg, don't think that's excessive.
I think a decent step through frame would be doable, look for one as rigid as possible. Definitely would want at least a front disc brake with a view to making it hydraulic, though magura HS11's are good.
Hats off to you. To be working that length of shift and be even thinking of cycling deserves respect.

 

[Benjahmin]

Crossed with your post.

That looks just the ticket. Don't really need the hub dynamo, but as it's there......
The rack looks a bit flimsy but you could get a kit with a rack battery. If you want to parallel batteries you need one with cable connection to make it easier.

 

[Julie]

Thanks, that's really interesting, it would be wonderful to have 2 batteries that actually worked together and did not need to be swapped over, I definitely want hydraulic discs, I demoed a bike with mechanical discs and it was nowhere near as good as hydraulic.

 

[Julie]

I never noticed the hub dynamo, if it was easy to remove i'd get rid of it, i have a Cateye Volt 1200 as my main light, it should be easy enough to attach a sturdier rack if it has mounting points i would have thought (it wasn't so easy to find one for my MTB with no mounting points)

 

[Woosh]

Would this make a good bike for conversion, there is a new one ebay at the moment, it's got a couple of days to run, but if i can get it for a good price would it be suitable and easy to convert?

View attachment 26122 View attachment 26123

it's nice and easy bike to convert with the XF08C kit but (legality aside) you can only maintain about 20mph with the XF08C - your Trek is at present substantially faster.
The benefit is you get about 20% more miles out of the XF08C at 20mph than the Trek at 22mph.
If you fit that Cube with a BBS01 or BBS02, you can maintain the same speed as with the Trek but power consumption will be higher, not lower.

 

[Julie]

Thanks, something to think about, I suppose other faster hub kits are available, but not suitable to discuss here?

 

[Woosh]

Thanks, something to think about, I suppose other faster hub kits are available, but not suitable to discuss here?

I see nothing wrong with discussing hypothetically. Geared hubs and CD kits have excellent power to weight ratio at under 28mph, beyond that, direct drive motors.
Anything higher than 20mph will require considerable increase in torque: BBS01 and SWX02 code 12/13 can maintain 22mph easily, code 9/10 24mph. After that, BBS02.

 

[Julie]

Theoretically, could a 500w hub motor easily cruise at 22mph and peak at faster speeds?

 

[Woosh]

Theoretically, could a 500w hub motor easily cruise at 22mph and peak at faster speeds?

it does not matter much what is on the label, you need to check the characteristics of the motor. Those advertised as 500W or 1000W or even higher, 1500W, 2000W etc are usually direct drive motors, they do not have internal reduction gears. They are good at over 20mph but their heavy weight cause all sort of issues. Normal bikes are not built to have them.

 

[Julie]

Thanks, it looks like a have a lot of research to do it want to convert a bike to an ebike.

 

[Nealh]

Theoretically, could a 500w hub motor easily cruise at 22mph and peak at faster speeds?

For 20mph and over you need 48v.
My 36v Yose 350w hub @17a can do 28mph in highest assist level 5.

 

[Artstu]

For 20mph and over you need 48v.
My 36v Yose 350w hub @17a can do 28mph in highest assist level 5.

I'm sorry but I had to laugh at that

 

[Benjahmin]

If you use a 36v 250w motor and overvolt it to 48V you get approx. 25% more torque and speed. It means getting 48v batteries and chargers and a 48v controller. All doable. With a 15A controller this would give you top whack assist of 720w nominal. A 12Ah 48v battery would be 576Wh, so two giving you a mighty 1152Wh. So you may be able to go to smaller batteries, say 10Ah, and still get 960Wh from two. Assuming 10-20Wh/mile usage (assume higher figure would ba after a long shift) gives you a range of between 96 and 48 miles. How far was your commute?

 

[Julie]

thanks, that's interesting, my commute is about 28 miles each way, so 56 round trip.

 

[Trevormonty]

I think you are asking to much of this style of bike. The handling, braking and tyres aren't really suitable for sustained speeds over 20mph, plus upright position is not very aerodynamic.

A hybrid or hardtail MTB might be better option.

 

[Julie]

Thanks, it does have hydraulic disc brakes and tyres are easily changed. I understand the upright position is not very aerodynamic, but that’s the appeal to me, it’s comfortable.

My Mother’s Freego Wren has a similar upright riding position and seems to hit 17mph ok with its restricted motor, if I was happy not to exceed 20mph do you think the low step bike would be ok?