Woosh Santana CDL

[flapajack]

Bosch beg to differ, this is a lift from the Speed (old-shape battery) instructions:



Switching Start-assistance On/Off
The start-assistance function can be used for additional sup- port on the first meters when starting is difficult (e. g., at a traffic light or when starting uphill).
 The start-assistance function may only be used when starting (driving off) the eBike. Danger of injury when the wheels of the eBike do not have ground contact while using the start-assistance function.
To activate the start-assistance function, press and hold the “WALK” button 14 on the operating unit. The eBike’s drive is activated. The start-assistance function is switched off as soon as any of the following incidents occur:
– Yourelease“WALK”button14, – YoupressanotherbuttononthedriveHMI, – ThewheelsoftheeBikeareblocked(e.g.,throughbraking
or running against an obstruction), – Yourspeedexceeds18km/h.

oh that is interesting. have never used it but I do have that "walk" button although to operate it require one hand on the HMI unit and therefore off the handlebar whilst at the same time trying to set off uphill or in a high gear. all siunds very dodgy to me. has anyone used this functionality before?

 

[derf]

apologies all if this (reporting back on experience using bike) gets a bit obsessive - its the end of a week of 70 miles commuting on it (and a quick dash to cafe a moment ago) and i guess in part because it is really growing on me. what i like most is the top speed (if you do a kind of low resistance gym spinnning class a constant 19 to 24 mph on teh level is entirely maintainable), the adequate assistance (if one sits back in top gear the motor has enough oomph to - with minimal rotation just to keep it active - trundle up fairly serious hills with a 90kg bloke on it), the ergonomics of a loop frame and sit upright position and the (perhaps flawed) feeling that teh components are all cheap but cheerful (i..e the brakes, wheels and gears feel as if it is durable).

What i dont like - and hoped some of you may have a suggestion for?) is that the rear luggage rack does not have enough space around the edges to take panneir style shopping baskets or panniers with thick plastic hooks? is there a fix? Also, im fitting a hub dynamo, aroudn where i live being seen all teh time is critical to avoid a car smashing into one). all and all, so far as i say a good experience with the santana.

 

[RobF]

You can get one piece panniers, linked by a piece of fabric which will sit over the battery, some have a third top compartment as well.

Means you always have to deploy the full set, but they do go some way to hiding the battery - if that's important to you.

As regards lights, dynamos are good because the lights are always there and ready to use.

On t'other hand, quality usb rechargeable lights are very good these days, so that's the route I would take.

 

[derf]

many thanks for the advice Rob, i was hoping there'd be an alternative to always deploying full panniers, but at leats it i sa fix. I find the "fit it and forget it" part of a dynohub just takes so much hassle out of cycling.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Dynamos/dynohubs don't make sense on an electric bike. Why would you want to use electricity from a battery to drive a motor that drives a dynamo to make electricity for lights when you can take the electricity directly from the battery for the lights?

These lights run direct from the battery and are as bright as you'll ever need for less than a fiver. All you need is a switch and some wire:

http://www.banggood.com/Motorcycle-Bicycle-Assist-Lamp-LED-Headlights-Modification-Spotlight-p-919876.html

 

[mountainsport]

And not forgetting the mounting clamp which makes it three things needed

MS.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It has a bracket, which you smash nearly flat with a hammer and sick a bolt through your fork crown, so you're right that you need another item, but it's a bolt, not the bracket.

 

[derf]

And not forgetting the mounting clamp which makes it three things needed

MS.

and having a chat with Andy from Woosh as to whether fiddling with their electrics is kosher, which makes it four things needed...just teasing. In the real world (dark, relentless, wet british winters that is) its good to have lights that will always be there for one (even when all the batteries on the bike are flat) and ive found that hub dynamos involve negligible drive - however we all have different cycling realities, thanks for the advice

 

[derf]

sorry "negligible friction" that is

 

[mountainsport]

Reviewer: HittheroadJ

Purchased From: Wooshbikes, Southend on Sea, Hatti

Purchase Price: £799

Time Owned: 3 weeks

Local Terrain: Moderate Hills

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Strengths:
Sturdy. allows weight over 100kgs, handy with lots of shopping.
Powerful Crank motor.
Good in hills.
Feels like a "normal" bike.
Customer care (when an error occurs).
Battery actually lasts over 40 Miles
Quiet in normal use.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Weaknesses:
Shifting gears is slightly awkward. Though you do get used to it.
Powerful engine+crank can damage chain etc. if gears not shifted properly (pull brake while switching gear, then let go).
The short delay when using the throttle is a bit awkward.
The supplied saddle keeps loosening itself (cheap to replace).
Will need to replace break pads fairly frequently.
Personally, my cadence in 7th gear is just over 15 mph on the straight.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Summary:
The first one I was sent developed a severe error within a couple of miles of light use (engine burnt out). However unpleasant this was: errors can be made and woosh dealt with it in an examplary way (1. Apologised. 2. Sent for collection ASAP. 3. Offered money back. 4. asked to describe circumstances so they could relay it top the supplier.). I declined money-back and awaited the bike with replaced engine. Since it arrived my eBiking days have taken a leap forward.

I had an iZip for over 4 years and I loved it, but the reduced weight and increased range of the Santana CDL (I have the 15 Ah version, indeed) have really made a difference.

On the izip I could take trips up to 10 miles with one battery, or up to 20 miles with two batteries, but that was it, and driving with two batteries means that if you did run out of juice, you had to really exert yourself to get home. I tended to limit my range to what was attainable and not take too many risks.

With the Santana CDL I have made several 40 miles+ trips and it ran out of juice just before I got home, but I had taken steep ascends and climbed to over 400 meters. Although it ran out of juice on the last half mile, getting home was OK, because the bike is not as heavy as some eBikes.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Overall Rating (out of 10) : 8 out of 10
Overall, very pleased. Can easily recommend.

The only feature that the iZip had that was better was the throttle. It responded immediately and while riding one could manually give full throttle allowing it to go 18 mph which was just slightly better cadence-wise.
I will keep one iZip for shopping and going to riskier parts of town (got vandalized at the trainstation once, would not want that to happen to my Santana CDL).

On longer distances the iZip is no match for the Santana. The comfort, the constant speed of about 15 mph, all adds up to much nicer experience.

10 out of 10 to you for putting in so much effort and carrying across to us this valuable information. WELL DONE!

MS.

 

[mountainsport]

It has a bracket, which you smash nearly flat with a hammer and sick a bolt through your fork crown, so you're right that you need another item, but it's a bolt, not the bracket.

Sorry Dave I meant a clamping 'BOLT' bracket. Can I please have the front reflector then?

MS.

 

[John F]

Dynamos/dynohubs don't make sense on an electric bike. Why would you want to use electricity from a battery to drive a motor that drives a dynamo to make electricity for lights when you can take the electricity directly from the battery for the lights?

These lights run direct from the battery and are as bright as you'll ever need for less than a fiver. All you need is a switch and some wire:

http://www.banggood.com/Motorcycle-Bicycle-Assist-Lamp-LED-Headlights-Modification-Spotlight-p-919876.html

Fancy one of these lights. What's the difference between the 2 types? Suggestions also please on purchasing the wiring, switch and installation. Cheers.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

One of them gives a very even spread-out beam, the other gives a slightly longer beam. There's not a lot of difference. They're both good.

Wiring is simple. You run two wires from your battery to the two wires on the light, and put a switch on one of them.

The DC/DC converter is stuffed inside the back of the light. It's a good idea to seal the hole at the back with silicone sealant if you ride in the wet.

 

[John F]

One of them gives a very even spread-out beam, the other gives a slightly longer beam. There's not a lot of difference. They're both good.

Wiring is simple. You run two wires from your battery to the two wires on the light, and put a switch on one of them.

The DC/DC converter is stuffed inside the back of the light. It's a good idea to seal the hole at the back with silicone sealant if you ride in the wet.

excellent thanks

 

[cucola]

About the first thing I did was to alter the King Meter cut off speed from 25 to 30 kph to get rid off that annoying cutting out/in at 14 mph.

Can anyone point me to the instructions for increasing the top cut-off spped?

 

[JohnCade]

Can anyone point me to the instructions for increasing the top cut-off spped?

Hold up and down arrows at the same time to get into the settings. You’ll find the speed setting there.