wow the bike is a stunt jumper where did you think the batt was going to go with the mount you supplied!
you had the pics and sold it anyway wtf!
Help! Woosh bike battery, need help with mounting frog battery, somewhere somehow, safely
- Thread starter Rileyy
- Start date
you had the pics and sold it anyway wtf!
I didn't know which bike she has.
Most customers get in touch with me (kits@wooshbikes.co.uk) before ordering.
The reason we do everything by email is because we need pictures before advising customers.
The first thing I knew about the case was last Thursday, just before I stopped for lunch.
Andy has gone for his lunch break, I covered incoming support cases when he was on his break. Otherwise, I wouldn't have known about the case.
Most customers get in touch with me (kits@wooshbikes.co.uk) before ordering.
The reason we do everything by email is because we need pictures before advising customers.
The first thing I knew about the case was last Thursday, just before I stopped for lunch.
Andy has gone for his lunch break, I covered incoming support cases when he was on his break. Otherwise, I wouldn't have known about the case.
Right. Soo I still need to pick one solution, and it can't be temporary - it will just mean I will loose the money.
Should I buy the back rack? And how to mount the mount so it's most secure?
Should I buy the back rack? And how to mount the mount so it's most secure?
Well that's not true. I've sent emails with like 6 photos of my bike 12 days ago.
Riley, the first time I knew about your problem is when I saw your email last Thursday.
Check your email for tony@wooshbikes.co.uk
The rack that vfr400 mentioned is same or similar to the one I recommended. They are the most economical solution for your bike, regardless which battery you buy because you can't have a battery inside the triangle.
It is as secure as a rack can be expected.
After fitting the rack to the bike, send me some pictures, I will suggest how to fit the battery base to the rack.
I'm not saying You didn't know but someone in the company replied to me, said it's compatible and I exchanged few emails with that person and he replied it is and if I want to order. I replied and said yes if it's compatible for sure and asked a couple of questions, so there was a chance to say something like idk recommending the pannier rack kit or just let me know hey You might want to spend few extra £ and get this rack for Your bike or whatever really.
This mount doesn't look like I can mount it to anything. I'll probably go for the one You;ve sent the link before and so did couple of guys in the forum, It would be still nice to know how to mount it? So if I need to buy any extra things like screws or anything I won't have to order and wait again
This mount doesn't look like I can mount it to anything. I'll probably go for the one You;ve sent the link before and so did couple of guys in the forum, It would be still nice to know how to mount it? So if I need to buy any extra things like screws or anything I won't have to order and wait again
D
Deleted member 33385
Guest
(BBS01b) I had a right struggle mounting my battery - the only place I could put it was the pannier (I needed my folding bike to fold), but that was too small (by a couple of cms) - so I drilled some holes into a piece of pallet wood and nut and bolted it through with washers and metal plates (the type you use to join chipboard with, the flat ones with four pre-drilled holes, about 60mm long and about 20mm wide. They're underneath the plank, gripping the pannier rack), like this:
The mount provided, looks as though you could secure it to a plank of wood on a front or rear pannier, just make sure you measure the pannier carefully - you want it to fit your bike, and looking at your seatpost area... there's not a lot of room - you'll have to take off the rear reflector and/or light. The six holes in the plastic part of the mount: if it were me, I'd consider drilling three holes into two narrow but thickish (but not so thick that they touch the underside of the battery, when the battery is attached to the mount) lengths of wood or strong plastic or nylon, and then add washers on top of that wood or strong plastic, before putting the bolts through that mount - that'd spare the mount plastic... but it might not be necessary, if the mount is made from strong plastic, which it might not be. Then underneath the plank: the bolts would go through the wood, past the pannier rungs, then the metal plates (which would cling to parts of the pannier rack rungs, after you tighten the nuts underneath), then washer (these help get your nuts onto bolts extremely tight and secure), then a nut (or wingnut, if there is room underneath, for convenience).
There may be more room on your bike, for a front pannier?
A quick trip to the hardware shop (Covid concerns permitting), is required - or a spot of ebay shopping for (hopefully cheap) bolts, buts, washers and plates of the right size. They tend to be cheaper at hardware shops and Poundland, but ebay is Covid-free - they're giving away free Covid in all real shops... wear a KN95 mask, at the very least! And breathe shop Covid air through that KN95 for ten minutes max! ebay is safer.
A piece of plank of wood is practically free... some nuts, bolts and washers will only cost a couple of pounds. Pallet wood never rots, or it rots extremely slowly - that's it's big plus.
Once it's mounted on a plank on a pannier, you could restrict battery movement on the mount, by attaching more wood either side - drill and screw those on if necessary. Or screw the mount onto a 45 degree cut wood wedge, then drill and secure that through the plank - I'd probably opt to keep it in place with wood pieces at front and back, unless you have to move it forwards or backwards to unlock it, or does the battery lift off? If it needs to go forwards or back to after unlocking, just pack it against wood supports, with sponge? And when you need to unlock and remove the battery, remove the sponge? I don't know.
Basically - it's a mechano puzzle. You can't make too many horribly expensive mistakes with pallet wood, washers, nuts, bolts and small metal plates. Just make something sturdy, that you feel confident using. Adjust and change your design as needed. Or throw away the wood plank and start fresh. One way or another - I believe it's a fixable problem.
There's no movement at all with my battery and mount type. Secures fast horizontally or vertically. I had no idea frog batteries jumped about so much! I shouldn't be surprised - they are named after frogs. And they croak faster than larger batteries. Here's my battery - perhaps there's an option to swap yours for something like this? I think it's much more secure for horizontal mounting on a pannier:
If you don't mind my saying: That frame is far too large for you! There's no shame in using a child/teenager-sized bike. They're lighter anyway: more speed and range with a Bafang BBS01b (if it fits)... plus they're cheap secondhand.
Woosh might have more suggestions.
The mount provided, looks as though you could secure it to a plank of wood on a front or rear pannier, just make sure you measure the pannier carefully - you want it to fit your bike, and looking at your seatpost area... there's not a lot of room - you'll have to take off the rear reflector and/or light. The six holes in the plastic part of the mount: if it were me, I'd consider drilling three holes into two narrow but thickish (but not so thick that they touch the underside of the battery, when the battery is attached to the mount) lengths of wood or strong plastic or nylon, and then add washers on top of that wood or strong plastic, before putting the bolts through that mount - that'd spare the mount plastic... but it might not be necessary, if the mount is made from strong plastic, which it might not be. Then underneath the plank: the bolts would go through the wood, past the pannier rungs, then the metal plates (which would cling to parts of the pannier rack rungs, after you tighten the nuts underneath), then washer (these help get your nuts onto bolts extremely tight and secure), then a nut (or wingnut, if there is room underneath, for convenience).
There may be more room on your bike, for a front pannier?
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A quick trip to the hardware shop (Covid concerns permitting), is required - or a spot of ebay shopping for (hopefully cheap) bolts, buts, washers and plates of the right size. They tend to be cheaper at hardware shops and Poundland, but ebay is Covid-free - they're giving away free Covid in all real shops... wear a KN95 mask, at the very least! And breathe shop Covid air through that KN95 for ten minutes max! ebay is safer.
A piece of plank of wood is practically free... some nuts, bolts and washers will only cost a couple of pounds. Pallet wood never rots, or it rots extremely slowly - that's it's big plus.
Once it's mounted on a plank on a pannier, you could restrict battery movement on the mount, by attaching more wood either side - drill and screw those on if necessary. Or screw the mount onto a 45 degree cut wood wedge, then drill and secure that through the plank - I'd probably opt to keep it in place with wood pieces at front and back, unless you have to move it forwards or backwards to unlock it, or does the battery lift off? If it needs to go forwards or back to after unlocking, just pack it against wood supports, with sponge? And when you need to unlock and remove the battery, remove the sponge? I don't know.
Basically - it's a mechano puzzle. You can't make too many horribly expensive mistakes with pallet wood, washers, nuts, bolts and small metal plates. Just make something sturdy, that you feel confident using. Adjust and change your design as needed. Or throw away the wood plank and start fresh. One way or another - I believe it's a fixable problem.
There's no movement at all with my battery and mount type. Secures fast horizontally or vertically. I had no idea frog batteries jumped about so much! I shouldn't be surprised - they are named after frogs. And they croak faster than larger batteries. Here's my battery - perhaps there's an option to swap yours for something like this? I think it's much more secure for horizontal mounting on a pannier:
If you don't mind my saying: That frame is far too large for you! There's no shame in using a child/teenager-sized bike. They're lighter anyway: more speed and range with a Bafang BBS01b (if it fits)... plus they're cheap secondhand.
Woosh might have more suggestions.
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The rack kit comes with all the bolts and nuts.
You don't need to buy anything else to fit it.
You can take your bike and rack to Peter Brunt in Manchester, he'll help you out.
If you want to do this yourself, after you've fitted the rack, you can flatten out the battery base's round metal bracket - those wings that look like ears, drill two 7mm holes in the aluminium platform and same to the aluminium strip I sent you last Saturday, using the strip to protect the rack's platform.
Bolt the bracket to the platform with two M6 x 20mm with nylon insert locknuts. I can give you them.
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The battery has a rear red light built-in. I'll be useful for riding in the dark.
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Wow
No blame here for Whoosh. People buy E-Bike conversion kits for DIY installation, with no technical capabilities. They are not pure "paint-by-numbers", so when a technical hitch arises, some head scratching is required.
You need to use blue locktite on any mounting nuts and bolts (they are not screws). Wrap two velcro straps tight around the mounted battery.
At the end of the day, a jump bike is not a suitable candidate to start with, and even at 5' 1", there are basic £50 MTB's available 2nd hand which would have be been better.
No blame here for Whoosh. People buy E-Bike conversion kits for DIY installation, with no technical capabilities. They are not pure "paint-by-numbers", so when a technical hitch arises, some head scratching is required.
You need to use blue locktite on any mounting nuts and bolts (they are not screws). Wrap two velcro straps tight around the mounted battery.
At the end of the day, a jump bike is not a suitable candidate to start with, and even at 5' 1", there are basic £50 MTB's available 2nd hand which would have be been better.
They emailed me and they said when I've got the rack mounted they will get it done for me by some guy in Manchestr. And they were supposed to exchange the battery fot the longer type one and get it mounted for me by this guy in manchester, just got an email that one of them will call me to assis me whith that battery and one of them just called me and asked me to pay extra 100£... And said he cant to anything without thay money. Terrible, I can't believe they're trying to charge me for more money, and say that cant give it for free, but theyre taking the old battery? And I'm loosing money for train tickets already and bought thw pannier rack thwy suggested.... I said I won't pay that, I seriously have no idea what is wrong with them to ask me for more money
They didn't said anything about paying extra in the emails, but I've checked on their website and frog battery is for 299 and the down tube batteries are fron 299 to 399. I didnt ask for a better battery. Just so this one to be replaced.
Andy tried to help you out as much as he can.
The price of the 13AH HL battery is the same, in HL case or in small frog case.
The 15AH battery costs £50 more than the 13AH and the 17.5AH costs £100 more than the 13AH.
If you return the battery and charger to us, we will refund you the cost of the battery and charger (£299) - and you can buy your battery and charger from wherever you want. The guarantee on your kit remains same.
If you want a bigger capacity battery, you need to pay for the difference.
For your 22 miles commute, the 17.5AH battery is best.
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Of course that Manchester independent dealer has to charge, he has no charity income.
Fundamentally you have a completely unsuitable bike for conversion, something you should haved investigated at the outset. As Soundwave posted, it's a jump bike.
There used to be a stunt team called Team Hybrid performing on those bikes with kit motors and they carried the batteries in small back packs. The connection was by a trailing lead with a push together connector and that worked fine. For you with that unsuitable bike it's either that or a rack, with you doing all the fitting and modification or you paying someone else to do it for you. That is the real world situation, unless you can find a mechanically minded friend to put themselves out for you.
.
I never wanted a bigger capacity and said I can't afford that.
Seems like You guys don't communicate with each other well in the company.
You administrator/manager called me 20 minutes ago and said You've got one battery(13AH) for me that's the same price and will send it me on Tuesday.
So when I've get pannier rack You've recommended for me to order and You'll get that person in manchester to mount it the problem is solved, even though I'm wasting my time and money for train & bus commute.
Woosh said that when the pannier rack is mounted they will pay someone in manchester to mount it for me, and they found a last 13ah battery and it will be sent to me and exchange for that battery, so hopefully problem will be solved.
I'm pleased to learn that, it's top class service from Woosh and far beyond what you'd get from most kit suppliers who usually just leave customers to sort any problems.
Hopefully you'll soon be riding with a smile on your face.
.
D
Deleted member 33385
Guest
You certainly seem to have bagged a very decent seller! I still prefer my pallet plank suggestion.
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