Worn out cover ....can it be replaced?

[loanheadhouse]

My wife has used her wayfayer pro-rider 20" folding pedelec so much that shes worn through the push button cover on the handlebar selector - see picture
[ she's done about 15,000 miles on it - only issues have been upgrade to 53 tooth front as factory gearing was crazy low & battery has been replaced with a 16Ah unit ] . Can anyone supply or point me in direction of a solution to this problem as water is going to get in there eventually. Thanks in advance for your reply

 

[saneagle]

My wife has used her wayfayer pro-rider 20" folding pedelec so much that shes worn through the push button cover on the handlebar selector - see picture
[ she's done about 15,000 miles on it - only issues have been upgrade to 53 tooth front as factory gearing was crazy low & battery has been replaced with a 16Ah unit ] . Can anyone supply or point me in direction of a solution to this problem as water is going to get in there eventually. Thanks in advance for your reply

I've not seen exactly that one before, but there are others that work the same. Can you show the connector and confirm whether it's 24v or 36v.

 

[loanheadhouse]

Its 36V . bike isn't with me just now; will add connector pic tomorrow. thanks

 

[matthewslack]

I would apply a heavy duty transparent adhesive tape over the existing panel. Perhaps a couple of localised small pieces over the buttons, and an all over cover on top.

There is a 3M product that I used to seal between the solar panels on my solar trailer, which survives about 3,000 miles of bouncing around before cracking. 50mm wide, but no product number printed on it, sadly. Mine came from 'middle of Lidl' about 3 years ago.



Not parcel tape, much thicker.

 

[guerney]

I had great difficulty removing some very thick transparent, strong and extremely sticky Gorilla tape, which a customer of mine had stuck over a bluetooth printer battery compartment. Seriously impressed with how well it stuck and it's strength, but I don't know which particular Gorilla tape it was. Might be worth a go if you can find it.

You can buy A4/A5/A6 sheets of strong transparent sticky sheet on ebay. Pretty sticky in my experience, and thick.

Alternatively, you can make a cover/rain hat - you'll need thick plastic transparent sheet (strong bag), gaffa tape to hold it in place, while you make a surround using self-amalagamating rubber tape.

Gaffa tape to hold in place:





Edged:

 

[saneagle]

I had great difficulty removing some very thick transparent, strong and extremely sticky Gorilla tape, which a customer of mine had stuck over a bluetooth printer battery compartment. Seriously impressed with how well it stuck and it's strength, but I don't know which particular Gorilla tape it was. Might be worth a go if you can find it.

You can buy A4/A5/A6 sheets of strong transparent sticky sheet on ebay. Pretty sticky in my experience, and thick.

Alternatively, you can make a cover/rain hat - you'll need thick plastic transparent sheet (strong bag), gaffa tape to hold it in place, while you make a surround using self-amalagamating rubber tape.

Gaffa tape to hold in place:


View attachment 60130


Edged:

View attachment 60131

The actual LED control panel is probably going to be cheaper than a roll of Gorilla tape, once we identify which one he needs from the connector.

 

[guerney]

The actual LED control panel is probably going to be cheaper than a roll of Gorilla tape, once we identify which one he needs from the connector.

Of course a mega cheap replacement would be the ideal solution. Gorilla tape is crazy overpriced. Strong sticky transparent sheet only costs a couple of pounds on ebay, the OP may already have some sort of sticky tape, self-amalgamating rubber tape and a strong plastic bag to make a cover.

 

[loanheadhouse]

Thanks to the various ideas to repair. I'm trying to avoid going down that route if i can help it due to [ shall we say] wife expectations[!] - i'd rather replace if i can't get the original case or cover. See attached pictures for both the controller and the connector. I'm 95% certain i've got the correct connector there but as when we got the bike i siliconed up the cables as they enter the controller box the usual pull to ID the right cable isnt possible. so i'm only 95% certain. Nb The bike currently has a seperate, simple GPS speed / distance unit - if something is available which brings the functionality of both units together then i'd be interested in that too. Thanks in advance for your help

 

[saneagle]

Thanks to the various ideas to repair. I'm trying to avoid going down that route if i can help it due to [ shall we say] wife expectations[!] - i'd rather replace if i can't get the original case or cover. See attached pictures for both the controller and the connector. I'm 95% certain i've got the correct connector there but as when we got the bike i siliconed up the cables as they enter the controller box the usual pull to ID the right cable isnt possible. so i'm only 95% certain. Nb The bike currently has a seperate, simple GPS speed / distance unit - if something is available which brings the functionality of both units together then i'd be interested in that too. Thanks in advance for your help

That's the very worst case you have there with that connector. Firstly, you won't find a replacement with that connector except as an OEM spare part from the manufacturer.

You can use one of the generic £10 ones, but the question is which one because there are two types. There are some tests you can do to find out which type if you have a meter.

Either way, you'd have to cut off the connectors and solder the wires together. Are you happy with that or do you need a different solution?

 

[loanheadhouse]

Well i could do that but as an alternative how about a complete replacement of controller and paired display ? To explain further, we have two of these pedelecs - i only use my one ocassionally when we cycle together. So what i would propose to do is cannabilise my bike to keep hers going with the same part / controls as she is used to [ she prefers not to change things if possible] and then fit new parts to my one [ which has added benefit of any mess up will be on my bike, not hers....! and i can get a better display too] so what would you suggest that will replace current controller / led display?

 

[saneagle]

Well i could do that but as an alternative how about a complete replacement of controller and paired display ? To explain further, we have two of these pedelecs - i only use my one ocassionally when we cycle together. So what i would propose to do is cannabilise my bike to keep hers going with the same part / controls as she is used to [ she prefers not to change things if possible] and then fit new parts to my one [ which has added benefit of any mess up will be on my bike, not hers....! and i can get a better display too] so what would you suggest that will replace current controller / led display?

That's what I'd do if you're up to it. I'd get the controller, LCD, PAS, throttle, speed sensor and brake levers as a complete set from Topbikekit. That would leave you just the motor hall wires and maybe the battery wires to solder.

Once you've done one bike, you'll want to do the other. It'll be so much better.

 

[loanheadhouse]

Okay, thanks for that. One last question as i have no previous knowledge of pedelec electrics [ but am proficient enough on motorcycles and cars] - as our bikes are old enough to have 'grandfather rights' legal twist grip only motor activation which i am keen to keep . When i was suggesting new controller/display i presumed that the new controller would take existing feeds now realise 'connector issues' might be a nightmare with that plan SO if i do replace everything how can i be sure i still have twistgrip motor activation [ ie without pedaling]? any specific kit ie part number suggestion?

 

[saneagle]

Okay, thanks for that. One last question as i have no previous knowledge of pedelec electrics [ but am proficient enough on motorcycles and cars] - as our bikes are old enough to have 'grandfather rights' legal twist grip only motor activation which i am keen to keep . When i was suggesting new controller/display i presumed that the new controller would take existing feeds now realise 'connector issues' might be a nightmare with that plan SO if i do replace everything how can i be sure i still have twistgrip motor activation [ ie without pedaling]? any specific kit ie part number suggestion?

Changing the controller does not change the legal status of the bike. Twist and go is not legal now. The grandfather rights thing is dodgy, but I don't personally believe that the police are too interested in whether you have a throttle or not anyway. With a KT controller, you can set it up to have a legal throttle that only gives power when you pedal or it can work twist and go if you want it the same as it is at the moment. It takes about 10 seconds to change between the two modes.

Your existing throttle and PAS will work with a KT controller, but you'll probably have to do something with connectors. The controller sits where nobody can see it, and nobody would know that you changed it, and even if they did, it has no bearing on the bike's legal status.

 

[thelarkbox]

fwiw if like the kt controller i bought, the throttle will work the way you want out of the box but the pas will need enabling - and if like me you find the Chenglish of the pas selection aspect of the manual a challenge.. just cycle through the handful of options until one works correctly.. ( not that many..)

 

[loanheadhouse]

Thanks for all replies to my question. I'll now get on and get it sorted.