Woosh kit on a btwin tilt900

[varnishmike]

Hello everyone, long time browser, first time poster.

I’ve been looking to electrify my little folding BTwin Tilt900. After a browse in here I settled for a kit from woosh.
After a few emails with Andy and a phone call to hand over my credit card details I had the kit. Then came this morning where I did the fitting.
Problem 1: I don’t know how to use a crank puller properly. Five minutes later all the threads are stripped from my crank and I have to go to a local bike shop sheepishly. They can’t get it off either now so I put the magnet disc on the left side instead. I’ll come to that later.
problem 2: my cassette tool doesn’t fit over a 12mm axle. Sigh. Still it got the old cassette off and I used needle nose pliers to tighten it enough on the new wheel. Thanks poster on here who suggested that hack.
the rest of it went really smoothly. The battery and motor controller was mounted on a rear pannier rack which needed a couple of holes drilling into it. Some m5 bolts and it’s golden.
Now onto the pas issue. Because I moved the magnet disc to the left the wheel only kicks in when pedalling backwards. Not ideal. I tried changing the pas direction in the display settings but couldn’t get in to the personal settings page (km5s display). Then I had a brainwave: what if I move the sensor to the chainstay and have it upside down? Some modification to the unneeded metal bb mount plate and it’s affixed and when I pedal it goes vroom.
it’s been a bit of a day getting it all done but now it’s all together it’s a great little kit. Thanks to Andy the rest at Woosh.
one last question for the forum: does anyone know where to get dust caps for the julet connectors? I’m only using one of the brake levers so I have a spare connector left naked.

 

[Az.]

I think you should keep PAS as it is. You should be still able to activate motor with pedaling backwards. It is definitely going to be a head turner.

...or you can buy PAS like this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMZhomeone-Assistant-Performance-Waterproof-connector/dp/B0D1K7Q6D9/ref=sr_1_16_sspa?crid=16UU7FH8GHPRQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.B2sbBw9wksawZAdXlUWrLYDJX8kDZfVrAwJrgOCH3elivjXzrDiJLjP0nl8T7Ea3zv87JuxqKoB2aXBPXBTPTLv4LGhl3guDe6NNOvp2n4XYxWzme0X_rgQcPNWkegcsCBnzca-QJeGKgjdhEw_PRDfoDhO18FPYO0KAMJrieexOg9SsJD8L0V4-zaM6JTtpi_eGObmiWGG4YzJ7wYLpl38LvPU8_FDwsF0x_5jc8tiAaU9Dsf_T8UpQqNodRDP3_jppUQKQtOP2JpefHQlQMsbkUOekfDyj_D1DXMAiwTU.lroM_z7Sa72XxH7_oMmOmQcWtqq9J5-prFZVZ-vfcws&dib_tag=se&keywords=pas%2Bbike&qid=1718464444&sprefix=pas%2Bbike%2Caps%2C110&sr=8-16-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1

No need to remove crank.

Welcome

 

[Woosh]

The PAS is dual Hall. Best get in touch with Andy, email support@wooshbikes.co.uk . He will help you solve it.

 

[varnishmike]

It’s working now I relocated it to the chain stay. It’s a good little kit and would have been much easier had I used the crank puller correctly.

 

[Waspy]

First of all you need to watch Youtube on how to use a crank puller correctly, I recommend RJ The Bike Guy.

RJ The Bike Guy

I also stripped threads with a very cheap crank puller so I invested in a good quality one from Park Tool (15 quid) and I've had no trouble since.

Park Tool CCP-22

I bought some of these dust caps from eBay, I forget the size, you will need to measure your connector:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221802202012

 

[guerney]

question for the forum: does anyone know where to get dust caps for the julet connectors? I’m only using one of the brake levers so I have a spare connector left naked.

To protect the unused throttle connector of my kit, I simply wrapped some self-amalgamating rubber tape over and around. The open end was oriented vertically up, so that hat does the job, otherwise I would have used 4:1 self-adhesive marine heat shrink for more effective waterproofing.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amalgamating-rubber-tape-black-3m-x-25mm/2115v

 

[Bikes4two]

A blob of mastic on the plug end should work.

In a moment of absent mindedness some years ago I stripped the crank extraction threads too (so embarrassing). For a number of years I fashioned and used a small 3-legged puller to get the crank off until I found a matching replacement on ebay. And of course, careful use of an angle grinder might get it off but clearances are tight to avoid damaging the frame.

Your workaround seems good though .

 

[varnishmike]

This is how I’ve jerry rigged my pas sensor and the finished beast.

 

[saneagle]

View attachment 58228View attachment 58229
This is how I’ve jerry rigged my pas sensor and the finished beast.

For best handling, you should aim at getting the battery as close as possible to the seatpost. I think yours can be brought closer.

You did remember to make sure that the cable exits the motor downwards? In the photo, yours looks suspiciously high - what we can see of it.

 

[varnishmike]

Unfortunately my dropouts are horizontal so it’s either forward or back for the motor cable. I only ride in the dry so I think it’ll be ok.

edit: thinking a little more, I might switch it around so it’s coming out the rear (ooh matron) and run the motor cable down the rack leg rather than the chainstay. That might at least make a little loop so the water can run off rather than travel across from the front.
if in doubt a good wodge of silicone should keep it dry.

 

[Kcirtapdyob]

What kit did you end up getting? I found your post because I’m looking to do the exact same thing to my Tilt 900

 

[varnishmike]

Hi Patrick,

I spoke with Andy at Woosh and got the 20" rear hub motor hit with the 13AH downtube battery in a custom package. I went for this as I wanted to mount the battery on a rack above the rear wheel. The rack is the official decathlon 20" folding bike rack.

Things to be aware of:

The stock rear wheel actually has around a 133mm OLD so you have to use a bit of elbow grease to tug the drop outs apart to get the motor wheel in. It does go though. Also, as you can tell the rear dropouts on the TILT900 go backwards rather than down so you only have the option of the motor cable coming out forwards or backwards. Mine now comes out from the rear and loops down before being clipped to the strut on the rear rack.

The battery and controller sit on a piece of 9mm ply on the rack. the rack has a handy slot along the middle you can get M5 bolts through though I did have to drill a hole for the third battery mount screw.

Something else to be aware of is that the stock tyres on the TILT900 are 20x1.75 and quite soft. I have since fitted a schwalbe big ben plus 20x2.15 tyre on the back now to better handle the increase in weight from the hub motor and battery. I did remove the rear fender to fit the tyre in. I also recommend getting a spoke key to tighten up the spokes after a few weeks.

Overall i'm very happy with it. My commute to work is only a couple of miles but has a horrible hill on the way in which the motor absolutely crushes. And if need be, by routing the cabling along the brake and gear cable routes, the bike can be folded up for fitting in a car boot. Just don't make a pigs ear of taking the crank off like I did.

Edit: One last thing I forgot about was that how I did it obscured the stock rear light. I've fitted a small light/reflector to the back of the rack to make me all nice and safe.

 

[Kcirtapdyob]

Hi Patrick,

I spoke with Andy at Woosh and got the 20" rear hub motor hit with the 13AH downtube battery in a custom package. I went for this as I wanted to mount the battery on a rack above the rear wheel. The rack is the official decathlon 20" folding bike rack.

Things to be aware of:

The stock rear wheel actually has around a 133mm OLD so you have to use a bit of elbow grease to tug the drop outs apart to get the motor wheel in. It does go though. Also, as you can tell the rear dropouts on the TILT900 go backwards rather than down so you only have the option of the motor cable coming out forwards or backwards. Mine now comes out from the rear and loops down before being clipped to the strut on the rear rack.

The battery and controller sit on a piece of 9mm ply on the rack. the rack has a handy slot along the middle you can get M5 bolts through though I did have to drill a hole for the third battery mount screw.

Something else to be aware of is that the stock tyres on the TILT900 are 20x1.75 and quite soft. I have since fitted a schwalbe big ben plus 20x2.15 tyre on the back now to better handle the increase in weight from the hub motor and battery. I did remove the rear fender to fit the tyre in. I also recommend getting a spoke key to tighten up the spokes after a few weeks.

Overall i'm very happy with it. My commute to work is only a couple of miles but has a horrible hill on the way in which the motor absolutely crushes. And if need be, by routing the cabling along the brake and gear cable routes, the bike can be folded up for fitting in a car boot. Just don't make a pigs ear of taking the crank off like I did.

Edit: One last thing I forgot about was that how I did it obscured the stock rear light. I've fitted a small light/reflector to the back of the rack to make me all nice and safe.

Thanks so much for taking the time to write that out! I'm glad you're happy with it, I'm in a similar boat I often cycle into London and there's one hill in particular that I'm sure is going to make my knees fall off if I don't do something!

I'm going to look further into this but mounting it on the rear pannier certainly seems like the sensible option. Cheers!