Help! Would like have a professional consultant please

[ProMoe]

I have bought a used eBike and it's serving me well but I feel like it can go faster than it is right now..
I measured the battery at full charge and it reads 54V.. I took the controller off and those are the specifications printed on it:
Rated voltage: 48V
Maximum current: 10A
Low voltage protection: 42V
Throttle adjustment voltage: 1.2v-4.4v
Product number: LSW905-11 X2007000128
Ex-factory date 07-2020

The imprints on the Bike are "ACTIVE 48V 15A 2018".. I'm no savvy on the eBike matter but when it reads 2020 on controller and 2018 on the Bike it means the controller is changed and from my assumptions I think those readings are high and it should drive more than 25 km/h.. because this is the max speed with full battery.

I also know it is changed because there tape around some wires clearly it has been done by something, I included some pictures down below.

I can solder and I can replace chips if needed; can I get a better speeds with this current controller?

If more info is needed I'm more than happy to provide.

 

[StuartsProjects]

Where are you located ?

 

[ProMoe]

Where are you located ?

Palestine, West Bank

 

[portals]

A good 48V 13S battery should read 54.6V after full charge so you're almost there, I would assume the battery is still in reasonable condition, hope you are using the charging power adaptor that came with it though and not a 3rd party.

The issue you might have is the controller in pic is 10A continuous and 20 peak, a 17A/35A peak or 20A/40A should give more grunt as would upgrading the battery to a 52V?

 

[portals]

Have you checked in the display software that a speed limit hasn't been set? Google how to access settings and what they mean.

GL!

 

[ProMoe]

Have you checked in the display software that a speed limit hasn't been set? Google how to access settings and what they mean.

GL!

Yeah I tinkered wit that a bit and I found out that it's locked for 40 km/h.. lol.. and I don't even get close to 30 km/h

 

[ProMoe]

A good 48V 13S battery should read 54.6V after full charge so you're almost there, I would assume the battery is still in reasonable condition, hope you are using the charging power adaptor that came with it though and not a 3rd party.

The issue you might have is the controller in pic is 10A continuous and 20 peak, a 17A/35A peak or 20A/40A should give more grunt as would upgrading the battery to a 52V?

So you think I should get a new controller AND a new battery? Why would I upgrade to a 52V battery since mine goes up to 52V

 

[portals]

You battery pack is 48V however most batteries in this world when fully charged are actually at a higher voltage, for instance your 12V car battery will show normally 14+V when fully charged.

Similarly:
A 48V pack fully charges at 54.6V
A 52V pack full charges at 58.8V

If you're not getting the above then either it's cheap cells or worn/damaged cells.

P=VI
Therefore if you increase V from 48V -> 52V at say 10A continuous you're getting 520W as opposed to 480W of power, enough for few more miles per hr but difference will not be earth shattering.

The 52V named batteries are also not cheap, I paid £500 for my LG 14S5P Hailong

 

[portals]

Regarding the controller, what kind of motor do you have, is it a rear hub, what is it rated at in Watts?

 

[ProMoe]

Thank you so much for making me understand battery voltages better!

About the motor it's a rear one.. but how many watts in provides I really don't know I looked everywhere it does not say.. here's a picture of it:

 

[portals]

It's kinda hard to tell from the photo but it's probably a 250W motor or was advertised as that when new.

I doubt a new controller or higher voltage battery will make much difference top speed wise, I would just enjoy the ebike for what it is and look at buying a more powerful hub/controller/battery further down the road?

 

[ProMoe]

I truly appreciate your help.

I might do that, but I think it’ll be too expensive for me IDK.. I might enjoy it while I look for a better used or new eBike.

I have one last favor to ask, can you link me on controller/hub/battery you think are compatible to my bike and recommend? Preferably AliExpress..

thabks

 

[portals]

You would need to post some clear in focus pics of you bike frame from various angles especially around rear hub and dropouts, it's impossible to tell from the pics above what your frame actually looks like.

Also, what is your main use case, fun, commute to work, what range etc? These will impact what might suit you best

 

[Bikes4two]

.......for instance your 12V car battery will show normally 14+V when fully charged.

• Er, not wishing to pick holes but just in case someone thinks their car battery is not charging properly, a 12v lead acid car battery when fully charge is around 12.9v
• The alternator when charging puts out around 14.5v and if you measure the battery voltage just after a 'run', it will show this voltage which is merely what is known as a surface charge.
• To get a true car battery voltage, you need to let the battery 'rest' for a while (maybe an hour?) before measuring.
• 

 

[portals]

Yes, you are of course correct re car batteries, I was just trying to illustrate the point that batteries fully charged output a little higher voltage than they are specced as.

 

[matthewslack]

With 'constantly charged' systems like a car's battery, the system voltage is the 'fully charged whilst under charge' voltage of 14 plus a few tenths volts, just to complexify further!

 

[Deus]

• Er, not wishing to pick holes but just in case someone thinks their car battery is not charging properly, a 12v lead acid car battery when fully charge is around 12.9v
• The alternator when charging puts out around 14.5v and if you measure the battery voltage just after a 'run', it will show this voltage which is merely what is known as a surface charge.
• To get a true car battery voltage, you need to let the battery 'rest' for a while (maybe an hour?) before measuring.
• View attachment 51107

Ebike batteries also lose some voltage after been taken off charge

 

[flecc]

With 'constantly charged' systems like a car's battery, the system voltage is the 'fully charged whilst under charge' voltage of 14 plus a few tenths volts, just to complexify further!

And there might even be a further variant with e-cars which also use a 12 volt battery for the usual car systems, in addition to their traction battery.

On my Nissan Leaf that gets charged at the same time as the traction battery is plugged into any charger. But to take care of any heavy 12 volt usage during journeys, to do alternator duty the car has a 12 volt charger fed from the 400 volt traction battery. I've no idea if that is constant, or only operates below a certain voltage to top up.
.