Woosh kit on a btwin tilt900

[varnishmike]

Hello everyone, long time browser, first time poster.

I’ve been looking to electrify my little folding BTwin Tilt900. After a browse in here I settled for a kit from woosh.
After a few emails with Andy and a phone call to hand over my credit card details I had the kit. Then came this morning where I did the fitting.
Problem 1: I don’t know how to use a crank puller properly. Five minutes later all the threads are stripped from my crank and I have to go to a local bike shop sheepishly. They can’t get it off either now so I put the magnet disc on the left side instead. I’ll come to that later.
problem 2: my cassette tool doesn’t fit over a 12mm axle. Sigh. Still it got the old cassette off and I used needle nose pliers to tighten it enough on the new wheel. Thanks poster on here who suggested that hack.
the rest of it went really smoothly. The battery and motor controller was mounted on a rear pannier rack which needed a couple of holes drilling into it. Some m5 bolts and it’s golden.
Now onto the pas issue. Because I moved the magnet disc to the left the wheel only kicks in when pedalling backwards. Not ideal. I tried changing the pas direction in the display settings but couldn’t get in to the personal settings page (km5s display). Then I had a brainwave: what if I move the sensor to the chainstay and have it upside down? Some modification to the unneeded metal bb mount plate and it’s affixed and when I pedal it goes vroom.
it’s been a bit of a day getting it all done but now it’s all together it’s a great little kit. Thanks to Andy the rest at Woosh.
one last question for the forum: does anyone know where to get dust caps for the julet connectors? I’m only using one of the brake levers so I have a spare connector left naked.

 

[Az.]

I think you should keep PAS as it is. You should be still able to activate motor with pedaling backwards. It is definitely going to be a head turner.

...or you can buy PAS like this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMZhomeone-Assistant-Performance-Waterproof-connector/dp/B0D1K7Q6D9/ref=sr_1_16_sspa?crid=16UU7FH8GHPRQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.B2sbBw9wksawZAdXlUWrLYDJX8kDZfVrAwJrgOCH3elivjXzrDiJLjP0nl8T7Ea3zv87JuxqKoB2aXBPXBTPTLv4LGhl3guDe6NNOvp2n4XYxWzme0X_rgQcPNWkegcsCBnzca-QJeGKgjdhEw_PRDfoDhO18FPYO0KAMJrieexOg9SsJD8L0V4-zaM6JTtpi_eGObmiWGG4YzJ7wYLpl38LvPU8_FDwsF0x_5jc8tiAaU9Dsf_T8UpQqNodRDP3_jppUQKQtOP2JpefHQlQMsbkUOekfDyj_D1DXMAiwTU.lroM_z7Sa72XxH7_oMmOmQcWtqq9J5-prFZVZ-vfcws&dib_tag=se&keywords=pas%2Bbike&qid=1718464444&sprefix=pas%2Bbike%2Caps%2C110&sr=8-16-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1

No need to remove crank.

Welcome

 

[Woosh]

The PAS is dual Hall. Best get in touch with Andy, email support@wooshbikes.co.uk . He will help you solve it.

 

[varnishmike]

It’s working now I relocated it to the chain stay. It’s a good little kit and would have been much easier had I used the crank puller correctly.

 

[Waspy]

First of all you need to watch Youtube on how to use a crank puller correctly, I recommend RJ The Bike Guy.

RJ The Bike Guy

I also stripped threads with a very cheap crank puller so I invested in a good quality one from Park Tool (15 quid) and I've had no trouble since.

Park Tool CCP-22

I bought some of these dust caps from eBay, I forget the size, you will need to measure your connector:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221802202012

 

[guerney]

question for the forum: does anyone know where to get dust caps for the julet connectors? I’m only using one of the brake levers so I have a spare connector left naked.

To protect the unused throttle connector of my kit, I simply wrapped some self-amalgamating rubber tape over and around. The open end was oriented vertically up, so that hat does the job, otherwise I would have used 4:1 self-adhesive marine heat shrink for more effective waterproofing.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amalgamating-rubber-tape-black-3m-x-25mm/2115v

 

[Bikes4two]

A blob of mastic on the plug end should work.

In a moment of absent mindedness some years ago I stripped the crank extraction threads too (so embarrassing). For a number of years I fashioned and used a small 3-legged puller to get the crank off until I found a matching replacement on ebay. And of course, careful use of an angle grinder might get it off but clearances are tight to avoid damaging the frame.

Your workaround seems good though .

 

[varnishmike]

This is how I’ve jerry rigged my pas sensor and the finished beast.

 

[saneagle]

View attachment 58228View attachment 58229
This is how I’ve jerry rigged my pas sensor and the finished beast.

For best handling, you should aim at getting the battery as close as possible to the seatpost. I think yours can be brought closer.

You did remember to make sure that the cable exits the motor downwards? In the photo, yours looks suspiciously high - what we can see of it.

 

[varnishmike]

Unfortunately my dropouts are horizontal so it’s either forward or back for the motor cable. I only ride in the dry so I think it’ll be ok.

edit: thinking a little more, I might switch it around so it’s coming out the rear (ooh matron) and run the motor cable down the rack leg rather than the chainstay. That might at least make a little loop so the water can run off rather than travel across from the front.
if in doubt a good wodge of silicone should keep it dry.