Help! Wobbly pedal spindle

mikeconnect

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Jul 3, 2020
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Warrington , Cheshire
I've got a wobbly spindle on a giant suede. It's not the crank bolts as they seemed tight .any ideas what I can do plz?
I'm trying to remove the crank arms but after removing the bolts they won't budge. Are they threaded on to the spindle on this model ? Bear with my questions I'm inexperienced
Thanks in advance
 

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soundwave

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May 23, 2015
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sjpt

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Use a crank extractor as soundwave says. Be very careful to have the inner pusher fully unscrewed before you thread the device onto the crank arms, and then to thread it on to the arms as far as you can. Then you can tighten the inner and do the actual extraction. If the extractor is not threaded deeply into the crank arms you can easily strip the thread.
 

mikeconnect

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 3, 2020
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Warrington , Cheshire
Use a crank extractor as soundwave says. Be very careful to have the inner pusher fully unscrewed before you thread the device onto the crank arms, and then to thread it on to the arms as far as you can. Then you can tighten the inner and do the actual extraction. If the extractor is not threaded deeply into the crank arms you can easily strip the thread.
Thanks
 

soundwave

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May 23, 2015
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why do you want to remove the crank arm if it is the pedal axle that is the problem you will be better of just getting some more cheap pedals as not really serviceable as imo the bearings are shot.
 

mikeconnect

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Jul 3, 2020
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Warrington , Cheshire
Becsuse I've no experience of this stuff so I thought I might find a solution after removing the pedal cranks. So does that mean I can't buy a spindle only . Anyway if I get new pedals I'd have to remove crank arms
 

mike killay

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Feb 17, 2011
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Becsuse I've no experience of this stuff so I thought I might find a solution after removing the pedal cranks. So does that mean I can't buy a spindle only . Anyway if I get new pedals I'd have to remove crank arms
Best thing that you can do for now is nothing, just take some photos and show us what is wrong, your description makes no sense.
If you mean that you have a wobbly pedal, you can just take it off and fit a new one.
Photos first please.
 
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soundwave

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May 23, 2015
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you need to remove the pedals if that is the problem you will just make it 10X worse getting them off if you remove the crank arm.


you only get service kits for expensive ones as not much point if you can replace them for 20 quid.

i use these on my bike.

and this is a upgrade kit fook that lol. :eek:
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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You don't need to touch the pedals. It's your bottom bracket that needs attention. Remove both sides of the crank, like you're trying to do, but use the crank extractor tool, then you'll have access to the BB. The two sides are a taper fit onto the bottom bracket. Take some photos of each side, so that we can see what type it is. You might need another tool to remove it.

You have a Sanyo torque sensor, so it wouldn't surprise me if your BB is non-standard regarding the length - maybe this one:
 
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Deleted member 33385

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Taking out bottom brackets on old bikes can be extremely hard - it took me hours when I was converting my Dahon Helios P8. The chainwheel wouldn't come off either - broke (threaded both crank extractor and chainwheel threads)... So, out of options, I consulted with the extremely old and wise bike shop sage guy, who gave me solid gold advice: "If I may make a suggestion", he said "Hammer it over a butt". I had to hammer at the frame near the bracket for near an hour (with breaks), while the bottom bracket was resting on a vertical spike on the floor (I improvised using a broken crank extractor part, sticking out of an exactly the right sized hole for it, made in a horizontal plank of wood). I thought I was going to have a heart attack with all that hammering. It came out, eventually. If oil is old enough, it turns into a sort of glue.
 
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mikeconnect

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 3, 2020
344
9
Warrington , Cheshire
Taking out bottom brackets on old bikes can be extremely hard - it took me hours when I was converting my Dahon Helios P8. The chainwheel wouldn't come off either - broke (threaded both crank extractor and chainwheel threads)... So, out of options, I consulted with the extremely old and wise bike shop sage guy, who gave me solid gold advice: "If I may make a suggestion", he said "Hammer it over a butt". I had to hammer at the frame near the bracket for near an hour (with breaks), while the bottom bracket was resting on a vertical spike on the floor (I improvised using a broken crank extractor part, sticking out of an exactly the right sized hole for it, made in a horizontal plank of wood). I thought I was going to have a heart attack with all that hammering. It came out, eventually. If oil is old enough, it turns into a sort of glue.
Here's hoping I don't need to go that far . Just waiting fir extractor tool to come next week
 

mikeconnect

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 3, 2020
344
9
Warrington , Cheshire
You don't need to touch the pedals. It's your bottom bracket that needs attention. Remove both sides of the crank, like you're trying to do, but use the crank extractor tool, then you'll have access to the BB. The two sides are a taper fit onto the bottom bracket. Take some photos of each side, so that we can see what type it is. You might need another tool to remove it.

You have a Sanyo torque sensor, so it wouldn't surprise me if your BB is non-standard regarding the length - maybe this one:
Thanks VFR. I'll check that out when my extractor tool arrives.
 

mikeconnect

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 3, 2020
344
9
Warrington , Cheshire
Use a crank extractor as soundwave says. Be very careful to have the inner pusher fully unscrewed before you thread the device onto the crank arms, and then to thread it on to the arms as far as you can. Then you can tighten the inner and do the actual extraction. If the extractor is not threaded deeply into the crank arms you can easily strip the thread.
I've just received crank tool. Before I begin what's the inner pusher plz?
 

sjpt

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Jun 8, 2018
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What's the inner pusher plz vfr
Excellent video in the post above. I think that should make clear what the inner pusher is; I see it's proper name is spindle driver.

Repeating what I said before (so you can learn by my previous mistakes) ...
One thing the video did not stress early on (around the 1 min mark) was to slacken off the spindle driver before screwing the entire tool into the crank arm; it was already appropriately in the unscrewed position. It did mention it later around the 5 min mark.

After doing a removal the spindle driver will be in the tightened position. If you forget that, or only loosen it off a bit, when you go to do the next removal you will only be able to screw the main body of the extractor in a very short way into the crank arm, and will strip the thread on the crank arm when you tighten the spindle driver.